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Cambelt questions

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Hello guys!!

I have some questions regarding cambelt replacement on V8.

I have done this so far:

Parked the crankshaft with the locking tool and put

the tolerance pin in each camshaft (4).

I have also removed the old cambelts.

My questions regards the fitting of the new belts.

1. What should I start with when assembel the new belts? I mean

which pulley should I start with, the crankshaft or camshaft pulleys?

2. I think it should be no extra tooth between the camshaft pulleys, but it seems

to be an extra tooth if I not move the camshaft slightly??

I will just have some help with the fitting of the new belts, tip !!

Cheers Niclas

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Upgrade today to remove Google ads and support TLF.

Ok thanks, I have read the info on LEW!

But I wan't a more detailed info regarding the replacement.

more like step by step!

Niclas

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Hello again!

I really want an answer if anyone knows something about this?

I mean someone must have change there timing belt once or more!!?

Question like this:

1. Which pin shuld I use setting pins or tolerance pin, I think it must be

the setting pins, the tolerance is just to check the timing,,right!?

Setting pins larger diameter 4,7mm tolerance 4,2mm

2. Which pulley should I start with when I assembel the belt??

3.Step by step!

Could someone help me with this issue??

Thanks!!

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The service notes have a good step by step guide. It may be online somewhere but I can scan in the page and mail it to you if you can't find it. In summary, use the settings pins and start with the RH bank inlet pulley.

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Thanks for the service notes, but I still have some questions!

My car is my:1997, and I have some old service notes regarding replacement of

the cambelt, I think the notes are from 1996 or 1997.

The new uppdated notes I got from Mark is from 2001 and they were completely

different from the old once.

In the new notes you must release the camshaft pulley bolt, I don't now why??

And if you must remove the camshaft pulley bolts you have to have special tools for holding the camshafts and also remove the covers for the camshafts.!?

My question is have there been any mayor changes on the camshafts during the years or what??

Please respond, regards Niclas

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Hello guys!!

I have some questions regarding cambelt replacement on V8.

I have done this so far:

Parked the crankshaft with the locking tool and put

the tolerance pin in each camshaft (4).

I have also removed the old cambelts.

My questions regards the fitting of the new belts.

1. What should I start with when assembel the new belts? I mean

which pulley should I start with, the crankshaft or camshaft  pulleys?

2. I think it should be no extra tooth between the camshaft pulleys, but it seems

to be an extra tooth if I not move the camshaft slightly??

I will just have some help with the fitting of the new belts, tip !!

Cheers Niclas

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Niclas,

I just installed my belts a couple weeks ago, I have also done nearly 100 timing belts changes on various other models (porsche, Lotus 908, Mitsubishi)when I was a professional tech. Anyway, I did not find it possible to get the belt into the position I wanted without moving the crank a bit and one of the cams for each bank. You want to have a good conceptual understanding of what you are trying to accomplish befor releasing a locator pin or moving the crank. You also want to have a solid grip on the wrench on the cam bolt before pulling the locating pin. The cam will want to rotate due to the tension of the valvesprings against the cam lobes. The key is to try to fit the belt so that any slack is on the side with the tensioner. The belt is actually stretched fairly tight between the two camshaft pulleys so that you do not have an extra tooth left over when you are finished. This is why I found it necessary to pull one cam locating pin and rotate the cam slightly to fit the belt, then to rotate the cam back to position. I also applied the same principle with the crank so that it would be somewhat tight on the crank side. Once you have it fitted re-insert your timing tools and make sure everything is dead right. Then take the slack out of the belt with the tensioners and rotate the crank 360 degrees. Recheck that all your tools fit. i usually do another 360 degree rotation at this point just as a tripple-check. then set your tension and re-check. I hope this helps. BTW I found some swearing was also necessary when doing this on my car.

Rod


Rod

98 Esprit V8

Dynamic Racing Turbos

Water Injection

Factory Red ECU

3 bar MAP piggyback

Straight-through exhaust

TurboXS BOVs

Blitz I-color boost control + Wide-band AFR

Porsche/Getrag G50/52 Transmission (...coming soon someday)

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Thanks Rod for the info it was very good!

If I get you right you don't need to take off the cam covers, you just turn

the camshaft on M12 bolt without removing the covers!?

I still wounder about the tension on the belt, in the service notes you must

have a freqense tool (Galvis) to messure the tension.

But I have heard the you shuld recheck the tension every 12mounth, is that right?

And what happen if you don't recheck it that often.?

Could you smasch the engine or what??

Cheers Niclas

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Thanks Rod for the info it was very good!

If I get you right you don't need to take off the cam covers, you just turn

the camshaft on M12 bolt without removing the covers!?

I still wounder about the tension on the belt, in the service notes you must

have a freqense tool (Galvis) to messure the tension.

But I have heard the you shuld recheck the tension every 12mounth, is that right?

And what happen if you don't recheck it that often.?

Could you smasch the engine or what??

Cheers Niclas

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

That is correct, no reason to remove the cam covers. Also remember, I am only talking about very small rotations of the cam and crank (only a tooth or so worth)

Tension is critical. 12 months seems a bit excessive for regular maintenance, but I would recheck tension after a few hundred miles from your first tension. This allows for any belt stretch or any errors you may have made the first time.

If the timing is off you can bend a bunch of expensive valves. The price of this job is very reasonable at your dealer, if in doubt, its not a bad option. I am using the guitar tuning software on my laptop instead of the expensive clavis gauge.

Regards,

Rod


Rod

98 Esprit V8

Dynamic Racing Turbos

Water Injection

Factory Red ECU

3 bar MAP piggyback

Straight-through exhaust

TurboXS BOVs

Blitz I-color boost control + Wide-band AFR

Porsche/Getrag G50/52 Transmission (...coming soon someday)

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Hello Rod,

what guitar software and what kind of microphone do you use for tensioning your timing belt. Is the setup able to measure between 100 and 110 Hz ? (This is the correct tension for the timing belt of my 4 cylinder silver arrow).

Freek


Esprit Freak

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Hello Rod,

what guitar software and what kind of microphone do you use for tensioning your timing belt. Is the setup able to measure between 100 and 110 Hz ? (This is the correct tension for the timing belt of my 4 cylinder silver arrow).

Freek

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I downloaded the software from http://www.zeta.org.au/~dvolkmer/tuneit.html . I even paid for the actual version. Its only $29.00 US. Since I was saving ~$2,800 on a clavis gauge I figured it was the right thing to do. I also just bought a decent PC mike for about $30.00 at a PC store. I do believe it will measure to the range you need. Download the demo for free and confirm.

Good Luck,

Rod


Rod

98 Esprit V8

Dynamic Racing Turbos

Water Injection

Factory Red ECU

3 bar MAP piggyback

Straight-through exhaust

TurboXS BOVs

Blitz I-color boost control + Wide-band AFR

Porsche/Getrag G50/52 Transmission (...coming soon someday)

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