free hit
counters
1986 S3 N/A Project - Page 2 - Esprit 'Project & Restoration' Room - The Lotus Forums Jump to content
slewthy

1986 S3 N/A Project

Recommended Posts

Just done my boot out, got some boot carpet from woolies, did the lot for under 50quid, including buying a hot glue gun (priceless). Camera doesn't do it justice, honestly you'd be hard pushed to see the joins.

post-3856-1243625146_thumb.jpg

post-3856-1243625178_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Upgrade today to remove Google ads and support TLF.

Looks great Tony. Got my carpet from woolies also. Used a sewing machine for the joins and high temperature contact adhesive (also from Woolies).

What are the white dots in your boot? I recognise the ones at the front, to attach the ignition system box. Not sure how best to do this myself - mine arn't in yet. The originals were behind the carpet, not very useful. Suppose I couls use blackened washers and bolts? Or black bolt covers, if they exist. Or maybe I should just use the usual shiny ones and be functional. Any thoughts?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

the white dots are st-st cap screws and washers which I polished. Had a similar dilema, do I hide the fasteners or show them off, but seen as these cars are only driven by poofs and show offs (according to Raymondo on Ashes to Ashes, BBC1 Monday), I thought I'd match the fasteners to those I've used in detailing my engine

post-3856-1243632602_thumb.jpg

post-3856-1243632695_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

He He He, eeeexcelent!

Totally agree - trying to hide the fasteners is pointless. I'll just put them in.

Fabulous engine bay! Your detailing has set me thinking...

Wondering what date your car is?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That looks really good, so much so I would be interested in borrowing your old set as a template - I can send them back afterwards and will pay postage. My S3 looks like it once had a boot-bag which has long since gone. PM me if thats possible?

Incidentally should there be boards to hide the rear lamp wiring and battery from being visible as I don't have those?

Cheers

Wilf

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Will, I'll gladly send you the old carpets. Yes, there was a board to hide the battery but most of the original had disintegrated but there was enough left to reconstruct fairly accurately. No evidence of a board at the back to cover wiring - carpet just glued here! I'm planning the refit this with velcro - much more useful.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

IT WORKS!!!!!!

Has to post so I could tell someone.

I'll post later about some technical problems I still have but essentially, it starts cold and hot, it idles (sort of) and goes up the rev range well.

After some pre-flight checks - very nervous - took her out onto the estate road. Seems OK, so ventured out onto the main road. Again, no problems. Oil pressue fine.

So, took the next turn to the dual carriageway. AWESOME!!!!! I cant believe how fast this car is.

Didnt push too far and came home after a total of 5 miles. Water temp just starting to creep beyond 60 degrees I guess. No hissing/dripping from engine bay.

I'm chuffed to bits and can't stop smiling.

What now? Go further, see if the water temp stabilises? Or try and get into better tune. Must say, I'm itching to just get out there again.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Excellent news. Keep up the good work and enthusiasm

:)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just went out again - little further this time.

I think I must have had a major air leak before - I tightened the carbs to the inlet manifold a little more and the engine seemed happier at low revs. I think there may still be a leak somewhere as its difficult to keep a low idle and the revs are slow to drop when the throttle is released.

Fans now work as temp reaches about 90 degs, so Otter switch is, infact, fine. Also means I have coolant at the radiator. Heater doesnt seem to get heat though, so I still think I have circulation probs. I wish I had an oil temp gauge as I worry the engine might be overheating without me knowing. I suppose if heat is getting to the Otter switch, things must be OK? Not sure how I can be definate I have no airlocks.

I've renewed the lights also. Outer units had lost their reflective coating, so got new Cibie units from SJs. These were tricky to fit, despite following the guide on LEW. Almost as if the new untis were ever so slightly bigger in the bowl. Same height and diameter though. Just need to wait till dark to adjust alignment. Put some Osram Nightbreaker bulbs in - nice white and quite alot brighter. Also still road legal. I'll try and post some images tonight.

Edited by slewthy

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wilf, had my S3 since 88 and the wiring over the rear light clusters has always been exposed so I'd guess thats how they were supplied. On Slewthy's original photo the carpet panel you can see on the RHS in the boot is the piece that hides the battery, it's bonded to a piece of pressed card that slots in place to cover the battery.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Here are the images of the headlamps. Sorry, only done in daylight at the moment.

Before

IMG_2704.jpg

And with new headlamp and Nightbreaker bulb

IMG_2705.jpg

So far, so good.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well, my S3 is up for its MOT tomorrow.

I've done everything I can think of to help get it through. Only things I'm not sure of is headlamp aim - I've set them up along guidelines I found online but I'm not sue they are right.

Also, emmisions are obviously unknown right now.

I'm still got some way to go regarding tuning. I think I have some fundamental problems regarding an air leak at the carbs - my money is on the connection to the inlet manifold. Looking at the manual, I should have 1.9mm gaps whereas I have tightened too much now. I may have to replace O rings to be certain of a good seal. I think that only then can I really tune properly.

My cooling issues continue. Heater fails to heat. However, the level in the header tank has dropped a fair bit since running the car at the weekend, with no sign of leak, so hopefully its just airlocks which are clearing. Burping hasn't helped up to now.

Accelerator pumps have also been a problem since carb rebuild. i.e. sudden depression of throttle leads to a pause or near stall until revs pick up. I wonder if the new diaphragm is a little stiff - seems a little better perhaps than initially.

So, next job is to take off carbs again, fix accelerator pumps, check idle jets again, take opportunity to replace throttle cable, then try again.

If I can get my act together, I'll put video on youtube of engine idle before and after this.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

FAIL FAIL FAIL!!!!!!!!!

Corroded front brake pipe - St/St/ here I come, earlier than originally planned.

Hydrocarbon emissions too high - Has been misfiring since I got it. Plugs and leads all changed. I need to check timing and, of course re rebuild those carbs. I'm sure thats where most of my issues are.

A few other niggly points which can be fixed in 30mins or so.

I shouldn't be too disappointed really. Does force me to get the engine tune right sooner rather than later.

Re accelerator pump, will be replacing the long spring. Maybe the old one is not enough for the new diaphragm. Dont really want to change the settings there.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well, Carbs examined and missing bits!! Springs and washers and grommets in the idle mixture screws. Might explain some things. Accelerator pump tweaked. Now I need to see if it produces the correct amount of 'squirt'. Should produce 7mls per 20 strokes. Only doing 4mls at moment.

Just replaced the throttle cable - nightmare! Threaded through just fine, no problems there. Removing the old cable from the throttle bar was very difficult though. Mainly because of the difficulty reaching it, upside down, back to front, inside out. Lotus position and then some. :D Done now, greased and ready to go.

Jobs tomorrow are:-

Replace aux belt.

Refit carbs with new manifold grommets.

Start up and tune.

I will need to do a timing check, well, learn how to do it first. Practical classics had a fair guide a few months ago.

Have checked the TDC and cam sprocket markings - line up exactly - phew! :)

Still need to check compression.

Then need to fit new brake pipes.

Oh, and a word of warning, dont take apart the indicator housing unless you REALLY need to - lots of springs and ball bearings in there that are quite keen to get out - aarrgghh! I took it apart. I didnt need to. :D

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The heater not working is probably due to lack of vacuum to work the air direction control flaps.

The vacuum is taken from the inlet manifold to a holder below the left hand rear quarter light, sitting on top of the fuel tank, and then through the interior (above the passenger door) down to the dash to connect to he heater. But it's probably because one of the pipes under the dash has come adrift.

Also, the naturally aspirated cars didn't have a fuel pressure regulator, only the turbos.

Cheers,

John W

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes, I thought maybe vacuum might be the issue. I've checked the area beneath left quater light and it seems OK but I really need to get in there properly to be sure. I've guddled about under the dash quite abit so you're right - a problem is quite likely there.

Yep, pressure reg gone now. No obvious problem without it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

OK, fair day...

New Aux belt fitted. No more squealing!?!

Carbs refitted.

Started first time. No hesitation on acceleration now.

Still very difficult to tune at idle. Timing? Seems to still misfire a little but much less noticable now.

I've taken a vid, mainly for audio before the tune and will redo it after tuning is complete.

Heater now working and I no longer have worries about cooling - seems fine.

So, I might just take it along to the local garage and retest emmisions. See if its any better.

Oh yeah, need to do brakes pipes yet...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just completed the brake line replacement. Total B*tch!!!

Every single union was so corroded, I though at one point they were welded.

Anyway, all off and all new St/St back on. Just need to flush through with new 5.1

Tips for those performing this task.

Set aside more than 2 hours.

Limber up and do some stretches.

Need 17, 15, 13, 10mm spanners. Adjustable grips. Patience.

Do the rear first - easiest by far. The brackets attaching the lines to the caliper can be removed and makes undoing the nuts much easier - put them in the vice.

Front lines difficult. Involves jacking up and turning wheels in and out to aid access. Note that the Manual says NOT to turn wheels back and forth alot as it can blow the gaiters off apparently. The brackets holding them to the calipers are virtually impossible to remove - cant get to the bolt/nut. The lines are infact captive withing the bracket, making the 13mm end inaccessible. This means to remove, apply a 17mm spanner over the outer nut and grip the circular part on the bracket with an adjustable grip. Will undo then, albeit with some force.

Access is difficult for the bracket attaching on the front bulkhead. I think one of those ratchet spanners would have been good here. Dont have one - I have skinned knuckles instead.

Fitting the new lines was a piece of p*ss in comparison - 5min job each!

Nice and shiny now - should impress MOT man.?.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yep - he must have been impressed because,

PASS PASS PASS !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Cruised the emissions this time and all other points sorted.

So, finally, I feel justified washing the car tomorrow. Obviously, then it will rain. Still, it will stop me polishing it!

Seriously though, I need to t cut, or similar, all the rear panels that have got fine scratches from me leaning over tinkering with the engine etc. Thats despite using a cover?!?

Going to use Meguiars from now on.

Oh, and gearbox oil - Redline MT 90 seems best for the Citroen box it seems.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Trevor. Cant open Hotmail right now - I'm sure the pics are in amongst the other 100+ emails waiting, growing!

Took car out for some fuel today. Odd thing - was at 1/4 full. Filled rhs tank until wouldnt take any more - 25litres. When I set off, gauge initially read full - 4/4. After 20mins, it reads 1/2.

OK, so the tanks are equalising. Does this seem slow? Also, does 25L = 1/4 total? Would suggest tanks are 50L each.

Anyway, first time out on some windy roads. VERY different driving experience compared to D/C ways and compared to my FWD Audi.

I found it quite difficult to take corners at any speed whilst feeling in control. i.e I didnt feel in control. Is this normal when moving to a RWD car?

Ran fine, brakes good and temp never exceeded 85degs or so.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What are your tyre pressures? should be 25 psi rear 21 front (from memory) if they are filled to 35 psi which most garages seem to do then it does feel out of sorts in the corners...... worth a check.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

[Anyway, first time out on some windy roads. VERY different driving experience compared to D/C ways and compared to my FWD Audi.

I found it quite difficult to take corners at any speed whilst feeling in control. i.e I didnt feel in control. Is this normal when moving to a RWD car?]

Handling is where these cars should excel,from how you describe it could be down to one thing (as already stated,tyre pressure) or a combination of several.

Are the tyres all one brand ,and recommended for S3?

What are the shock absorbers like?not uncommon to pass mot and still be naff

Are left-hand bends worse than right-hand or vice versa?

Wheel alignment and tracking

Not having driven your model I dont know how a good one should handle,but when mine was on the road the cornering was the best part of it,

Trevor

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Took car out today to Oswestry today and felt better - its that learning curve again, I think.

tyre pressures as recommended 25 21

Pirelli tyres P600, P6000 all new - scrubbing in?

Shocks do look shocking as in previous pics but seem to work OK.

I do think its me infact. Still, costs nothing to learn and improve does it?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...