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Bilstein Shocks


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Thanks @Andyww, and indeed they do provide an instruction leaflet (seen at https://youtu.be/0CRL2C1BKQg?t=360 ^^)

Thanks @sailorbob =)

I assume the curvier side of the bushings should face each others in their dished washers, matting the upper cup, and the flatter side towards the exterior? (see the magnificent little drawing lol)
O███████------▒}--|-|)-)-█-(-(|-}--ⱶ

As for the abutment bushing and its washer (under the blue cover), I have read about the worries that the washer could wear the damper rod surface, that makes sense but as @andydclements said https://www.thelotusforums.com/forums/topic/65137-correct-fitment-of-bilstien-damper-top-bushes/?tab=comments#comment-506707 if it's pushed at the top with the beige bushing that should be fine, isn't it? (maybe the washer can be secured with a bit of sikaflex?)

PS: @sailorbob > did you have your washers bichromated?! :o

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I didn't get instructions in my kit, I've not read of anybody else getting instructions with their Esprit set. I'd guess that's because they were designed in conjunction with Lotus for which theirs a manual leading to the possibility that Bilstein expect Lotus to re-write the manual/parts list and Lotus expect Bilstein to issue instructions with each set.

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@brian_gt4 may be able to assist with this. :)

88 Esprit NA, 89 Esprit Turbo SE, Evora, Evora S, Evora IPS, Evora S IPS, Evora S IPS SR, Evora 400, Elise S1, Elise S1 111s, Evora GT410 Sport

Evora NA

For forum issues, please contact the Moderators. I will aim to respond to emails/PM's Mon-Fri 9-6 GMT. 

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Legend, thanks very much Brian :thumbsup:

 

88 Esprit NA, 89 Esprit Turbo SE, Evora, Evora S, Evora IPS, Evora S IPS, Evora S IPS SR, Evora 400, Elise S1, Elise S1 111s, Evora GT410 Sport

Evora NA

For forum issues, please contact the Moderators. I will aim to respond to emails/PM's Mon-Fri 9-6 GMT. 

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Yes, thank you very much @brian_gt4!! :cheers:

I haven't dismantled the rear yet but I have noticed the rear springs seem not exactly cylindrical, it's more like there are two coiling diameters, it seems that on the one end the coiling diameter is slightly smaller (like 2-3mm max on the diameter), it's noticeable when you roll the spring on a flat surface and both springs are of the "exact" same shape. So I was wondering whether it's just due to the manufacturing process or if it's by design and that it should be put the small diameter up or down. Maybe it's obvious when you see the cups but as I said I have not dismantled the rear suspension yet, so I am just anticipating a bit.

PS: Would you confirm the bushing orientation @sailorbobguessed? It seems logical to me too as they seem to fit better with the curvier side towards the cup indeed, but as you are nearby it would be nice to be sure ... :D

PPS: As for the service notes, maybe we (I) just don't have the latest revision ... :)

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I have an S4s so my rear springs hopefully are a pair of LOTAC05418 (I say hopefully because I don't have them here with me to check. But I am sure I have an S4s, though :D)

To me they look like they are made of two cylinders, one coiling extremity a bit smaller for around 2.5 to 3 coils, then a quick transition (0.25 to 0.5 coil maybe?) and then a slightly larger cylinder for the rest.

As they both are similar I do tend to think they are made like this by design, so it would be better to put them the right way in their respective cups:) (maybe it's obvious when you try to put it in the lower aluminium coil)

A bit like that, although I obviously exaggerated the diameter difference (and I put the smaller coiling at the bottom but that is totally random)

rearEspritSpring.png

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So, yesterday I had the opportunity to continue on that and I managed to put it in place. In the meantime I had a look at the M100 workshop manual and it states the top stem nut should be tightened to 20-30 N.m, so that is what I did on the Esprit too (24 actually ^^). That torque is obviously far superior that what is needed to reach the tube spacer but actually I was quite surprised the bushes are not very good looking while they are tightened. Not horrid, but not very straight. I attached a photo. It's a bit asymmetrical... Should I worry about something or does that look normal? For your info I greased the bushings surfaces (silicone grease), maybe it's better to mount that degreased so that it seats better on the washers?

 

front upper cup top bushing.jpg

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Maybe it can be seen a bit better on that one, on the right — although it's a bit blurry, sorry about that (it's the same way @sailorbob and @brian_gt4 said it should be ... unless I misunderstood something of course):

cup2.jpg

 

 

 

Maybe I am just overthinking a bit, it's not that bad, but it's the first time I change my shocks, so ... :)

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That is what is worrying me too, but that would mean the spacer tube is too short (probably not ^^) or just that the two washers (the large flat one and the large dished one) are not supposed to be in contact with the tube?!

(That being said they don't really fit the inner dished washers that well even when not squashed, see the earlier Sailorbob's photo quoted by Brian https://www.thelotusforums.com/forums/topic/25978-bilstein-shocks/?page=2&tab=comments#comment-765029 — but of course it's not as obvious as on my photos)

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Usually on this type of mount the nut is would down enough to compress the bushes, and if necessary a second lock nut used. Not sure about the distance tube. I dont believe there is a tube fitted on the original shocks? This does all seem a bit vague given the high cost of these items. 

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Ok so I just been out to the car. This what I have in situ can only see the underside.IMG_20180214_110550001.jpg

IMG_20180214_110519630.jpg

I think I just nipped up with first but then tightened the lock nut above.

Thin top hat in the top pic looks a bit off centre. I just had a look but can quite see. I will have to jack the car up and check that one out.

 

 

Buddsy

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Thanks a lot, that's interesting.

First I am surprised it's different from mine as it's an inner cup. I suppose it's the rear? (not that important but I am wondering — or maybe it's just because it's a Giugiaro car? :))

As for the bushing I would say yours looks almost not squished at all, that might be OK in theory (I don't know, hence my questions :D) but actually I really think it's not enough, especially because it's off centre indeed. I suspect it moves when you drive. Maybe the damper top stem is actually knocking the cup hole. If I were you I would have a look at that.

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Well the two outer washers are "pressed" on the tube anyway, so unless they shouldn't, the applied torque won't change the washers positions? (unless the tube itself is squashed of course!)
I thought I understood you said you tightened the nut until there are no thread left and then t/8 to 1/4 turn, didn't you?

Of course at first the more one tightens the nut the more it will squish the bushings, but when the green cup is pressed towards the blue cup enough it soon reaches the red tube spacer and then it doesn't move anymore (and at that point the torque is really low). So If you too have tightened the nut until there is no thread, what I understand is that you tightened it until it reaches the red tube, and then the 1/8-4 turn to apply the final torque. Which is really similar to what it did with my 24Nm.

Your bushings were much less squashed?

 

As for the following quick and (very) dirty CAD I obviously omitted the upper cup and the inner washers and bushings, I just wanted to show that the red spacer tube is touching both the external washers. I mean, that is what I did, and what I understood you did. But maybe I misunderstood your "until there is no thread" advice =)

badcad.png

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