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Just got the majority off the car to restore / upgrade - when I say suspension thats the hub carrier and all the metal carrying the hub to the chassis, my wheel arch is just a hole atm (well nearly, see below).

A few things I came across and wondered why they are done etc.

1) Why use UNF threads on some parts of the fixings ? Im guessing the bush sizes are only in imperial so they have to be the correct fdiameter ?

2) Should the drive shaft retaining nut be THAT tight ? Cant get it off, although I have been bad and not used a correct size driver, been using an easy fit one...anyone know the size so I can buy one tomorrow ? (about 30mm) Had the car in gear and I could turn the drive shaft back enven with the other wheel on the ground and not turning (guess it's slipping the clutch.)

3) How the heck do you remove the lower stud that holds the shock absorber to the hub carrier / lower link arm - mine is stuck well fast and if I clonk it either end

it still doesnt come off. Looks like I'm gonna have to take the hub carrier off and set it up for a good smacking - only thing is the carrier is aluminium IIRC and ya dont wanna be breaking that with too much clonking.

Good news is 1 metric ton of rust is now off the car and in the bin :(

I really hate the previos owner of this car.

If I can stop taking bits off the thing you never know I might be able to drive it again one day lol.

Sory for any typos, the sugar rush from me vodka drink is just kicking in :(:(:(:(:(:(:(:P

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Be careful there Jon. Haven't worked on that part myself. Isn't the alloy carrier the part that breaks easily with too much force on that stuck bolt. May have to take it off for the penetrating oil and heat treatment.

DanR

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Well I smacked it hard enough to know it's not coming off wihtout a fight so usually I back off and have a thunk before going any further - I agree too much hitting will probably damage the carrier.

If I can get the drive shaft off it would be a lot easier :(

When I get the hub carrier off I'll try and twist it loose.

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Well I smacked it hard enough to know it's not coming off wihtout a fight so usually I back off and have a thunk before going any further - I agree too much hitting will probably damage the carrier.

If I can get the drive shaft off it would be a lot easier  :(

When I get the hub carrier off I'll try and twist it loose.

There was a thread about the hub carrier on here very recently I think, might be worth a search.

In the garage no-one can hear you scream 

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Yeah just found it in the V8 section - gonna have to be careful here becuase I wolloped it very hard (built like a brick outhouse me) and it didn't budge 1 iota.

gonna replace the stud with stainless anyways so I'll pop it in the vice and wiggle it out...looking at it I'm sure it's slightly bent as well but that could be the slight uphill castor angle.

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I found that my Esprit's 30 mm drive axle nuts were well held on with ~250 foot/pounds of torque. No amount of hand loosening with a breaker bar would budge it . . . . . the car would topple off the stands before the nut came free.

But 15 seconds with a 400 ft/lb impact hammer loosened it with a resulting small "cloud" of rust dust. That event "paid" for the purchase of the air compressor pretty much immediately.

AP

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I used a 2ft breaker bar to remove mine with the car on the ground, handbrake on and in gear obviously.

====

As for the lower link stud, I'm pretty certain I doused it in WD40 then used the breaker bar on the nut on the other side to rotate the shaft so that it freed it. Then just walloped the bugger out with a mallet - leaving the nut on the end and unwound as long as possible so as not to damage the thread.

Hey, can anyone smell fuel?????

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Phew - just finished. Thanks for the offer Jase but Halfwits to the rescue again (dunno why I call them that, saved me a few times recently - lol).

1) Me on newly purchased 30mm socket and old man on drive shaft (was turning the clutch) with 'betsy' (aka 24" pipe wrench) = no go

2) Added 4ft bar = no go

3) Heated the thing for 5mins = no go

4) Finally propped the pipe wrench against the chassis and tried, more heat, nearly lifted the car off the ground but finally it went....lol safe way to spend 1h30mins - loadsa fun.

Next job, getting that engineers stud out of the hub carrier which fixes the lower link arm and the rear shock absorber - winding it on a nut is a sound idea, although I think the bar is ever so slightly bent so it should be fun getting it off.

Did mine arse about face really - learn lessons for the other side but mainly becuase I didn't have the socket to do the driveshaft nut.....1st thing that should come off not the last :(

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Jon,

Take the carrier complete with pin and suspension bits and find someone with a nice big press! Local engineering firms or any motor specialist should have one.

Gently heat whilst applying the press and it will, with a fight, slide out. Think it was my post on the other thread, but it took literally tonnes of force registered on the press before it came out, all pieces intact.

Just needs care not to bust the carrier and when pressing, it needs to be well supported.

Simon

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A familiar story ! - Just had the same stud-in-carrier problem with my G s3. Took the hub carrier off completely along with attached lower link & after cutting stud in half (between link & carrier) and applying lots of heat (bush totally knackered) could screw one end off and bash out the other. (Thanks Hilly)

A messy job. Interestingly this was the near side one, the offside, although last touched 21 years ago came apart ok.

Hopefully, with joints that now actually move & new shocks the ride will be a bit less twitchy.

Good Luck !

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CUT THE STUD!! CUT THE STUD!!! CUT THE STUD!!!! Studs are cheap and you probably won't find a cheap intact hub carrier. Yes, I've been there!! Next... Changing the wheel bearing.....!

Scientists investigate that which already is; Engineers create that which has never been." - Albert Einstein

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I was contemplating cutting the lower link becuase they are cheap as well - it makes good sense other than wreaking a hub carrier. Anyways I've got it going away to a place with a bigger fly press than ours at work now, although when i mentioned I had bashed it, heated it and tried to press it out he was a little daunted - it's so so so stuck <_<

I'll give them permission to do what ever, even drilling it out - I just don't wanna break it.

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Just to add to the ode about the b****y stud - mine was stuck in three places - the ally bit - slightly - the link in the middle (steel on steel) big time, and the other carrier end - again steel on steel sleeve big time. The sleeve-in-ally came free first. If that hadn't worked it would have been drill out time at the engineering shop.

Cost of stud & bits. - about

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