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Turbo removal S4s (Engine in situ) - Induction/Turbo/Chargecooler/Manifold/Exhaust - The Lotus Forums #ForTheOwners Jump to content


Turbo removal S4s (Engine in situ)


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I used only the highest quality wrenches with tight fitting closed ends . . . personally I like SK's but I'm sure Snap-On wrenches are fine too. I found Craftsman full-length wrenches (even their premium line) to bow and flex far too much, thus robbing turning force applied to the nut.

When possible fit a 6 point closed-end wrench to the nut on the turbo to manifold . . . in some cases access is from above, sometimes it is from the left side (remove the SS heat shield for a better view). Break the nut free after a night of soaking the fitting with some penetrating oil. I always buy the cheap penetrating oil stuff and use much of it, though spend your money anyway you wish. I am told "Mouse Milk" oil is the best but it is really pricey. I dry/wipe the oil off the fitting before serious wrenching starts as a slipped wrench = a chewed hex = far too much swearing. After it releases I used the 12 point wrenches for ease of access. One nut on the turbo needs an ultra thin ring 17 mm wrench. I bought such a no-name generic wrench (a 6 point one) at a pawnshop for $2 and ground it slightly thinner. I will NOT do that to one of my prized SK wrenches. That is the only wrench that I found which fits the bottom right nut on the turbo -if I recall correctly.

On the manifold-to-head nuts first pry back and tap flat the lock-plates away from the fastener. I had good luck with 1/4" drive sockets in both 12 and 13 mm sizes. My engine had a strange mix of nut sizes holding the exhaust manifold on. Seemed 12 mm below and 13 mm upper on the manifold . . . with at least 1 exception. I was surprised at how low the torque was to remove the nuts. Some of these nuts have to be loosened with stubby wrenches as the 1/4" drive ratchet did not have access. I had good luck using professional grade Mastercraft and Craftsman stubby metric wrenches (less torque made for no deflection?) but their polished chrome surface = a rather slippery grip if oil is on them. In some cases the stud unscrewed from the head rather than the nut releasing from the stud but -heck- I was going to replace the studs anyway.

Two bolts externally stripped on my cylinder head service job. Both were cam box male Torx bolts that looked damaged/over-torqued before the service work began. Vice grips, an angle drill, much time and a flared extractor took one bolt off. The second bolt head had to be cleanly drilled through/off and the shaft was later unwound with vice grips.

On reinstall I insisted on stainless steel studs and copper-plated Fuji-lock (said to be a brand name) nuts for the manifold to head and hardened chrome moly steel studs with grade 12 nuts at the turbo. I also replaced the Torx bolts with grade 12 allen head cap screws. I used ceramic high temp paste on the external threads/nuts and red loctite on the studs mounted into the head. I just feel that is too risky an area not to loctite in place and once the head is off the block I can heat the stud to release the loctite. I know some people will strongly disagree with this advice.

All replacement fasteners were bought at specialty bolt supply houses not from a Lotus dealer here in Canada. The nuts were all factory drilled at 3 corners and wired together with twist aviation pliers and stainless steel lock wire. The stop-plates on my car looked re-used and seemed like more of a headache rather than a solution to me at the time.

AP

Edited by andrewp1989
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These are my favorite lock washers. I tried them on my exhaust manifold about 3 years ago without using the locking tabs just to see how well they work and have yet to have a nut come loose. I now use them on any nut/bolt that needs to stay secure and can't use a nylok nut.

Nork-lock

1995 S4s

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hello mike, i have just removed and refitted the manifold leaving the turbo in. for the turbo to manifold bolts, i managed to undo one using a rachet a bend and two extensions and undid this from inside the boot. as for the other three well i used a dremmel and and cut through them, the inside one nearest the engine is the hardest to cut as you will need a mirror and have to cut towards yourself. take you a couple of hours, dont rush it or you will bugger up the manifold. i also ended up cutting between the manifold and the turbo to get the studs shorter. I have drilled out the exhaust manifold and fitted bolts

It's Oogies turn to boogie

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  • 4 years later...

These are my favorite lock washers. I tried them on my exhaust manifold about 3 years ago without using the locking tabs just to see how well they work and have yet to have a nut come loose. I now use them on any nut/bolt that needs to stay secure and can't use a nylok nut.

Nork-lock

Updated/Corrected link to multifunctional  wedge-locking washers, Nord-Lock

 http://www.nord-lock.com/products/multifunctional-wedge-locking/

 

and

 

http://www.nord-lock.com/products/wedge-locking/washers/introduction/

 

http://www.nord-lock.com/products/wedge-locking/washers/joint-guide/

Edited by MrDangerUS

MrDangerUS

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The manifold / turbo nuts are probably the worst nuts to get at in the whole car. If your always working on your car then occassionally slackening and retightening them will ensure they are always ready to come off should you need to take them off for some reason. Sounds a bit over the top but given the agro they cause.........

I regularly spray/move the nut just to be sure, I was a bit lucky in some sense as I had replaced the exhaust, then needed to remove the engine (did the manifold at same time. then fitted the old SS manifold, which was crap, then the new Alunox manifold, so I have well worked studs and nuts which are probably worn out due to the number of times they have been removed Ha Ha.

As per previous posts the best tools are essential, do not compromise a good knuckle joint and extension bars are well worth the cost.

 

Dave

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  • 3 months later...

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