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So where have a i gone wrong. Painted half the chassis and when i left it that night all looked good with no runs was even starting to go tacky.

Went out there today and runs everywhere. Looks terrible!!! Thinking hammerite now as i have to sand it all down and dont want to be making the same mistake again.

Anyon advise???

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Wayne,

Stick with the POR15.

As Jono says it's head and shoulders above hammerite.

Finish is usually excellent and seems to last forever.

Give it another go and this time not so much on the brush :)

Wing Commander Dibble DFC<br /><br />
North Midlands Esprit Group<br /><br />
NMEG "the formidable squadron"<br /><br />
"probably the most active Esprit group in the world" Andy Betts, Castle Combe May 2007

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The only place I've used POR is inside my fuel tanks. I had my chassis blasted and then painted it with an enamel based chassis black paint. I've used POR in the past but don't like the stuff and if you ever want to get it off good luck!! I painted some bits on an e-type I used to own and then decided to have the whole shell blasted - what a pig it was to get off. Some would say that you'll never need to get it off but 'never' is a very long time!!

Practical Classics ran some test a few years back to compare the anti-rust treatment paints and it came about 5 out of 10 - they didn't rate it at all.

Paul.

Lotus Esprit [meaning] a 1:1 scale Airfix kit with a propensity to catch fire

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83rd time of saying it - you must stir POR15 for months on end before using it :lol:

If it's watery it's no good, push the stiring stick hard into the pot and you should feel it sink slowly, or decant it into a jam jar (like I used to) and see what you have left in the tin.

This is probably the most common failure of the stuff, when it goes on poorly - MAN is it bad.

Re-stir the tin, push hard into the bottom and you should feel a large lump in there which is the un-disolved paint, stir this in, it takes about 10-15 mins to disolve. If you leave the apint for a few days you'll have to re-stir it, thats how hard it can go, and why after months on the shelf it's likely to be rock solid at the bottom. The paint shouldn't be watery or thin, thats the solvent not the paint itself. To be safe stir again for another 5-10mins until it's like jam or melted ice cream - it should have the same consistancy of hammerite - if it isn't......stir it some more :)

Use 2-3 light coats (done mine in 2 pretty much always) - the 1st coat will go a little streaky and you will not be able to cover all the metal in 1 go, the key is to use the 1st coat as a base for the second to work on, so go nice and light and work the paint in, rubbing like a polish. 2nd coat will cling to the 1st a lot better and shouldn't streak - unlike other paints you can actually cast this paint, I've used it to fill holes, so the overcoat is often tougher than the 1st.

Paul I agree you will struggle to get it off, but isn't that a good thing with anti rust hehe :thumbsup:

I've had it on the GT3 since I 1st got the car and I still believe it's in good nick - if I get the time tomorrow I might have a little look underneath and take a photo.

If you do the ground work and get it to go properly it's amazing stuff, if you cut any corners its dissapointing.

If you look at my brake caliper adapter thats what the 1st coat should look like :

3998593119_513b4aaacd.jpg

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Looks like i will be attempting another go tomorrow. Will stir first as advised and hopefully it will be okaye. Will have to sand the first coat down

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Paul I agree you will struggle to get it off, but isn't that a good thing with anti rust hehe :)

Nothing lasts forever!!

Paul.

Lotus Esprit [meaning] a 1:1 scale Airfix kit with a propensity to catch fire

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Okay so round two after some hard sanding a secong coat applied. Seems to on much better after ten mins of stirring!! Will have a look tomorrow and see how it is. Fingers crossed.

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Practical Classics ran some test a few years back to compare the anti-rust treatment paints and it came about 5 out of 10 - they didn't rate it at all.

Funny Id give Practical Classics about 5 out of 10 - I dont rate it at all!

Lol True though

Buddsy

 

"Belief is the enemy of knowing" - Crrow777

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I'm with Wayne on this one. I tried the brake caliper kit and paint, I was left underwemed and underimpressed. So much so I stripped it all off and used another product, VHT.

Life is like a sewer, what you get out of it, depends on what you put into it. (Tom Leahrer)

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I have used it (POR15) a few times, most of them quite recently (last month or two). So far found it very good - love the way its self-levelling - get a nice smooth shiny finish with no brush marks.

Did my drive shafts about a year ago and they still look good. It does run a little, so you have to go very thin to minimise that.

Whatever you do, do not paint straight out of the tin. Decant small amounts into a separate container and paint out of that.

Planning to spray my fibreglass radiator cowling with it soon...

Steve

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Goes relly well onto GRP - I've done my wheel arches in it (chassis black) and the cowls, they look super.

Cowls were not overly well moulded imo and mine started to rot a bit, use some GRP repair and POR-15'd over them and they look ace.

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