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winners

Long Distance Diagnosis

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I know long distance diagnosis is all but impossible but I just want some ideas. The forum is good at supplying these!

On hard accelaration from a standing start I get a metallic clunk from the front N/S wheel area. It doesn't appear to happen at any other time, and doesn't happen all the time. I have looked for anything obvious but can't see anything.

Anyone any ideas?

Thanks

Mark

Edited by winners

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Upgrade today to remove Google ads and support TLF.

I'd start by checking the anti roll bar bush on the lower wishbone...and the trunnion, too.

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Have you noticed any unusual movement from the suspect wheel when lifted and given a good tug? Lift the car and grab the wheel at the 12 and 6 0'clock position and try to wiggle it back and forth. If you have movement (even slight) it could indicate either bad or misadjusted wheel bearing, or paying close attention to the spindle mounts, it could indicate other suspension components.

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I second molemot's idea. The bolt holding the ARB worked loose and I had exactly the noise you described. Added a spring washed and torqued her up properly and she's been fine ever since.

Pete

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I'm going with a bush as well. Don't know which one, but that's the fun of it.

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I had this once, couldn't find it, even padded out the wheel brace and jack in the nose. The bottom stabalising strut to the raidiator had broken and was just resting there, obviously except under hard acceleration. Mines an 88 so maybe yours is different, just that noises don't always come from where you think.

One thing you can try with a mate or the Missus. Foot hard on brake try to drive forward (gently) and then back, etc, see if you can make something clunck and pin point the source.

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One thing you can try with a mate or the Missus.

I honestly thought your next line was going to be 'get them to lay in the front hatch and listen for noises whilst you drive about!'

My mind is a strange place at times! :D

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Hi, Looking for more ideas.

I have taken wheel off and checked bushes as well as trying to move the wheel in the 6 o'clock position...nothing. Bouncing the suspension again, nothing.

When driving the noise appears to come more from behind the Centre of the dash area than the wheel. It only happens when accelerating from a standing start and as yet never at any other time, eg. bumps or braking.

Any one got any ideas where else I can look?

Mark

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I honestly thought your next line was going to be 'get them to lay in the front hatch and listen for noises whilst you drive about!'

My mind is a strange place at times! :thumbsup:

What a great idea!

:yes:

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Pads moving in the calipers? - can get surprisingly loud clicks/clunks from those. The Missus' MX5 rattled like crazy and got the odd loud click until I replaced the shims in on the front brakes.

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OK guys I thought I'd put this out there again. I've checked all of the above at all seems OK. The car even passed it's MOT on Monday so can't see that they'd be a problem with any suspension bushes.

There is not noise when hitting bumps or braking, only on hard acceleration. The noise may even be coming from closer to the middle of the car. Could it be a gear linkage as the tension is taken when accelerating?

Any ideas, I'm stumped.:ermm:

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Have you checked engine and gearbox mounts, as a transmission line shunt could result in things contacting where they are not supposed to, and that could sound almost anywhere?

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Well things have progressed...sort of. Another problem with misfire took priority and was eventually tracked to a loose LT wire in the distributor!

The knock however is still there. I have analysed more and the following findings are starting me off in a different direction.

1) Took a mate on a run and he wasn't sure the noise was from the front.

2) Difficulty pulling off at low revs smoothly

3) Noise only there when engine takes the strain.

Could this be drive shaft / UJ related and are there any common acurrances of this or ways of narrowing it down more? Checking UJ's etc.

Thanks in advance.

Mark

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It does sound to me like engine mounts. They are known for failing on the S1 S2 cars and allowing the engine to develop IIRC fore and aft movement. As Andy says have you checked them?

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Go for a drive with the engine cover off and with a passenger. When you accelerate ask your passenger to look back at the engine and see if there is any engine lift / rotation. When my engine mount failed, left one by the exhaust manifold, you could clearly see excessive engine movement when looking back at the engine.

To check the UJ's, and bearings, find a hill that you can safely coast down at some speed. Before you go down the hill lower the windows so you can hear any strange noises. If you have UJ or bearing issues you will hear the tell tell noises as you coast down the hill. Leave the engine idling as you do this so there is vacuum to the brake servo.

I sometimes get a little knocking from the lower UJ on the steering column. You'd feel that in the steering wheel if you had that, so I doubt it's that.

Not sure I helped but best of luck.

Edited by GavinS1

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Thanks Mat.

Thanks Gavin. I am not that good at diagnosis so this "idiots" guide is excellent. My experience of "oily bits" is basically gathered from when things break I put them back on or back together so something like this I stuggle with.

Will try out the suggestions over weekend and update.

Thanks again

Mark

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When I got my S1 I bombarded Tony K with a bunch of what's this and what's that questions. Most of what I know came via Tony's guidance.

The first time I jacked my S1 up I discovered the left side engine mount had failed. There was no heat shield and it had been baked to a crisp in less than 3000 miles. You should check and be sure your car has the heat shield. Then I broke a stud on the exhaust manifold trying to access the engine mount. So in the first 100 miles of ownership I had the joyous experience of removing the exhaust manifold and replacing the engine mount.

Gav

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Speaking of shielding the motor mount:. I removed the stock LH front shield when I installed SS headers on my S2 because it would interfere(or was too close). Instead I wrapped the motor mount in home insulation fiberglass with an outer layer of thick aluminum foil to contain it and tie wrapped it with a few pieces of copper wire. It has held up for many thousands of miles and years. I previously had cooked a few mounts with the stock shield and manifold.

YMMV, but I'm quite happy with it. thumbsup.gif

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If it is the engine mounts, head over to the Yahoo S1/S2/S3 group and have a surf about. Tim Engel has written some very good stuff regarding updating them with Turbo Esprit engine mounts.

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