free hit
counters
Timing Belt Change - S1 - Engine/Ancilliaries - The Lotus Forums Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
winners

Timing Belt Change - S1

Recommended Posts

After chatting to Matt and Ian at the Lotus Show I was convinced that the changing of the timing belt on my S1 was a fairly straight forward process, not as difficult as I had been lead to believe. However the 40 mins Ian stated may be beyond me!!

As my only experience of timing belts is limited to Ford engines, and bizarely a Fiat X1/9 has anyone got any tips before I unleash my some what limited mechanical skills on an unsupecting Lotus.

Thanks in advance.

Mark

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Upgrade today to remove Google ads and support TLF.
Guest bharper

get help from someone that has done it before!!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Mark,

From what I understand, have read and from looking at the engine it seems a relatively straight forward job. I have almost had the courage to dive in and learn on the job. As long as one is methodical all should be fine, right?. But being as getting it wrong will result in unforgiving consequences I've elected to be an observer and learn how to do it. So very soon I will be Tony K's pupil in the matter of timing belt changes and a few other things.

I've always subscribed too: 'If in doubt don't do it as assumption is the mother of all f**k ups'

With that being said I'm sure I'm being just a little over cautious.

Good Luck.

Gavin

...there's an S1 just come on ebay (USA) where the seller says he screwed up the timing marks and thinks he bent the valves - thus his reason for selling.

Edited by GavinS1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
did the pully look ok gavin?

Hi Brian

Not been home yet, hopefully be home by the 6th. Work, work,work - you know how that goes. Will shoot you an email then but I am sure it will work out great. Thanks again.

Gavin

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

do some stretching excersises before you start!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I am doing timing belt this weekend.

Couple of tips.

Use starter motor to loosen crank nut.

I tend to remove tensioner to check it for wear. I did give it a full overhaul last time so it should be OK

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Main thing is to line up the timing marks of the pulleys at TDC before taking off the old belt and make sure they are still aligned after fitting the new belt. And turn over the engine at least 2 revs before trying to start up to make sure there is no clanking of valves against pistons. In fact do this as soon as the new belt is on and tensioned.

You will spend a lot of time lying on the engine and a lot of time lying under it and a lot of time moving between the two positions.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Putting a cushion on top of the engine reduces the pain...and something soft to kneel on in the back..plus an old blanket over the rear to prevent kicking the paintwork whilst clambering in!! Marking the distributor /oil pump drive pulley is very useful, it's BOUND to move during the process..I've marked mine on the rear face level with the auxiliary housing. You can also use small paint marks on the pulleys and cambelt before you remove the belt...then carefully transfer the marks from the old belt to the new...and line up these marks with the ones on the pulleys, and it'll be right. Set crankshaft to TDC before you begin, having loosened the pulley first. When you fit the cambelt, remember it has tobe tight from the exhaust cam to the crankshaft pulley, between the cams, and on to the auxiliary pulley..around the tensioner and back to the crankshaft is where the slack is. Don't turn the engine at all until you're confident all the marks line up...TDC you can get from the flywheel, rather than grovel, and the two dots on the camshafts pointing at each other...the only other variable is the auxiliary pulley, which is why I suggest marking it and the paint mark technique. Can't have too many belts...or braces, for that matter. Change the V belts, too, whilst you're in agony mode anyway.. As mentioned, inspect the tensioner..I always dismantle mine, never managed to make the 4mm pin work as the hole is under one of the washers on a retaining nut. Just unscrew the spring adjuster...ah...does the S1 have a spring adjuster? don't know...whatever, if it does you can unscrew it all the way so that the thing comes apart..if you don't disturb the locking nut too much, then you can get an idea of where the adjustment should be on re-assembly. The 4mm pin works fine for that!

It's not difficult, just tedious, painful, and unforgiving. Check the snubber gaps, too...and don't leave the tension too slack, as the belt can jump teeth...ask me how I know!!!!

Edited by molemot

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  


×