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Hi all, my rear speakers are infinity reference speaker and should be good but the upshot of my discussions was that a subwoofer is a must, the new speakers FOCUS are i think a 2 way ii carbon weave main cone and a seperate drive in the centre, sound good but you reallly cannot get good sound due to the location of the speakers, I am going to buy a sub, not sure of the name it may be Focus again, think its around £250 so it should be reasonnable.

Will let you know.

Dave

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  • 2 weeks later...

Upgrade today to remove Google ads and support TLF.

Does anybody know the size of the rear speakers in an 88 Stevens, I'm sure it's in the manual somewhere but I can't find it, so it's easier to ask than go pull a speaker out to measure it. (it's raining)

Life is like a sewer, what you get out of it, depends on what you put into it. (Tom Leahrer)

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Hi Roger

The ones that came out of mine were Alpine 6.5" round speakers. When you replace them, make sure to screw them directly to the wooden bulkhead and not through the carpet as originally supplied. ( where did that bass suddenly come from ?rolleyes.gif )

Too many Toys are never enough !

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Hi Roger

The ones that came out of mine were Alpine 6.5" round speakers. When you replace them, make sure to screw them directly to the wooden bulkhead and not through the carpet as originally supplied. ( where did that bass suddenly come from ?rolleyes.gif )

Is that the outer circumference of the speaker or the hole to mount it ? and Oogie raises a good point how deep ?

Life is like a sewer, what you get out of it, depends on what you put into it. (Tom Leahrer)

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Roger,

In case it is still raining there...and since I can not make engine noise with my car at this point I figured I would install the speakers and play a USB file of an exhaust note...lol.

Diametre of the hole is 13cm ( approximately 5 and 1/8th inches )

At the top of the speaker the depth is 5cm ( approximately 2 inches ) from the carpet to the bulkhead. At the bottom of the speaker the depth is 10cm ( approximately 3 and 7/8th inches ) from carpet to the bulkhead. In centre of speaker with a flat edge acros the diametre the depth is 8.5cm ( approximately 3 and 5/16th inches ) from carpet to bulkhead.

Hope that helps.

Christopher

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  • 2 weeks later...

OK I've succumbed hope.gif, I put the new speakers in the front. removing the old ones I found the rubber had perished, and I'm happy with with new sound. So happy in fact I bit the bullet and got new ones for the rear. Some one has already mentioned this but I need to clarify, the old ones were mounted/screwed through 1 layer of carpet and 2 of sound deadening material, my belief is that I will get better performance from my new speakers if they are mounted firmly to the bulkhead not through spongy carpet and sound deadning stuff. So fair question, why was more care not taken on the production line ? yes.gif

Life is like a sewer, what you get out of it, depends on what you put into it. (Tom Leahrer)

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Roger,

Having just replaced mine, prior to the car going back to the Lotus dealership, I had a similar thought. The only theory I could conclude was this: Too difficult to trim around the speaker where it is mounted and make the carpet look finished without fabrication or time spent. Also concluded that Group Lotus was concentrating more on the engine and handling. Obvious to the quality of the stereo components.

What I ended up doing was removing the foam padding from the carpet in the area of the circumference of the speaker. I then proceeded to use the speaker to hold the carpet down tight to the wood. I will in the near future readdress this, as I know that I want to redo the carpets in the car. I figure after removal of the carpet I can mount the speaker in the rear bulkhead. Then install and lock in the new carpet by utilising the speaker grille. As the speakers I have chosen have the ability to do such a method.

Side note on the front speakers:

I did have to use an extension rod and my miniature right angle drill attachment on my cordless drill in order to drill new mounting holes for the front speakers. Having the appropriate tools to install the screws was a key factory in installation. Somewhere along the line the PO had for whatever reason removed the speakers. Only two screws in each speaker were holding them in place. This might explain some of the annoying rattles from the dash. I will see once I have the car back.

Side note on the rear speakers:

Much easier to install with the seats removed. As with the front speakers the PO had only two screws in each rear speaker. The ones on the top side where the seat back was furthest away.

Side note on the self powered Subwoofer:

I have the remote installed in the centre console storage area. My only glove box, as I have the dual SIR. The unit will ultimately mount behind the passengers seat. I will have to leave the seat forward on the rails, actually matching where I have the drivers seat set. So someone, whom is 6 feet or a bit, will still be comfortable in their seating position. I will post a few photographs once I get the car back.

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I have fitted my new rear speakers, on the drivers side I have removed the carpet around the edge so the speaker will mount tight up against the wood. but of course you do loose depth on the mounting. I'm going to do the passanger side tomorrow, just remove the seats, plenty of room to work then.

Chris

Amateurs built the Ark

Professionals built the Titanic

"I haven't ridden in cars pulled by cows before" "Bullocks, Mr.Belcher" "No, I haven't, honestly"

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Hi Chris, when I did my rears I used the plastic speaker ring to draw around and cut out 2 rings in MDF, these I cut around to remove the carpet and the insulation, this way the speakers stay and hte same distance but are ridgely fixed. Work quite well really.

Dave.................PS get that bloody car started ............................scooter.gif

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  • 2 months later...

Updating this thread as I've just finished installing the slimline Kenwood active sub mentioned by Christopher.

The Kenwood unit comes with a wiring loom which is designed with an estate or maybe even a small coach in mind and so I ended up cutting it back quite a lot. No RCA leads supplied only connects for attaching to speaker outputs The unit has to have the wired remote volume control attached otherwise it does not work, and as it uses a Cat5 style connector I wasn't prepared to shorten it. I ended up hiding quite a lot of cable under the centre console arm pad and I located the control pod in the same place that Chris selected.

I fitted the unit on the bottom of the bulkhead behind the pasenger seat. I could not fit it centrally behind the seat as there were some bolts in the way which made a neat flush fit difficult. In order to preserve the maximum rear travel on the seat I cut out an area of the sound insulation material on the bulkhead that matched the shape of the sub unit, refitted the carpet and mounted the unit to the car body through the carpet. That gave me about 3/4 of an inch extra travel on the seat so its possible to move the seat to it's futhest extent and still have an air gap (small!) in front of the speaker grill.

I had already fitted the car with a quite reasonable Alpine 9880 head unit and lurking behind the original Blaupunkt speaker grills I'd fitted replacement Alpine speakers about 12 months ago. Although these were a distinct improvement on the originals (20+ year old speakers and the foam cone suspension rings were just starting to go), but even though they were mounted correctly the system still lacked in bottom end. Not so any more!

Normally Aspirated - and lovin' it!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Finished installing the Subwoofer. Colin I too had to chuckle at the amount of all the cables. Fortunately I have a Cat5 crimping tool and connectors due to my normal work. I cannot imagine having to stuff all of that spare cable under the centre console arm pad. Hiding the remote inside though I found was the best place to tuck it away. As slim as it was it was a more than perfect fit. I took split loom and tidied up all of the cables. Went to my local electronics store and purchased the shortest RCA male and male cables available. I have yet to modify the carpet as yourself. Plan to redo over the winter and will fully secure at that time. Like the idea that you obtained the extra 0.75" on the passengers seat slide back.

I must say I am pleased with the sound that the unit provides. With top of the line Kenwood speakers I am pleased with the sound. Winter will lead to tweeters being installed on the "A" pillars to complete the whole system.

Since I listen to a variety of music it is nice to be able to make adjustments right from the centre console. My next little project whilst I am making some part moulds will be to get the remote for the SatNav/ Main head unit installed in its own little area. Find that will be easier to work the stereo whilst driving if I can mold it into the drivers door arm rest.

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Yes Colin, that's what I was looking for. Thank you!

I'm wondering how these Kenwoods compare to the JL Audio 6.5" subs which can be made to fit in the existing rear speaker location. I had these in my last S4s and they were just OK but did make a nice clean installation.

JL audo

1995 S4s

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Jim,

I will add some photographs later tonite / tomorrow as mine looks quite different than Colins.

Well photographs taken of the remote installation and location of the subwoofer.

Jim I had looked at placing subs in the existing rear but decided that I did not want to lose the rear three way speakers. The exceptional thing about my Kenwood system is it allows me to digitally increase the rear speaker volume ( not a fade control, hard to explain but the fader is different ) to offset the fact they are behind the seats. Also allows me to digitally / virtually " move " the speaker. I can programme this for three separate setups. NIce when just me in the car to balance out the sound, or different when passenger is available.

Remote is attached with velcro inside the bit of glovebox we have in the Federal Esprit S4. The Cat5 cable goes out through a hole I drilled and straight down to the subwoofer. Fairly easy to reach even when driving. Must say height of the remote does not hinder the closing of the lid one bit.

post-4361-032450400 1283216743.jpg

As I wrote earlier. I just have this sitting behind the seat. At first I worried that the subwoofer was not going to push any air being against the seat back. However the design of my Kenwood subwoofer has a built in air gap behind the grill. It has offered plenty of the bass I was trying to obtain. So far as I have been running the car to specialist for the dealership fiasco the unit has worked great with no overheating. It has been through a few upper 90F temperatures with more heat from the bulkhead. I must thank Dave Freeman for once again placing a great idea out there. And Bibs for pointing me in the direction of the self powered subwoofers.

post-4361-075352400 1283217300.jpg

Jim hopes this also makes the thread a bit better to the addition of Colin's postings.

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I seem to be commenting on this thread far too late to be of any immediate help, however...

I use an Alpine SWE 1000 powered sub which I've stuffed into the glovebox, facing the floor. As you can see, it still allows a reasonable amount of space in the glovebox for putting 'things', yet to the outside world the dashboard and cabin looks stock. I've covered the sides in carpet so it's not such an obvious shiny silver thing when the lid is opened. The weight of it is supported by the metal cross brace under the dash. There were one or two minor car wiring and heater pipe issues to sort out, but nothing required removing or chopping, just repositioning.

It's one of these:

SWE-1000.jpg

And it lives in here, you can just make out the controller for it wedged down on the bottom right hand side behind the Ipod. (Ignore the controller on the top, it's for the 5.1 amp) It can be controlled either by the headunit or for simply increasing or decreasing its output, I've installed a rotory knob next to the petrol flap release behind the gearlever. (98 spec dash layout)

2010-08-16001002.jpg

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Soundwise, it's fine. Obviously it has its limitations and nothing beats the sheer amount of air being moved by a brace of 18" JLs, but for an infill of lowish bass noises it's perfectly adequate for a cabin as small as the Esprit.

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That's very clever, and nicely done!

My glove box is made of what is essentially folded cardboard and while it's still capable of holding my gloves and the odd packet of replacement fuses, it would disintegate into a thousand pieces if I tried to install something like that in it!

Normally Aspirated - and lovin' it!

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The later cars aren't much different in design, just the materials are slightly longer lasting. I removed the pre-formed glovebox inards, mounted the sub onto the cross beam and built up the remaining area with hardboard and glassfibre. It really isn't a difficult install.

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  • 1 month later...

I have replaced front speakers with 4" Audiopipe 150W speakers without taking the pod out!!!

I tried many "trick" tools and I found that some fancy screw drivers and small Makita 90 degree driver will do the job. If you nassume a " Croutching Dragon" position above the door sill, you will be able to squeeze your left hand between the A pillar trim and left bottom side of the pod while the right hand will operate tools in the space above the pod.

post-11050-085320100 1288110933.jpg

Edited by MrDangerUS
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  • 3 months later...

Hi all. This is my first time posting although I have reading for quite some time (hoping to pick up a S4 in the not so distant future).

As some one who has done extensive installs in my previous vehicles, I have some ideas on what to install in the way of stereo.

For true sound quality (ie proper sound staging) all the vocals and instruments should be infront of you. This means that only subs should be behind you, and if you place coaxials in the bulkhead like factory it will ruin your sound stage. While I realize that Lotus didn't really consider speaker placement when designing the Esprit, I think you can get good sound with the right set up.

If you run a nice 4" in the dash and add a tweeter in the pillars (or even on the dash if you preffer) and a pair of 6.5 subs in the factory rear location, you should get a good overall performance.

You will never win any competitions, but I think 90% of people will be more than happy with this set up.

To help make things easier on you guys I will make a few suggestions.

Tweeters

http://www.madisound.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=633

or

http://www.parts-express.com/wizards/searchResults.cfm?searchFilter=nd20%20dayton

Mids

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=264-847

or

https://www.madisound.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=45_228_253&products_id=820

Subs

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=264-832

Obviously you will need amps and crossovers for this set up, but if you want good sound you should plan on amping any set up you have,deck power isn't nearly enough.

Edited by doggboy
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