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As it is coming up to autumn winter again, I decided to have another go at the heater as I've never really been that impressed. As this is quite a popular topic, I took some photos as it might help someone else.

Before taking anything apart:

31082009067.jpg

Removed the heater cover

31082009065.jpg

You can see the vacuum actuator and hose, with the top flap in the position to avoid taking in any fresh air. I derusted the flap whilst I was at it and replaced the foam strip around the edges as the original foam was falling apart.

The black cover to the left of the actuator allows access to the water valve:

31082009063.jpg

So you can check the full travel of the lever controlling the water flow. On mine the cable was not very well anchored so it was only moving about half the maximum travel.

The heater fan housing was only held in with a couple of screws and was easily removed:

31082009068.jpg

The lower heater fan was seized solid, and even after being freed off is pretty sick, so I'll get hold of another one. Interestingly, with the working motor in the top, I get a really good blow of air, but in the bottom position it's pretty poor.

I also taped over the large access hole to the heater hose connections to see if that stops the high speed cold draft I have suffered from, although this may have been because the heater cover had been missing screws, so was not sealed properly.

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Great stuff, cant wait to look at mine when I get the car back.


"Intellectuals solve problems; geniuses prevent them." Albert Einstein

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Hi,

I have never got any proper heat from the interior heater, and the info shows me a place to start where to check. :) Nice one.

Miguelito

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I'm sure that taping over that hole to the heater hoses will help keep out the cold air.


S4 Elan, Elan +2S, Federal-spec, World Championship Edition S2 Esprit #42, S1 Elise, Excel SE

 

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Good photos...so THAT'S where the water valve is!!!!! I don't recall ever seeing that particular cover on mine...must have another look.


Scientists investigate that which already is; Engineers create that which has never been." - Albert Einstein

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I've no idea if that hole is standard or not - but it's very useful! I also know now that the bottom heater motor runs in reverse i.e. both impellors run in the same direction when viewed from above. So if you do need a new motor - beware they are different.

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Hi Will,

Lotusbits if you're having trouble with sourcing the motors. They're the same as Elite ones.

Also check the rubber around the steering column as it exits the footwell as a source of ram fed cold air when you're on the move!

Pete


Pete '79 S2

LEW Miss September 2009

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As it is coming up to autumn winter again, I decided to have another go at the heater as I've never really been that impressed. As this is quite a popular topic, I took some photos as it might help someone else.

Before taking anything apart:

31082009067.jpg

Removed the heater cover

31082009065.jpg

You can see the vacuum actuator and hose, with the top flap in the position to avoid taking in any fresh air. I derusted the flap whilst I was at it and replaced the foam strip around the edges as the original foam was falling apart.

The black cover to the left of the actuator allows access to the water valve:

31082009063.jpg

So you can check the full travel of the lever controlling the water flow. On mine the cable was not very well anchored so it was only moving about half the maximum travel.

The heater fan housing was only held in with a couple of screws and was easily removed:

31082009068.jpg

The lower heater fan was seized solid, and even after being freed off is pretty sick, so I'll get hold of another one. Interestingly, with the working motor in the top, I get a really good blow of air, but in the bottom position it's pretty poor.

I also taped over the large access hole to the heater hose connections to see if that stops the high speed cold draft I have suffered from, although this may have been because the heater cover had been missing screws, so was not sealed properly.

Shuffled photos around in my photo bucket account without thinking so quoted to put them back.

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Thanks for the re-post of the photos!

It seems heater problems are popular, I know your photos will sure help me figure my problem out.

I'll see if the layout is similar on a L/H drive car.


Something I learned about cars or planes, it all works until it doesn't anymore...sometime there is no way around it!

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Was about to start a new thread, but seen this and the helpful images. Guess what no heat !!! Had no interior fan, but have fixed that. It was due to the fuse, but more importantly the connectors to the three speed selector switch not being correctly connected up. If not connected in the right way, fuse goes, no fan. Then you change the fuse. Goes again for a bit, then dies. Then the last owner must have given up, and that's how I bought her. So after checking all the wiring, the relay, having a cup of tea, and starting again, it works. I made a note of the correct configuration if anyone needs.

So one down one to go. I want heat !!! Have re-connected a way-would vacum pipe. Little rat !!!. My car has a rotational flap linked to the main long flap for ram air ventilation. I have looked inside, and set to cold and hot. The mechanism moves, but no heat. I seem to be getting lots of movement. Maybe I take a photo max hot/max cold. See if someone can confirm enough movement. Blockage in the system? Car never over heats. Always been good like that. The A/C is dead I think too. The electronic board is receiving 12volts. Does this override the standard cold hot set up. I mean if the thing broke and it was set to mega cold requirement, does that mean it stays cold now always until the A/C board device get's fixed?

Question: Why no heat, blockage in piping somewhere. What to do?

Question: A/C board device. How to check working okay. The little red LED isn't working. Ideally I'd settle for bye-passing the A/C. Is there a way, a circuit?

Can provide photos.

Drove my mates S4 the other day. He's got heat. I need it too in my old Turbo Esprit 1984

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The biggest difference on mine was after flushing the heater circuit with a hose pipe - forwards and backwards by disconnecting the hoses in the engine bay. The heater circuit I think is in parallel with the main radiator and the car will run fine with minimal water (if any?) going through it. With the engine hot and the heater on full heat do the hoses in the footwell also heat up? This would at least confirm you have hot water getting to the matrix.

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Charles, Good point. Looking under the passenger side dash, there are the matrix pipes. They are coverred in what's best described as a tar like material. Looking closely I can see that someone at one point has been there with a screwdriver, and broken some of this away to get to the pipes for inspection. I can see a rusty fixing. I'm thinking more and more now that the heating system matrix is blocked. I'll take some pictures of what I'm explaining. Get there soon I think. This Forum is great stuff like this. :rolleyes:

Here are the pipes. At the bottom you can see where someone has been doing a bit of poking with a screwdriver, and broken away the tar like covering. So I think I'm getting warmer to the issue being the heater matrix system being blocked.

My mate on his car fixed his over-heating problems by taking the radiator out and running some very aggressive acid into the radiator. I don't and hope I won't need to do that. My car is running okay concerning general running, and up to correct temperature Engine-wise'. It's just the heater, and lack of heat the issue. So what do I need to do, concerning just flushing the heater part of the system?

post-9210-0-49416000-1293487655.jpg

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not sure why yours is covered with tar? Mine just has the hoses and some jubilee style clips. I wonder if a PO had a leak there and the tar was a bodge, or it could be some other coating that has degraded over time.

On my NA the heater hoses connect to the back of the block near to tge bellhousing and the front of the engine (can't remember where exactly), As I had to drop the coolant as part of the cambelt change I disconnected these and ran water in both directions alternately for a few minutes (or rather sparky did), there was a major increase in water flow after this and some gunk did get spat out.

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The pipes covered in tar are A/C pipes. They can get pretty hot or cold so they have the tar as an insulation. The hot water pipes should be rubber hoses.


S4 Elan, Elan +2S, Federal-spec, World Championship Edition S2 Esprit #42, S1 Elise, Excel SE

 

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Yup deffo air con pipes, mine are all manned up in a similar way from memory!

The heater pipes run through the centre tunnel in the chassis and then poke up into the passenger cabin via a couple of 90 degree rubber pipes..

Flush it through and see how it goes, start gentle with the water incase the matrix is alittle on the fragile side.

I'm interested in your fan switch wiring though.

There was a couple of melted and cut/snapped wires behind the dash, turned out to be earths mostly to do with the heater.

Now I've not touched the switch wiring just took it off the centre console and refitted it.

Now since I've bad the car back on the road last year it's been blowing fuses, only on speeds 2&3.

The fan is fine I've tested it, all the new earths are fine as I've checked them too. I never did check the switch wiring though, just made an assumption that it was untouched.

Now I'm thinking your problem could be my problem, I'll have to take a look. I've got the wiring diagrams but if you've got a few pics it'd be appreciated to speed things up...


Chunky Lover

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All done. Yes indeed, them what lookes like fabric material covered pipes are the air/con system. Left them alone. Flushed out the matrix system. That pipe from the water pump is a little awkward to undo and you have to be careful unscrewing through the cam belt. The return is just to the right. I also flushed directly on the heater matrix. Let the water run for a minute or so, and did a couple of times, until water running clear. Then replaced the four jubilee clips with proper automotive types.

All reconnected. Car took longer to heat up (normal). Then when up to temperature the pipes going to the matrix felt warm. Good sign. Later when I switched the interior fan on, nice warm air coming through. Tomorrow I re-flush the whole system again so to add proper coolent. Momentarilly has 100% water.

So to sum up: If the fan is out.

i) Check the fuse.

ii) If continues to blow then it's the connections in the wrong order (pluged into the switch).

iii) If still not working, it has to be the switch, or could be the relay or dodgy earth.

For heat,

iv) Just flush out the heater matrix. Should be fine after. Make sure set to Hot when doing this.

Job done!! :thumbsup:

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Hi Simon,

Resending again the info you need. See images. At the back of the switch on each spade connector they have markings (letters). This is the correct connecting up, for off, click once=speed one, click twice=speed two, click thirdtime=speed three.

H=ORANGE wire

L=GREEN/grey stripe wire

B=BLACK

M=YELLOW

C=GREY

I also took my fan out and checked it on the bench. Worth doing, just two screws hold it in there, and unplug the two connector plugs. I carefully linked up to a 12v source (battery charger). Checked it turned freely.

Good luck!!

Now i put her back together...

Yup deffo air con pipes, mine are all manned up in a similar way from memory!

The heater pipes run through the centre tunnel in the chassis and then poke up into the passenger cabin via a couple of 90 degree rubber pipes..

Flush it through and see how it goes, start gentle with the water incase the matrix is alittle on the fragile side.

I'm interested in your fan switch wiring though.

There was a couple of melted and cut/snapped wires behind the dash, turned out to be earths mostly to do with the heater.

Now I've not touched the switch wiring just took it off the centre console and refitted it.

Now since I've bad the car back on the road last year it's been blowing fuses, only on speeds 2&3.

The fan is fine I've tested it, all the new earths are fine as I've checked them too. I never did check the switch wiring though, just made an assumption that it was untouched.

Now I'm thinking your problem could be my problem, I'll have to take a look. I've got the wiring diagrams but if you've got a few pics it'd be appreciated to speed things up...

post-9210-0-82681200-1293696264.jpg

post-9210-0-76509600-1293696280.jpg

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I'll check it out, cheers for that mate.

I've ready bench tested the motor and it's all good, rotates freely and runs perfect.

I'm hoping this wiring is mixed up but I've not any real time to put into it if it's not the case, it'll have to wait.

Thanks again


Chunky Lover

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well my fan works - quite powerfully in fact (!) - but my problem is:

If I put my heater (S3 non air con) to Heat / defrost with the full heat on - I do get some warm air from the screen vents but as soon as I speed up (e.g. above about 30) it goes cold.

If I switch to heater - which theoretically puts heat through the feet vents, I get heat from the feet vents only if I turn the temperature down a little. At full heat I get almost no air flow (all comes from face vents). Again, when I go above 30 it goes cold.

Any ideas?

PS heater matrix hoses, both sides are hot.

I assume its something to do with mixture flaps / vacuum etc.... any help or ideas on what should happen would be great. All vacuums pipes etc. seem to fine behind the stereo and the exterior air flap (below the bonnet vents) opens and shuts.

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Henry,

Sounds like it's a directivity issue, ie as you say the positioning of the flaps. Have you taken the fibre-glass cover off in the front luggage section. It's that big piece covering the fan motor. The start of this thread shows a picture. Perhaps the big flap is jamed. I think it's due to the vacum hoses. Perhaps they aren't on enough and possible air leak. I would flush out the heater matrix just so you can tick that box even though you say you have warm pipes, coming down from the inspection aperture.

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