free hit
counters
REMOTE CENTRAL LOCKING DIY FOR S3 - - Interior/Exterior/Lights/Glass/Alarms/ICE/HVAC - The Lotus Forums #ForTheOwners Jump to content


Recommended Posts


Upgrade today to remove Google ads and support TLF.
  • Replies 13
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

or you could combine it with a burglar alarm system, that will control the CDL, as I did...

Ciao,

JB

'88 Excel SE - monaco white

'99 Elise 111 - azure blue �

'87 TurboEsprit - calypso red

'02 BMW 325ci convertible - diamond black

wwwlotusexceldebannernew300eu5.jpg

http://excelregister.lotusexcel.de

Link to post
Share on other sites
or you could combine it with a burglar alarm system, that will control the CDL, as I did...

Now that would be nice, question is would the central locking be able to set the alarm or would it be that the alarm would activate the central locking?

As you can tell mechanicals are my comfort zone not too sure about the new fangled electrickery

so anyone who has a working knowledge of the Autowatch alarm and could give pointers would be a friend for life :animier:

John

p.s I sent the e-bay seller a message asking if he does a two door version - seems a shame to waste 2 actuators (unless Franc says he used all four I suppose?)

Link to post
Share on other sites
p.s I sent the e-bay seller a message asking if he does a two door version - seems a shame to waste 2 actuators (unless Franc says he used all four I suppose?)

Hey, why not just have all 4 anyway?

You could always play around with the leftovers and have a go

at at putting in an electric boot release or something!

:animier:

Link to post
Share on other sites
Hey, why not just have all 4 anyway?

You could always play around with the leftovers and have a go

at at putting in an electric boot release or something!

:animier:

I had thought about using the other 2 for somehow locking the fuel caps but then stopped dreaming! Having 2 spare is nothing bad though, at that price I didn't really care!

There are 2 more functions on the remote so could be used to activate alarm or close the windows I guess.

Cheers, Franc

First step is to remove the door card and then remove the door handle. This is quite easy, remove the interior door handle (3 bolts) and the card should lift off (be careful not to forget the wiring to the cig lighter).

The exterior door handle has 2x 8mm nuts and then unclip the 2 rods and extract.

1. drill the 2 holes shown on the photo.

2. bend the end of one of the rods (in the kit) as shown - a vice and hammer is best for this. The rod has one end bent already - they must both bend the same direction. Grind the end down to about 8mm.

3. feed the pre-bent end of the rod through the eye of the actuator and then the end you have just bent through the 2 holes you drilled. This takes a bit of fiddling but made easier with the help of long nose pliers. Be careful not to break any of the original mechanism when using a little force! When it is in place check the clearence as you don't want it to hit the top of the round bush underneath (marked by red arrow)

That's the hardest part finished! I will show you where and how I fitted the actuator in the next few days as I have refitted the door cards before taking any more pickies! No more drilling is needed from this point.

Cheers, Franc

post-6351-1248811054_thumb.jpg

post-6351-1248811060_thumb.jpg

post-6351-1248811067_thumb.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

This is interesting, I'm sure my left arm has become about an inch longer stretching to lock and unlock the passsenger door over the years.

Franc, does the movement on the solenoid arm roughly match the distance the drilled lock mechanism moves. Asking because I've seen these retrofit solenoids "bounce" extended and shut again if you don't get the adjustment correct

Normally Aspirated - and lovin' it!

Link to post
Share on other sites
Franc, does the movement on the solenoid arm roughly match the distance the drilled lock mechanism moves. Asking because I've seen these retrofit solenoids "bounce" extended and shut again if you don't get the adjustment correct

Mine has worked flawlessly so far, the movement is almost consistent with the travel of the solenoid but I've used silicon to absorb the twist/bounce instead of bolting the solenoid solidly to the door skin.

I'll post a few pictures of the solenoid positioning when I remove the door card at the weekend.

Cheers, Franc

Link to post
Share on other sites

The last thing to do was mount the solenoid.

Using the 2 metal strips (joined together with a nut & bolt), mount one end on the bottom door handle nut and the other end onto the solenoid using the screws provided in the kit.

Now test the locking to determin where the final mounting position will be. I thouroughly cleaned the top of the window runner with a solvent and then superglued 2 nylon blocks (the type used for kitchen cabinets) to sandwich the base of the solenoid.

Testing the operation one last time the final step was to silicon around the solenoid. This is for the main holding strength and also to allow for some absorbtion for the recoil when operated.

You'll probably get a better idea by just looking at the photo!

post-6351-1249148886_thumb.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 6 years later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



Upgrade today to remove Google ads and support TLF.


×
×
  • Create New...