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Well less than 2 month and my alternator died again. Only indication was the bouncing tach needle, oh and dying on the side of the road!!

So far:

I have checked the battery and switched it with another in my garage.. No joy, both at ~11.45 volts even with the car running

Replaced the belt.. No joy but it needed it anyways

Started the car and crawled under to test the alternator directly, multi-meter on the frame and hot lead directly on red wire post on the alternator. ~11.45 Volts :D

So it looks like my new alternator was a dud, can anyone think of anything else it could be that kills an alternator??

Does a 1999 V8 have a voltage regulator or is it integrated into the alternator?

Replacement part was the cross-referenced Catera 120Amp unit. Has anyone gotten just a bad replacement part like this before??

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Check the resistance from the engine to the battery negative terminal with your multimeter, check from a number of points, anything threaded into the block is good. Let us know what you find.

Also does the dash alt. light come on? As stupid as this sounds it could be the bulb in the dash is burned out. This would cause the alt. to not charge...

Edited by 97-Esprit V8
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As Paul stated, check the bulb in the dash. It's an integral part of the charging system and if it's not working the alternator will fail again.

Does the light come on when you turn the key to the on position before you start the car?

1995 S4s

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Update for today...

Dash light was definitely blown out. Replaced with the one next to it for testing and when the key was turned to aux the light came on. When I started the car the light came on and stayed on, when revving the engine it would blink but at idle it stay's on. I have ordered replacement bulbs for the entire gauge cluster so i have spares and fresh ones in all locations.

Pulled out the alternator again as I was still not getting anywhere 14.4volts at idle. Have another one to throw in tomorrow. Anyone have a good pic of the gauge pod tell tales, seems I have a few I have never seen come on...

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Check to make sure you have good ground from the engine to the battery (check resistance) before firing it up with the other alternator. Also make sure you have the D+ wire connected correctly. (not sure if that is the terminal on the alt.) but the small wire that runs to the alternator.

Whom ever came up with the bulb inline with the alternator circuit should be :D

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Checked the resistance today. Looks good, all points tested from above the car went to 0.000. Going to keep testing while under the car to check the stock ground points and area around the alternator etc.

Anyone ever put a grounding kit or additional grounds to the battery?? Given the car has no real body grounds would adding some additional grounds like a dedicated one from the alternator bolt and a couple more on the block going straight to the battery negative be beneficial??

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Dave, if this is the Caddy alternator all you should need to replace is the diode/bush pack (about $25 off eBay)

Paddle Faster, I hear Banjos!
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Dave there is no mystery on your dashboard. Some tell -tales are just the same as others , but for different markets (handbrake/P-symbol ; brake-pad/brake attention-light , and so on.. ) others are just the exhaust warnings (catalyst) for japan and some of your 52 US-States.

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to name the things if I see them, that's what I call integrity..

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  • 1 month later...

HI All

I have a alternator problem as well. I didnt run the car for a few weeks and forgot to hook up the drip battery charger. I recharged the battery and car started fine. the alternator light went on and it stays on . I turned call off and started again- same thing. then I went for a run. seemed to run very well with no issues -even as I turned on lights, ac etc.

Does anyone know why the light remains on? is it a battery/alternator or other issue?

thanks

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