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esprit s2

Gear problems

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Evening all.

Just been to Billericay and back and for some bizarre reason me gears have started to play up.

Can't get reverse without grinding it in (not just little grinding - BIG grinding)

1st wouldn't engage unless I really pushed hard.

3rd grinding on downchanges when slowing down.

Don't know wheather this is a coincidence but clutch pedal has become a little floppy at the top.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Just when i think I'm getting on top of everything this goes and happens. SOB!!! :)

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First of all don't panic! Normally something quite simple.

Have you checked the level of the clutch master cylinder fluid? If there's a leak this will lower and gear change will get progressively worse

If you find it low, try adding in some fluid, if the gear change gets better again then you've found the problem.

Of course that doesn't help working out where the fluid is going......

The fluid will strip paint, so check all around the master cylinder in the front bonnet. If you see areas of rippled, or melted paint, then that would suggest a master cylinder failure.

Alternatively take the rubber bung plug out of the rear boot, and check all the around the slave cylinder. If you can see trails of fresh fluid, then your slave cylinder has gone. If in doubt cover the whole area in talcum powder, any fresh fluid leaks will leave an obvious trail if you leave overnight.if it was gearbox (i.e. mega bucks) it would normally go "all of a sudden" not gradually.

Good luck!!!!

Above all don't fret,

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Haven't checked it yet Mat, will do in the morning.

Thanks for replying so quickly, it has calmed me down a bit as I thought it might be a megga bucks repair!

And breathe....................

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I'd go with mat, fluid loss, if it's caused the system to sucj air in you may need to bleed it fully, but it's relatively simple and all you'll need is a person to press the pedal repeatedly, a short length of hose, a cannister to cat the old fluid and a litre of nice fresh DOT4 or DOT 5.1 fluid.

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I have noticed I have a similar probelm on my S2 with reverse gear only - but it only seems to happen at the end of a journey (usually when I need to reverse in my garage).

Its fine when I start the car up and am moving out of the garage complex, so I would have to assume its temperature that is causing it. Like Paul, when I do finally manage to get the gear lever back, it makes a grinding crunch and the gear will not be fully engaged.

All other gears are fine.

I will look for leaks but still think it is heat related which I find odd. Could this be a fluid issue as well?

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^ That sounds like the red hose, have you still got it??

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Change the red hose, it's a no brainer. You can even get one from Pipelines Motorsport at a discount and it looks identical but is braided for just over

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Neil

You've not got the red hose, Malc put a new braided one in.

I had previous issues with this. Its caused by slop in the gearchange mechanism. You can adjust it out under the car at the cross gate lever attachment, but you'll find that you'll then struggle for fifth instead. The reason its heat related is that as the engine compartment heats up, the metal linkages expand slightly, and the crossgate connection is going slightly out of adjustment. It's not helped by the current hot weather?

Here's a pic from under your gearchange lever.

IMG_0614.jpg

There was an awful lot of excess play where the red arrow is, caused by wear in the linkages further back in the car. The yoke is worn around the ball connector too. Only solution to that one is a new gearchange unit. I've only seen one on eBay in 3 years.

The linkages themselves are not difficult to renew. Give me a call when you have time and I'll give you more info on all this.

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Might be wrong but don't think so. SJ do a rose jointed conversion for the crossgate lever connection, but I think that is more likely to be a bushing kit.

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The SJ parts are just a rose joint connection for the cross gate cable and a Stainless rod for the same part.

Too expensive for what it is and also with the wrong measures...I think Matt Watts had a little problem with it.

Cheers

Giorgio

Edited by ghe67

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Thanks for the reply Mat - how cool is that, a reply with a photo from my own car!

I will give you a ring tonight!

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Hi Guys,

Along similar lines I've had problems slipping it into 1st gear, sometimes it goes in, and sometimes it crunches like a good'n, however it makes me look like a right spanner when I leave anywhere! I've changed the 3 bushes to the rear but does anyone know how to get to the gear selector bush underneath the cross gate? I was thinking of coming in from the top as I couldn't see any access to it from underneath (I may be missing something), but when I removed the cross gate fixings then there wasn't enough access to get to the bolt and nut! I've been racking my brains and it's beginning to hurt!

Cheers

Sorry guys found on another Topic in the forum that you need 3 double jointed hands and patience of a saint, plus the words "hardest job I've ever done!" was also branded about..............Great!

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Ok, will give that a go tonight. Thanks Andy.

Any recommendations on brand of clutch/brake fluid?

Castrol LMA is a great choice - DOT 4/5 and lots of guys run it in their track cars with great success.

Make sure the clutch pedal is adjusted properly too. Sometimes its just that.

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The cross gate is the cable linkage, not the rod one.The rod linkage moves the selectors backwards and forwards to select the individual gears...the crossgate cable moves the bellcrank on the gearbox to shift the selectors, er, "across the gate"..hence the name. The cable adjusts at the gearbox end, where it fits on to the bracket holding it to the bellhousing. IF...and it's a big IF(!)...the nuts on the cable outer can be moved and aren't solid with corrosion, you can adjust the cable to enable all the gears to be selected. Always assuming that you don't have a huge amount of lost motion due ot wear on the bellcrank pivot, the pin through the bellcrank and crossgate cable and the pin that goes into the gear selector shaft....wear in those places is the usual cause of problems, so ought to be addressed. You can get new bushes for the bellcrank pivot...the pin into the selector shaft can be built up with a spot of weld and filed to shape...and you can enlarge the hole through the cable end and the bellcrank and bush that, too. If you can't get reverse, remember that reverse selection requires the crossgate cable to push the bellcrank as far as it will...not a natural thing for cables to do, push......and moving the cable outer towards the gearbox gearlinkage will help it push a bit further. It's all a balance between getting 1 and 2, and 5 and reverse...as these are the end limits of the crossgate movement.

The rod linkage can give problems selecting individual gears due to lost motion in the joints and pivots. A good thing to do is to get someone to engage all the gears whilst you lay under the back and watch what's going on..and try moving the levers and bellcranks a bit further to see if it makes any difference. This takes a bit of leverage!!

Remember, it's always better to get a good diagnosis than to blast away with the shotgun technique in the hope that something will work.....

I should know.

I'm the bloke who dismantled his gearbox for a noisy wheel bearing........(!)

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