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wayneb911

Rusty nuts how do you do yours!

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I'd leave it soak with penetrating oil then use one of these

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Impact-Stud-Extractor-Laser-3986_W0QQitemZ230428903095QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Hand_Tools_Equipment?hash=item35a6a206b7

I've used before & been amazed at how little they need to grip onto. 10mm shouldbe plenty.


Hooligan at heart.

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Think you'd need an air impact wrench with that beast... You could try heat masking the head with something cold and damp, then getting an oxy torch on the stud...followed by a good squirt from an aerosol freezer can. Repeated hot and cold ought to get the things moving...don't melt the head in the process!!

I recall sawing up a head on a Triumph Stag V8..there was no way it was ever coming off the studs, and butchery was the only recourse. My Esprit, first time apart, the exhaust side of the head had fallen apart with corrosion and the studs fell out..no thread left; you could pull them out with your fingers!!


Scientists investigate that which already is; Engineers create that which has never been." - Albert Einstein

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looks well known for me, use a small screwdriver -or hit it with a hammer on top of it. The aim is to free the gabs to penetrate it with some oil (see the rust around the stud that covers up the gab between stud & head).

If it does not help you can always apply some heat on it with a azetylen-flame. After that use one of those grippers.

Even if it does not grip -there is still enough to weld the nut on top of it (as advised earlier..)


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to name the things if I see them, that's what I call integrity..

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I'd blow torch the area get a bit of heat in to free it up slightly and then plus gas it (better than WD 40)to try and lubricate the threads

Think it will take a bit of time. Good Luck


Amateurs built the Ark

Professionals built the Titanic

"I haven't ridden in cars pulled by cows before" "Bullocks, Mr.Belcher" "No, I haven't, honestly"

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Does look like the threads may have been helicoiled. Could well end up as a machine shop jobbie; unless you have a very steady hand with a drill and can drill down the middle of the stud with successively larger drills before tapping and helicoiling. I don't give much hope for getting those studs out, sadly; if you manage it, tell us how you did it!! And use stainless ones next time...

Edited by molemot

Scientists investigate that which already is; Engineers create that which has never been." - Albert Einstein

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So can i heat it up and the spray WD straight on? Will the instant cooling be bad? How long shall i heat it and what should i heat up. The head??

Not very confident with things like this as worried about further damage.. May call out somone.

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Personnaly I'd use a plumbers blow torch to heat the stud up, let it cool a bit then WD 40 it. I think if you do it hot it will go up in flames. Plus Gas is supposed to be better for releasing rusty bolts etc as it penetrates better.

found this article: http://www.dimebank.com/tech/BrokenBolt.html


Amateurs built the Ark

Professionals built the Titanic

"I haven't ridden in cars pulled by cows before" "Bullocks, Mr.Belcher" "No, I haven't, honestly"

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the head is aluminium alloy -therefore not that heat resistant ! The stud on the other hand is steel... . If you heat up the whole section (namely the engine under running conditions..) n othing happens -but if you heat up the stud alone (until it starts slightly glowing on the edges..) and let it cool down after that you get some light 'stresses' in the threath. Thats starts to free the stud by weakening the rust. The oil is meant to penetrate into the natural existing gaps after that -as on every threath is an constructive gab (thats for example why you have to glue some threath application up , to get them watertight..).

But on the other hand it would be more simple to practise some skills in welding, and don't be shy. Even I (as someone who had to use those technics a lot in the years of service in the truck company..) can't get good gripp everytime on the first.. . With 10mm you have a lot of stud left to try to weld a nut on 3 times or so.. . If you get the spanner on the first time an the heat (from the MIG welder) was not transfered into the whole stud & threath by cooling naturally the nut will probably shear off the first time. So keep some more old nuts in spare (that's why I have an box with old nuts who have sheared old threads.. ) -those nuts can be usefull in such situations.


*********************************************************************

to name the things if I see them, that's what I call integrity..

*********************************************************************

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Hi Wayne,

Not sure how many you have got to do, but personally if your not happy with using a mig welder i would grind/file the surfacew of the bolt head perfectly flat, then centre punch a good hole right in the centre, using a good set of drill bits and by that i mean not the shite


A

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I know you're going to come over here and shoot me but,,,,,,,,,,,,, Have you seen this engine run, has anyone done a compression check, oil pressure? I know it would have to have been done before removal, Did it come with any sort of certificate? if it is an unknown entity I'd be worrying about instaslling just to find out it has low oil pressure or compression. That being the case I'd take the head off and take it to a machine shop.

:getmecoat:

:sofa:


Life is like a sewer, what you get out of it, depends on what you put into it. (Tom Leahrer)

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Engine only has a 2 month warranty but they offered a fitting service as well so i think buy doing that they are saying the engine is okay. Unfortunatelly unless you buy a whole car for the engine its a risk. These engines never the less are pretty strong old girld so hopefully it will be okay.

Danny.

Im at a loose end as to what to start with. Will try some heat when i get in the garage tonight and see how i get on with that first. If that fails i will then look at drilling it out. Broken bolts are my worst fear on engines!!

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you could have done it at least several times by now... :getmecoat:

Hope your fear isn't that big, would be strange to see that you go to the next optional engine.

PS. is the crankcase-breather just not cleaned properly -or why is there so much oil in the intake in front of the throttle-flap ??


*********************************************************************

to name the things if I see them, that's what I call integrity..

*********************************************************************

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Thought i would give it a go with the welder last night. Welded some nuts on and they just span off just as easily as the thing broke in the first place. Must be my welding. Think i may have to try and get it to a machine shop and have them done as i dont want to start drilling them out myself case i make further damage. Will a machine shop work on it as a whole engine though as dont really want to start pulling the head off!!

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Pull the heads off. For the cost of a gasket kit you get to satisfy yourself, on compression and valve seating.


Life is like a sewer, what you get out of it, depends on what you put into it. (Tom Leahrer)

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You're past the point of no return already!! You'll have to take the head off before it goes to a machine shop..and there's no point in getting this far without grinding the valves and setting the valve gaps. Lots of luvverly fun!! In six month's time you'll be an expert....!There's nothing quite so satisfying as home mechanics.


Scientists investigate that which already is; Engineers create that which has never been." - Albert Einstein

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If your don't want to strip, maybe call a mobile mechanic and see what they have to say?

They may well be able to do it in your garage in no time at all.

Gotta be worth a phone call!


Chunky Lover

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Wayne, Gutted you dont live locally as i would pop round and sort this for you, did you grind the old bolt back to shiny metal before you welded the nut on! also you need the welder set to a high power setting but slow wire feed! you need a good weld pool for it to stick i.e maltern larve! not just blobs! Studs are a bugger but not impossible you need to be a bit more posotive! from what you have done on your car so far you are more than capable of getting this sorted. try the welding again for one last attempt but practice on a few old bolts and nuts first until you get the correct setting, then try it for real. Then if that fails which it wont {posotive thinking} then try the drilling and extraccting as you will get it out this way beleive me. goood luck regards danny


A

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Danny

Thanks for the advice. I will have another go latter tonight. Regarding the nut i was trying to weld a larger nut on as well. The stud originally took a 13 which i tried to weld on and failed, then tried a 17. Would this be a good way? Think it may also be easier to lay the engine over slightly using the hoist and work on it a bit flatter. Contacted a local machine shop who said they can do it for

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Have you been soaking them with penetrating fluid?

You should have been doing that about 2 x a day since you first noticed.

Also, get it tipped over, it'll be much easier to work on and theres more chance of the fluid working that way!

Have you blocked up your exhaust ports? Get any of this crap in one of them holes and you'll do some decent damage.....


Chunky Lover

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Somin

Engine ports are blocked so nothing can fall in. Been soaking them evryday so far. Will let you know how i get on latter. Going to by some more nuts which are not coated just plain steel.

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Wayne if you grind down the studs at the top on the outside you should be able to slide a 13mm nut on. you must clean the stud as the weld will not ahere properly due to muck and a shite earth! Good luck regards danny

Danny


A

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This is all terribly exciting!

I know the stud WILL come out, its just a question of when and how.

Sweep stake?

I'd like to go for the weld.


"Intellectuals solve problems; geniuses prevent them." Albert Einstein

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three written exams within the next weeks, so I can't just come over :D

The thought with the bigger nut (as adviced earlier..) is there for the reason tha unskilled welders tend to weld the whole opening of the nut first, but there is no contact between the weldet material and the stud. So that's why it is best to use a bigger old nut (you should not need to by some.., just use old sheared nuts..) -if the nut is coated use some sandpaper or a grinder first, to make the top side clear. Place tthe nut over the stud, start with 'high Amp' setting (as adviced..) and only some wire 'spool up' time. Weld onto the stud until it glows and starts to melt, than go slightly outwards in a circle to attach the nut ! Damn easy, if you have set your welder propperly -the MIG-welder can be an univeral tool for any situations if you are 'trained' well.. .

Go on ! :wallbash:


*********************************************************************

to name the things if I see them, that's what I call integrity..

*********************************************************************

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Wish me luck. Off in the garage in min with a feel good approach and some new plain un coated nuts and a new handsfree welding mask!!

Out with the grinder to make sure the stud is cleaner and then onwords and hopefully outwards!!

To be continued.........construction.gif

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