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Temperature sender.


wern

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Hi all,continuing the saga of my water temperature.The problem is the gauge reads around 70 when warmed up (use to be just below 90).To start with I stupidly changed the original thermostat,still read the same (anyone want to buy a second hand stat!!).Steve at SJ suggested either the voltage stabilizer or sender,as I thought the petrol gauge read low (also contolled by the stabilizer I changed that) ,still no difference.Now that leaves the sender which I am loathe to change as the pipe it screws into would require rewelding if it sheared off trying to remove it,brass into alluminium and it doesnt budge (has anyone tried to remove it successfully?).My question is,has anyone seen or heard of a sender that could attach to the outside of the pipe with a strap.I know the engine temperature is correct as the fans now cut in 20 degrees lower than before.I know it only a small thing but it annoying and I am determinned to cure it now GRRRRRR!

Help..Paul 84T.

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Howdy,

After my engine was rebuilt my water temp was around 65>70. Be thankful that yours might be cold..... I had a fan failure AND the fan failure system failed! Leaving me with one very hot and bothered engine!

I am working with a company that has a box of tricks to attatch to older cars that will measure Cylinder head, water, oil, exhaust, fuel flow, RPM, engine hours and other things around the engine bay. You can them down load the stats of the drive you had into your home PC/laptop to see what is going on etc.. Price is around

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Hi Curly

Shameless product endorsment :) Can you PM me more info? Being a rather pessimistic sod, I'd like the heads-up on whats going on in that lump of metal in the back of my car.

Thanks - Mark

P.S. - Got your car as a wallpaper on my PC. Mine's exactly the same spec. Only difference is I have gold inserts on the rims on my car.

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Hi Paul

Regarding your question...

"has anyone seen or heard of a sender that could attach to the outside of the pipe with a strap"

- I use one on my modified Street Mini. You can get them for different operating temperatures - Can't remember the name, but I'll have a look this weekend and post the details. My mechanic services race cars and will probably know what to suggest as well.

Will let you know - Mark

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Thanks Mark,look forward to your info.I have borrowed a remote temperature gauge to check all round the pipework this weekend,I am interested to see what the temp is at the heater matrix.Thanks for the info curly John,but the system seems a bit drastic to me when I only want the water temp.! I am trying to keep my car looking as original as possible rather than the bridge of the Starship Enterprise,no satnav and Road Angels for me,think I will just stick to 30mph. and drve to the post office to pick up my pension!!

Cheers Paul 84T.

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Howdy,

I am working with a company that has a box of tricks to attatch to older cars that will measure Cylinder head, water, oil, exhaust, fuel flow, RPM, engine hours and other things around the engine bay. You can them down load the stats of the drive you had into your home PC/laptop to see what is going on etc.. Price is around

S4 Elan, Elan +2S, Federal-spec, World Championship Edition S2 Esprit #42, S1 Elise, Excel SE

 

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Thanks AJay,did you replace yours because of a low reading? Paul

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

No. i was suffering from a high reading on the gauge but the ifra red thermometer was showing 79 degrees at the temperature sender. Still showing nearly 90 of the gauge though.

Don't worry now unless it reached 95-100 degrees.

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I have put a remote meter on the alluminium pipe today and got 83 at normal running temperature,spot on for the stat.The cars gauge was reading about 70.Then when the fans cut in the gauge was reading about 84 but the meter was reading 90 so I am happy now.As for biting the bullet and undoing the sender,perhaps a few drinks first !!! Paul 84T.

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Don't know if it's of any interest but my car (1982 S3) seems to run constantly at 70 degrees. I haven't had it long and to start with I assumed that the gauge must be broken so considered buying another. After stripping out the whole cooling system and fixing the fans - neither of which worked I put it back together and it still runs at a steady 70 degrees. Obviously it heats up if left standing for a while and the fans do now cut in at about 90. My fuel gauge seems a bit doubtful though - could someone explain the previously mentioned link between the readings of the gauges? I naively assumed they were totally seperate?

I have recently done several 200 mile + journeys and apart from the leaky sunroof, broken heater, knackered windscreen wiper and dodgy battery the car has been great! Love the website,

Scotty

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Both gauges are electrical and,to be accurate, they must operate from a constant voltage supply. Otherwise, high volts = high readings. The constant voltage is derived from a three terminal solid state electronic device called - surprise! - a voltage regulator. This is hidden somewhere in the binnacle ( I think). Both gauges are suplied from the same voltage regulator, so if both are reading high with no apparent reason, suspect the regulator. I once bought a VW Polo very cheaply; after a few miles it indicated it was overheating, massive temp reading, flashing lights, the lot. Turned out to be the flexible printed circuit earth track to the voltage regulator earth terminal; 10 min. with a piece of wire and a soldering iron and all was calm once more --- but I knew why the previous owners had accepted my offer of

Edited by molemot

Scientists investigate that which already is; Engineers create that which has never been." - Albert Einstein

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Hi Scotty,the voltage regulator affects both temperature and fuel gauges so if they both read low that is probably the problem but as your fans cut in at 90(the correct temperature) I suspect your stat could be sticking open otherwise your normal running temp. should be higher as the stat. operates at 82.Does the temp. stay at a constant 70 or varies under normal driving? Incidentally the voltage stabilizer is bolted to the back of the temperature gauge and takes about 30 minutes to change.Hope this helps,Paul 84T.

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Guys, thanks for the advice. I changed the thermostat at the same time as fixing the fans and am pretty sure it works. I tested it by having someone keep a hand on the radiator when starting the car from cold with the new thermostat. As expected it stayed cold until the temp gauge reached 80ish then it warmed up as the thermostat opened at 82. My reasoning was that this proved the thermostat was working. Either the voltage regulator is knackered or my car just runs cold?! Better than hot I suppose.

Cheers again,

Scotty

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  • 2 weeks later...

Scotty,

Just realized, when I modified my wiring harness I forgot to reinstall the v. stabilizer and I have chased the high gauge reading to no avail.. I will put it in soon to see what the reading drops down to. Two other items which complicate matters: I am running a 14.9v single wire reg. in my alternator and have made extremely drastic changes to the cooling sys.. Will let you know how it turns out. Lee

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  • 2 weeks later...

Scotty, reinstalled the voltage stabilizer, and the needle is stable just above the second line on the gauge between the 50c and 90c lines. Maybe someone can tell us what the values are on those second and 4th lines?????

The gauge was reading just above the 4th line, between the 90c and 120c lines, w/o the stabilizer. This is such a vast difference I couldn't believe it! I did verify my coolant temp. w/a mechanical gauge in the header tank @ 175F.

The indicated temp now duplicates, very closely, the temp I experienced before all the mods! Couldn't be happier!!! Hopefully, this will hold true for the upcoming warm season! At least I can trust the gauge now!!!

Remember, the voltage stabilizer made a HUGE difference in the gauge reading!!!!

Best of luck,Lee

Edited by Esprit Aviation
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  • 13 years later...
On 21/02/2006 at 15:29, AJay said:

Paul

 

Probably no help but i replaced mine last summer. Bit the bullet and undone with a suitable socket, it came out OK, but dont blame me if it goes wrong.

Paul or anyone really, where would I get the temperature switch or sender, the one that screws into the side of the water pipe? I need to replace mine and can't find one.

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1 hour ago, Jason Gareau said:

Paul or anyone really, where would I get the temperature switch or sender, the one that screws into the side of the water pipe? I need to replace mine and can't find one.

Where have you tried?

Cheers,

John W

http://jonwatkins.co.uk

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On 10/01/2020 at 03:37, Jason Gareau said:

Paul or anyone really, where would I get the temperature switch or sender, the one that screws into the side of the water pipe? I need to replace mine and can't find one.

I would think it's a Smith so Merlin Motorsport or Demon Tweeks.

https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p/smiths-temperature-sender-1-8npt-cb-ts-18

https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/smiths-oil-water-temperature-sender-for-classic-gauges-smitt6811-01/

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  • 3 weeks later...

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