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Hi,

Did some more adjusting to mine again tonight and I can really feel an improvement in gear selection, and most was down to adjustment with the translator. I played around with the stabiliser rod on the translator and got the gear lever lining up perfectly in the neutral position and able to select 3rd and 4th without any effort at all. 5th was no problem and the only thing I had to do was adjust the inhibitor to allow 1st and 2nd to select ok.

After all that it seems to be selecting nicely, the gear lever travels more to the left to select 1st and 2nd, but feels smoother than it was before, a lot easier going in gear. I haven't taken it for a spin yet, I'll do that tomorrow, but hopefully every thing is working better now, but I did try the selection with the engine running and taking up drive in all gears.

It seems from my conclusion that spending some time to fine tune the translator can really improve the gear selection, there isn't much plus or minus in setting up, I only moved one of the ends a few turns and it totally altered the gear lever selecting the gates, so you can tell if you have set it uo wrong. Aim to get 3rd and 4th selcting ok and the rest should follow, this is what I've just down and it seems to have worked.

Owen.

Edited by OwenGT3
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when I read the manual for setting up it spoke about setting the gear stick at 7.5 dgrees when setting the translator but it difficult to set and do they mean 7.5 left to right or back and front, this could be crucial. On mine the force to push across to entre first and second is stiff but a lightish push from second to third works well and into forth is ok.

Where should the gear lever be brfore setting the translator. It would help if one knew what adjustments change what.

Dave

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Taking the boot floor off is mandatory, either that or make a cut out in it for servicing needs.

Disconnect the rods at the back.

Leave the gearstick in neutral (3rd-4th plane)

Ensure the gearbox is in the same plane which is easy to see.

Lay a piece of metal or better still clear plastic with 4mm marked out on it so you can see, now adjust the tie rod to length so you get the 4mm offset.

Now adjust the rod ends to suit the gearbox translator - this is where you might get someone to hold your stick (oo err) to stop it moving.

Those rods should just slip in nice and easy - that should be it - some very slight fine tuning might help.

It pays to get somoene to change gear in the car slowly and watch the translator, a mis adjusted linkage will pull and try and bend the cable or the metalwork - that is wrong and will need to be relieved by adjusting the rods and in effect your neutral gearstick position.

Extra blurb here :

http://www.lotusespritworld.com/EGuides/ET.../Gearshift.html

IF the bushes at the front are damaged as I mentioned above the cables will have play in them and setting the car up will be very hard indeed.

You can often tell by taking the roof out, standing up in the car and wiggling the stick gently with 1 foot whilst watching the cables - ideally the slightest movement in the stick should cause the cables to move, that's rarely the case, but there still should be not a lot of play.

Good luck

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I have now taken a sneak look at the cabin gear lever mechanisum, dry as a bone and little or no slack. Loads a grease, gave it a good wiggle. Then I rechecked the translator, one cable was ok the other was way out, about 3 mm. Re adjusted it and took it for a run.

What a difference, holy S--t, its brilliant, who would of though lubrication would be so beneficial and make such a difference.

Well worth the time to adjust and get it right, changes are smooth, no longer like a coggy box, difficult to shift, I can now concentrate on driving not finding a gear.

Thanks guys for all the imput, well worth it, its a pleasure to drive.

Dave

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  • 1 year later...

How do you, or with what do you accurately measure the "4mm" offset as illustrated in the LEW guide or is just accurate guess work ? and then fine tuning.

Life is like a sewer, what you get out of it, depends on what you put into it. (Tom Leahrer)

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when i did the clutch we refurbeb the gesr trsnslator, sailorbob (dererk) gave me a great site to order the ends off and i just cut a stainless 10mm bolt down to size (usig the one that came off for size) put the new ends on some grease and its been great

It's Oogies turn to boogie

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It's all new, or was a year ago, it's been working, but not fantastic. This is just fine tuning and I can't see an accurate method of measuring the 4mm offset because they are at different heights.

Life is like a sewer, what you get out of it, depends on what you put into it. (Tom Leahrer)

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OK still can't figure an accurate way to measure the 4mm offset, but.

I'm getting closer, the next thing is to get the centre console off an check the front linkage, I've arrived at a point that it is hard to get first, I need to push the lever very hard toward the passenger side to get fist and not third. It also doesn't seem to move freely from side to side. It feels like dry nylon bushes, swivels, (I don't know what they're made of until I see them, that's just how it feels) it's not sloppy, feels like it needs lubricating so the question is how and with what, it's not clear from the drawings.

Life is like a sewer, what you get out of it, depends on what you put into it. (Tom Leahrer)

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Roger,

As said by Sparky, take the 4mm with a large does of salt, mine is well off but is the best I could get it with playing with it I was getting Fifth gear and then no reverse than reverse and no fifth. it's a balancing act. Also re check after about a week as the nuts may need tighting up again due to heat etc.

I refurbed the rear translator bushings and roses joints, also gave the gear cables a good does of WD40 to clear the crap out of them, I may look at the front this spring.

Chris

Amateurs built the Ark

Professionals built the Titanic

"I haven't ridden in cars pulled by cows before" "Bullocks, Mr.Belcher" "No, I haven't, honestly"

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This is getting interesting now. I pulled the centre consul out this morning so I could see the gear stick, sprayed some silicon around the swivels and bushes, it made absolutely no difference. So I decided to address the pressing issue of consistently engaging first rather than 3rd. After fooling around and looking at options I decided to shorten the left side cable, ie, wind the rose joint a rotation up on the thread. But no, it was butting up internally so although I had a few threads exposed the end was as far as it could go, trusty dremel to the rescue and cut a few threads off the tip. It was during this operation I discovered where the tightness in level stemmed from, the rose joints, not exactly moving freely. So they spent the afternoon in de-greaser, brake fluid and a light lubricant, much improved but I think replacements are in order.

That extra turn on the cable gave just what I needed, Ist gear no problem. Still not altogether happy with the linkage I put another turn on the translator tie rod. Bugger me, back to cannot consistently get 1st again ! But the gear change itself was really good, so,,,,,,,,,, ,,,,,,,, I took the gear-stick out and "Tailored" the reverse inhibitor.

I think I got it now ! :evil:

Life is like a sewer, what you get out of it, depends on what you put into it. (Tom Leahrer)

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Liking the gear change much more now.

Had a look around at some new rose joints (the end of cable ones) found some cute looking ones with rubber boots, nice, but I'm a bit concerned about the proximity to the exhaust, and whether they would survive the heat. My Elan used to melt the rubber in the engine mount, and the clutch slave cylinder, with the heat from the exhaust.

Anyone tried ones with rubber boots?

Life is like a sewer, what you get out of it, depends on what you put into it. (Tom Leahrer)

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It's ooooooooooooooooooooorgasmic, new rose joints and it has made a huge difference. I still need to be careful not to go from 1st to 3rd, I need to push the stick over toward the passenger, I think that's "shorten the cable closest to the gearbox" I try it over the next few days, but it is a vast improvement.

Life is like a sewer, what you get out of it, depends on what you put into it. (Tom Leahrer)

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Another small adjustment today, a rethink it was "Lengthen" the inner cable, seems better from 1st to 2nd, But only travelled a short distance so hard to be confident until the gearbox gets hot and synchros work freely. So still no floor back in the boot.

Life is like a sewer, what you get out of it, depends on what you put into it. (Tom Leahrer)

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