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1986 S3 N/A Project - Page 4 - Esprit 'Project & Restoration' Room - The Lotus Forums Jump to content
slewthy

1986 S3 N/A Project

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Well, I had a day off aswell today!

Lots of progress!

Here is the chassis, painted and curing.

IMG_3539.jpg

And a side view...

IMG_3540.jpg

So whilst that was setting, I set about some more dismantling.

Brake master cyling and clutch master off.

Light pod motors out - dont know if offsid one will work again.

Then turned my attention to the inside.

OMG!!!

IMG_3538.jpg

So thats the binnacle and dash out then!

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Well done Simon. Chassis looks great. That wiring looks a nightmare make sure its well labeled and the labels are stuck. I am going to get a dymo to make the labels least that way they can stay on behind the dash for future work if needed. Have you decided if you will rebuild the engine yet?

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That was the worst bit of it all - making notes and labels.

Like the idea of dymo-ing some labels. What the binnacle really needs is the wiring to be rationalised. Seem to remember someone posting an image of this on the site - essentially has 2 large mutliwire connectors. Would be quite alot of work though.

Re the engine, I had sort of wanted to ignore that for a while.

It had a rebuild about 4000 miles ago - so I dont think it needs that again.

It was running quite well but not perfectly - wouldn't be surprised to find a manifold crack (gulp) and I was planning to take it to a garage to be properly assessed and tuned. Cylinder 4 had a slightly lower compression than the others but not drastically so.

So, I was thinking, give it a clean, do whatever you do to valves re adjustment ( skill and knowledge somewhere further up my learning curve), consider servicing the water pump, cambelt tensioner, cambelt and see how I go.

I do have an engine crane now so removal at a later date wont be so bad.

Dont know - what do you guys think?

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Cracking effort Simon,

The chassis looks well painted mate, as for the engine it may be worth checking the water pump, tensioner and so on while the engine is out. If the engine was running fairly well before the bump i would just service it and clean it and inspect it yourself as there are loads of people on the forum that can tell you what to look for to inspect yourself. I would not advise to take it to a workshop. If it aint broke dont fix it!

Just get it tuned when the car is finsihed!

Good luck and keep up the good work regards danny

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Arrrrrrrrrgggggggggghhhhhhhhhhhhhh!

PEDAL BOX!!!!!

There must be a better way.

Removed the steering column by undoing the upper UJ without too much bother, after realising the splined end is essentially captive in the UJ until the bolt is fully removed.

Then onto the pedal box. Closest 2 bolts came out OK although not exactly easy.

Furthest 2 bolts virtually impossible to get out due to restricted space. - only by cutting the spanner in 2 as previously suggested and then by turning the bolt 1/16 of a turn at a time using fingertips.

Almost needs access holes cut in boot area? Might experiment with this using my old shell.

Anyway, done in the end.

Managed to salvage the LHS light pod lift motor by exchanging bent parts with the burnt out one that came with the car.

Next is seats out and search for those body to chassis mounting bolts.

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OK, seats out - good condition generally.

Most of the body to chassis bolts are done.

Now I need to disconnect the fuel lines and water pipes.

I have to drain my tanks. Jerry can plus a pump of some kind?

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You do know that, if you remove the heater plenum cover in the front compartment there's a hole in the bulkhead which lets you get to the front, inner bolt holding in the pedal box. Didn't realize this until after I removed the pedal box but would not have got it back in without it.

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I did think that would be possible and infact, removed the heater cover, but obviously in my box-rage, I didnt see it! I'll look again.

If there is one, I feel some vindication in having managed its removal without it.

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All chassis bolts removed.

RHS Front suspension bolt needed removing to clear the chassis. RHS didn't

Tanks drained using a

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Binnacle wiring rationalisation has begun. Not possible to reduce it all to just 2 connectors, but once I've bound it all, I'll post a picture. Essentially what I've done is make the centre instrument cluster and each side pod modular from each other and the main loom, without having to undo all the wires from the instruments. Its going to be a 5 minute job to put them back in. I'm also going to do the same to other parts of the loom to make it modular. I intend to upgrade the window wiring first so this will be done much later on.

Is this the pictures you were thinking of ???

IMG_0895750x562.jpg

IMG_0790750x562.jpg

As it happens when you get into it you can remove some of the duplications in the connectors (to reduce the pin count) and then re-fit them in the pod.

I used these connectors as they are cheap, polarised, 15A rating per contact and come in a number of ways.

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=848-874

One thing I would recommend is that you drill out the bolts welded into the pod brackets on the dash and permanently fit bolts onto the pod instead, this way you can just bolt the pod straight onto the dash. Otherwise you will need to remove all the instruments from the pod to get to the nuts to then remove the pod which is a pain.

When I fit the alphanumeric display onto the Mutant in the next few weeks this is exactly what I will be doing.

Hilly

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If you're going to do a relay job on the window lift motors you will be cutting at least one wire when you do it. I've just done this and found on my car the wiring colours pretty consistent, and not too hard to push new wires through the door grommets so if you do cut wires you should be able to get them back through without too much trouble. the one to watch out for is the steel plate supporting the door hinge, it's two plates with space in between so pushing wiring through that can be hit and miss.

Is that an old pic Hilly? doesn't look like the electic column...

good work, I too will be rationalising binnacle wiring soon ish, so I'll watch with interest.

cheers,

simon

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Bit of an update.

Fuel tanks are now out.

Tip on removal - flip up and then turn this way. The seatbelt reels dont need to be removed. The main obstacle to removing either side is the very stiff fuel inlet tube.

DSCN1709.jpg

Here is the foam on the bottom

DSCN1710.jpg

You can see where its been sat on the bodyshell and is still clean.

Of note is that the foam is about 1inch thich and the grime and discolouration has only penetrated 1/2 way in. I therefore suggest that this offers some protection to the tank?

Here is the base of the tank after foam removed. Not too bad eh?

DSCN1711.jpg

So, all cleaned up and given 2 thinnish coats of POR 15

DSCN1714.jpg

Yup, pretty happy with that.

FYI, 2 coats on 2 tanks took less than 1/4 of a 500ml tin of POR15. Should have got a smaller tin!

As soon as the body is off (when oh when?) the engine will go into the garage and I'll start to strip and restore the susp and steering rack. Still considering the option of repairing the bodyshell. Cant decide....

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Good work Simon

The tanks look great. The foam pad on the bottom is chip foam and you can get it at any upholstery shop. I got a large enough sheet to do both tanks for

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BODY OFF!!!!

Might not seem like much but this has been abit of a stumbling block for me. Mainly organising willing help and waiting for reasonable weather conditions.

Here is how I(we) did it.

Firstly, I bribed 2 friends with the promise of beer - worked well.

Engine crane at the front, suspending the body from a bar placed beneath the chassis mounting points - strongest point I reckoned. This lifted the front clear of the front chassis frame.

I had already placed the rear on jacks to gain some height and with the front suspended, it was possible for 2 people to lift the back clear of the engine, one at each wheel arch. It would have been possible to place another bar at this point making lifting easier but I didn't have one!

Third person then pulled the chassis (minus brakes) backwards out of the way using my wife's car as a tractor. That way, the lifting people only had to lift and not move. Also, the highest point - gearstick - was able to travel within the tunnel - otherwise the body would have needed lifting much higher.

2 other high points of note are the top ends of the front dampers - foul the footwells of the shell.

I now have a hiatus of a week (long time when you're itching to get at it) whilst I'm oncall and can't do anything.

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Well done Simon a great bit of progress. Theres nothing like getting over a major hrdle which opens up a whole variety of work to get on with.

Any pictures. Would be interested in also seeing some shots of the damaged chassis and undershell. Your now putting me to shame as im concentrating on the engine conversion and not the restoration.

Keep up the good work. May be up your way near christmas to see friends in Handforth so may have to drop by if your free.

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So, its been a while since I posted here - ref "its all gone abit quiet here" - Wayne, I bet you wish you hadn't said that now!!!

Anyway, weather and work plus lack of light has been a major obstacle but as previously said, body is off now, exposing this

DSCN1717.jpg

and then, engine lifted out...

DSCN1766.jpg

Note snow, front end work progressing. Also note the discrepancy at the front due to the impact at the front nearside.

So, to be fairly brief, I've gone from poorly suspension components like this

DSCN1774.jpg

to restored and replaced front as so

DSCN1772.jpg

I know, nothing ground breaking here, trying to keep things fairly original, barring bushes.

I've also done the steering rack. Just need to fill it with something suitable. Gear oil I think.

All of the chassis tubes are out, cleaned and back in.

Gearchange on the way to being done.

Offside front awaiting resto, then onto the rear.

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Simon

Great shots i see your steaming ahead. I am starting to trail behind now! Not been in the garage for month! Hopefully back on track next week. Any pictures of the shell.respect.gif

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