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Tools and supplies needed

1)windshield removal knife (see picture)

windshieldremovaltool1jm.jpg

2)guitar strings 039 nickel plated ribbed

3) wooden dowells 2x with hole drilled for guitar string diameter

4)Sika Flex polyurethane adhesive or other profesional polyurethane windshield

adhesive. I got some from a local auto glass place (Elite Auto Glass).

http://www.sikaindustry.com/ind/ipd-autogl...toglass-agr.htm

5)Sika black primer 206 G+P. I got some from a local auto glass place

(Elite Auto

Glass).

http://www.sikaindustry.com/ind/ipd-autogl...ass-agr-217.htm

6)single edge razor blades, utility knife blades, and a handle for scraping

7)sharp pointy awl (poker)

8)sand paper

9)small and medium foam paint brishes

10)Drill & drill bits

11) Manual Rivet gun and aluminum rivets

12)heavy duty caulking gun (Home building hardware store, the kind with the long

handles, not the bent

metal ones)

13)masking tape, fine line and normal

14) window tint, not too dark

15) Window tint application tools, squeegee, soapy water

So first of all you need to remove the 1/4 window. I have attached a

picture of a windshield removal tool. This tool is very handy and

makes it easy to control the amount of force that you apply so that

you don't slip and damage the car (which will happen with a normal

knife). I bought this at an industrial tool supply called Harbour

Freight.

This kind of knife can't reach all of the areas around the Esprit 1/4

window, so you'll also need a bunch of guitar strings (nickel, not

copper, with the ribbed texture) I think I bought 039"s??? You'll

also need a couple of short handle shaped dowells with a hole drilled

through each.

What I do is drill out the rivets of the ABS plastic trim pieces along

the leading edge of the 1/4 window. These ABS pieces break easy and

are around $55 each, so be careful. Try and slide a knife under the

plastic piece to cut the polyurethane glue that holds it in place.

There should be only three dabs, one near each rivet.

Once you get the ABS plastic piece off, I start by poking a hole

through the glue at the leading edge of the 1/4 window. I use a small

awl (poker). Once you break through into the hatch area of the car,

cut one end off of a guitar string and pass it through one of the

dowell handles. Take the free end and pass it through the hole that

you poked into the window glue. On the inside of the car, pass the

guitar string through the other handle, wrap it around the handle a

bunch of times and tape it to the handle. Start sawing up and around,

or down and around the 1/4 window. The window removal knife is

particularly helpful along the straight bottom edge of the window. Be

careful not to pull out with the knife or you'll break the glass.

Also be careful not to pull your inside hand toward the car or you'll

cut into the fiberglass. Keep you hand near the glass (on the

inside). The most difficult part is the rear corner of the glass, due

to the tight space available. Don't pull on the glass, it might

break, though it is pretty strong.

Once you remove the glass, you need to trim down the adhesive around

the window frame of the car. In my case I removed all traces of the

glue. You can leave a thin ribbon of the old adhesive to act as a

base for the new adhesive. I didn't do this, so I'm not sure how good

the bond strength is. I do know that the way that I did it was very

strong, it took me hours to remove the original glass, and 5 days to

remove when I glued it in my way (I wanted to make sure it was bonded

well).

For this next step you must have Sika 206 G+P black primer!!!!

http://www.sikaindustry.com/ind/ipd-autoglass-agr-217

I got mine from alocal Elite Auto Glass store, they gave me a used can for free.

On the 1/4 window; using masking tape on the outside of the glass,

make a pattern of the black trim around the inside of the glass.

Since you wouldn't be doing all this if the black trim was still

perfectly intact, scrape off all the black trim with a razor blade.

The wide black ceramic frit along the leading edge of the window does

not come off!!! Though do not gouge it with the corner of the razor

blade!!!!! Also scrape off all of the window tint, and glue. And

orange oil based cleaner degreaser will help remove the adhesive.

Now if the car and the windshield are scraped free of black trim and

glue (you may leave that thin ribbon of polyurethan on the car) you

are ready to prime the 1/4 window. If you removed all the

polyurethane from the car, then you'll need to prime the bond area

with the Sika 206 G+P. Maks off all of the parts of the car that you

don't want to get a permanent black coating on. Using a foam brush,

wipe the primer onto the areas where the window glue will be. It

dries instantly.

Once you scrape off all the black on the glass, copy your tape outline

from the outside to the inside of the glass, so that you have masked

off all but where the black used to be. Pour a small amount of the

Sika primer 206 G+P into a small plastic cup. Stick the foam brush

into the primer and wipe it onto the window in one clean easy stroke.

You may want to practice by wiping it onto a newspaper first. The

primer goes on easy, and dries instantly. When dry it is like a

metallic glass coating. Try to do this in one stroke so that no brush

strokes appear. You can always scrape it off and try again. Try and

do this in a thin coat, becaue a thick line will cause problems with

the window tint film later.

When the black border is done, peel off the masking tape. You are now

ready to have the window tinted. You can either take it to a shop or

do it yourself. The original Lotus tint film slightly coverd part of

the black border. In the meantime, keep dust from getting onto the

primed surfaces!!! If you do it yourself, a little hint is trim the

film on the other side of the glass, so that you don't cut the black

coating.

Now the window is ready to bond onto the car. Apply the polyurethane

adhesive with the caulking gun, to the outside edge of the 1/4 window.

One bead width will do, you don't need a double row. Make sure there

are no breaks in the adhesive ring. Pick up the glass and press it

onto the car. Press it all raound, and space it evenly from the car

along the bottom edge. You can use a couple 4mm spacers (rubber) to

hold it up off of the car's body, though the viscosity of the adhesive

will usually do this. And you can tape the window to the body to keep

it from sliding down. Use your finger tip or rounded tool to smooth

any adhesive, that squishes out around the window, into a fillet like

you would while caulking a bathtub. You can add alittle extra

adhesive around the perimeter, and smooth it to make sure there aren't

any voids.

Let it set, check on it for the first hour to make sure the window

hasn't slipped. I would let it cure over night, especially in a cold

garage. Normal drive away time for the Sika adhesives is around 1

hour, but I would let it cure overnight.

Now you'll need to re-rivet those ABS plastic pieces in place, use a

little of the adhesive to hold them in place and seal around the

riviets.

Travis

Vulcan Grey 89SE

 

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thanks travis. very timely, as i'm in the middle of removing my front windscreen. have blistered hands from yanking out that silver plastic trim. my rear quarterwindows are in good shape, but i may need to remove them to access two of the screws for removing the cant rail. why would anyone block access to mounting hardware with a glued window?

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  • 2 weeks later...

The first two posters also asked for a reason for the bubbling. Gas vapors. If you have not replaced your original gas vent lines I suggest you do so before you replace the 1/4 windows or you wll soon be doing it all over again. The original surgical rubber tubing used by Lotus rots away quickly and allows gas vapors to be trapped in that area by the 1/4 window. The fumes attack the black backing and eat it away.

There are many write ups on that particular malady. Good luck.

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I did mine on my 90 SE last winter. I used all the products Travis recommended. By the summer my seal was all bubbly again. Travis' instructions are great and it is not that difficult of a job ( I had my engine out), but somehow I must have screwed up. I take pride in the ability to do all my own Esprit maintenance but I'm going to let the pros do it this winter.

Pete

90 SE

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I did mine on my 90 SE last winter. I used all the products Travis recommended. By the summer my seal was all bubbly again. Travis' instructions are great and it is not that difficult of a job ( I had my engine out), but somehow I must have screwed up. I take pride in the ability to do all my own Esprit maintenance but I'm going to let the pros do it this winter.

Pete

90 SE

Sorry to hear that Pete.

I did mine 5 years an 20,000+miles ago, and there has been no sign of bubbling or leaking. And I drive in the rain alot. Though I don't do car washes.

Travis

Vulcan Grey 89SE

 

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Sorry to hear that Pete.

I did mine 5 years an 20,000+miles ago, and there has been no sign of bubbling or leaking.  And I drive in the rain alot.  Though I don't do car washes.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Sh#t happens. I greatly appreciated your help. I guess glass work just isn't my forte. Lets hope I'm good with woodwork since I'll be tackling my cracked dash this winter.

Pete

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Sh#t happens. I greatly appreciated your help. I guess glass work just isn't my forte. Lets hope I'm good with woodwork since I'll be tackling my cracked dash this winter.

Pete

Did you see what I did for the dash?

http://www.lotuscolorado.com/vulcangrey/gallery/Dash

it only cost me $40 total and several hours work, for the carbon fiber dash.

Travis

Vulcan Grey 89SE

 

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Did you see what I did for the dash?

http://www.lotuscolorado.com/vulcangrey/gallery/Dash

it only cost me $40 total and several hours work, for the carbon fiber dash.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Great info. It will help me with my dash removal. You're much more talented than me in that department. I can tackle any mechanical task with relative ease but when it comes to making things look pretty I'm outta my league. I can however handle the basic tasks of cutting, shaping, and staining wood. I would love to have a carbon fiber dash, but it would have to be already made.

Pete

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hi chris ,do you just ring auto glass to repaint the black stuff

nigel 88 turbo

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Ring or turn up to local depot and get quote either works.

Lots of water ingress mainly because the tailgate has been up in some rather nasty weather whilst i've been fixing things. One day I will learn to wait for summer or get it inside.

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