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chargecooler pump this cant be right is it? - Induction/Turbo/Chargecooler/Manifold/Exhaust - The Lotus Forums Jump to content
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Jimjitsu

chargecooler pump this cant be right is it?

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pulled out my chargecooler pump and to my surprise all the fins are still there : / doesn't move for toffees though the impeller just spins and does not spin the fins. My question is they are not all like this are they??? cos if they are no wonder the things fail

DSC03309.jpgDSC03308.jpg

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At least it failed like that. It could be a lot worse, the fins brake off and go into the piepwork and then you end up having to try and account for them all by taking everything to bits.

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Mine looks a lot emptier than that. B)

Soon after buying the car I replaced the impellor with one of PUK's whizzy polyurethane ones. It lasted about six months, before shedding various lumps of itself.

I've gone over to an electric pump now. (The leccy pump I used was liberated from a Vauxhall Omega Diesel - it's part of the heater circuit - and cost about a tenner from the local scrappy)

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They have these in the sailing boats I was on as well - same problem, the rubber fins are vulcanised onto the key'd shaft and it's this bond that breaks down causing the shaft to spin and the vanes to stay static.

As mentioned above, yours is the best case scenario as you have no rubbish to flush out of the system.

Also it looks as if the oil seals are OK on the oil pump becuase there is no real evidence of emulsified oil in there.

Why they put them on sailing boats I dont know either - we had to do a hour long repair at sea with ours when the circ pump failed, as part of the engineering kit on board they had 3 spare pump impellers at


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I had the same problem with mine. Fins looked in great condition but they were no longer attached and rotating with the centre shaft.

Electric pump has been installed ever since!

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so JIMI, finally you have got out the problem!

let us know your really impressions about the performance of your S4, when you have your cooler ON

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hehe yeah its a real git to get out already have my electric one fitted having some problems with air in it at the moment once that's sorted ill let you know the difference between broken CC pump as that's all i have ever had and working electric one :)

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Yup, sound advice.

Also try pulsing the pump a few times, high volume pumps can self cavitate (ie get air locks) becuase of the turbulance they create when bleeding, that can help force air out. If you have somrething like a 7.2v battery from an RC car or something you can use that to slow the pump down and reduce turbulance whilst bleeding.

Finally you can try pulling the pipes at the front on the aluminium pipe to the chargecooler to give it a hand.

Thats a common place for air to be trapped in.

I must admit I was going to add a simple screw bleed valve in the system to help.


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jon but now you are talking about the electric pump chargecooler mod......at the last the you will not fit a new impellor but directly you will fit a electrical pump as on LEW section post about....????????????????

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Looks like my poly impellor from PUK has failed too, I'll be going electric shortly :hrhr:


88 Esprit NA, 89 Esprit Turbo SE, Evora, Evora S, Evora IPS, Evora S IPS, Evora S IPS SR, Evora 400, Elise S1, Elise S1 111s, Evora GT410 Sport

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Looks like my poly impellor from PUK has failed too, I'll be going electric shortly :hrhr:

So both you and GKP have had it fail , thought my CC was not as cold as it has been, mine might be next then :thumbsup:

So much for "This is a new design that will virtually last forever."


1982 DeLorean DMC 12 #16327, 1999 Lotus Elise, 1998 Lotus Esprit GT3 #2272, 2011 Lotus Evora S, 2013 Lotus Exige S,2016 Lotus Evora 400

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The CC refill and bleed is a pain. I did mine from empty this weekend with the double rad S300 style setup at the front. With the Electric pump only the ignition needs to be on rather than the engine. I tried following the LEW guide for the process but i find it gets a bit muddled in the middle and I dont think Kato was using an electric pump for that guide.

As has been stated its critical that the electric pump starts with a head of water with no air or it just doesnt seem to work. I've managed to get the system were there was no noise coming from the pump caused by air bubbles having the water re-circulating therough a bucket after about fifteen minutes. But trying to keep air out when reconnecting the pipe to the CC resulted in air bubles in the system that dont seem to want to come out of the top of the CC like you'd expect.

I just hope that the last of the air will filter out over time once I get the car running agin.

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It should self bleed through that nut on top of the CC body.

The later cars are a little easier as when the main system pressurises it forces the air out through the bleed connection pipe :hrhr:


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Here's an idea for ensuring to get the air out of the system from first fill.

I mounted my electric pump on the lowest chassis tube directly under the c/c. I also made a "T" piece for a 3mm bleed hose about 15cms before the entry hose to the electric pump. That bleed hose is cabled tied to the c/c hose running up to about the same height as the c/c.

After filling with the bleed hose unplugged I just watch until the coolant is dribbling out of the bleed hose. Refit the plug and all ready to go.


DanR

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Jim non news about your chargecooler work?......we're waiting your new performance comparison ........

changed my impellor with the new PUK one.....the genuine impellor old impellor WAS FINE ! mah !!:popo:

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