free hit
counters
Coolant flush and renew - Engine/Ancilliaries - The Lotus Forums Jump to content
kevin

Coolant flush and renew

Recommended Posts

I have a 2001 Esprit V8 twin turbo and want to flush and change the coolant for maintenance does any one know the procedure to complete the job including the purging

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Upgrade today to remove Google ads and support TLF.

Do a search, it's been discussed a few times on here and there are guides I'm sure. It's also detailed in the owners handbook, if not the workshop manual and is a pretty easy task helped by a very accessible bleed screw which you can see from the front left wheelarch. A little tip is to keep the car nose down, helps bleed air out towards the end of the procedure.

Welcome to the forum :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

thanks Ive been searching for a post but havent been able to locate any discusion on renewing the coolant

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Bibs, I know you have bought a lot of :) tools ..and you only want to help - as so:

front left wheelarch on top of the radiator is the bleeder, that's right .....but the radiator drain screw is not so perfect positioned on the lower right side of the radiator (right wheelarch) -access for tools/screwdriver its slightly blocked by reinforced plastic panels of the undertray.. .

Advice is in any case don't touch the drain screw, as for the risks of a damn seized thing. Just open the hose-clips in the same left front-wheelarch as for the bleeder screw, hose clips are next to the T-pipe section.. .

After refilling a additional bleeder screw (small allen key) can be used on top of the water ellbow-pipe in front of the engine. But again, possibility of seized screw have to be in mind. So the advice with a small car lift and axle stands on the back work best. Lift the car up on rear, and let the engine run for full heat cycle (*fans will kicking in*, use interior heater on 'hot position' additionally to get all air bubbles out ..) and wile you have lifted up the car on the rear with more access to the RH rear-wheelarch: fill up the overflow reservour up to the top. If the car is on a neutral ground level and you have driven your car the overflow-system will regulate its level by itself.... (levels of water in the cooling system reservour and in the wheelarch will equalise..)

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just to add a couple of things, when refilling put the coolant/antifreeze in first mine is 2.8 liters in this climate, check yours.

I flushed mine with a product I bought from our local raidiator guy, I believe it's worth doing. Like Gunter says use the hoses rather than the taps, there is an air bleed at the top of the raidiator passenger side when refilling.

When refilling keep the back as high as you can get it, and fill very slowley from a garden hose, mine took anout 20 minutes, but no air bleed issues.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've recently flushed mine and it took forever to put the coolant back in the radiator. Definitely lots of work and could take up to 2 hrs.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

on which car do you refer -your Nissan 350Z ?!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It is probably a good idea to add Red Line Water Wetter to the mix, if you can get it. Really helps the bearings and aids the whole effectiveness of the coolant.

clicky

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Tell me more about water wetter, do mix it with water, distilled water, any other coolants or inhibitors, and in what sort of ratios?

I'd like try it see what effects it has.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I did some 'research' about water wetter last year. It seems it can be used instead of 'normal' coolant additives like glycol based products, just one bottle added to water in the cooling system provides corrosion protection and lubricates the water pump etc. Some people also add it to their normal coolant mixture, but I have read that the polymers in the water wetter can react to the glycol mix and cause a slimy film to start coating the inside of the system.

Some reviews of the product claim it works well, others say it makes no difference at all. There's plenty of reviews on t'internet about it. I didn't add it to mine in the end, I just reduced the coolant mixture to 30/70 which seems to have made a small difference. My temp gauge rarely goes over 90 now, especially with those 40 degree summer days finally behind us.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The only problem with using any sort of agressive flushing agent is that it may highlight weak spots by removing some of the 'crap' (technical term) which is reinforcing any weak spots internally. That said, it would only be a matter of time before they gave out anyway.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My cooling system is in good shape, if I avoid traffic and keep it down around 82 deg,,,,,,,,, mucho boooooooost, go over 90 deg (stuck in traffic) about .8 is all I see. So keeping cool is much more fun.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I went from the green coolant to the orange coolant(extended life) and added water wetter. It did make a difference to the running temperature. Just add a bottle of the stuff to your coolant mix when refilling the system.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

would say -only possible difference in temperatures is bythe difference in 'temp-compensation' of water compared with pure Glycohlene stuff. Soi if your mixture does have less water it will not transport an 'hold' termal energy enough to hold the engine temp down ?!

If someone want to 'clear out' some rust & mud stuff in an old cooling system -fill it up with clear water from the tap, and some mild natural acids (my beloved citric -you can name it .. :blush: ) -2-3 times running cycles on the streets , and out with the stuff an flush all with pure clean water again. As said abover if you radiator leaks after this process -you have found an weak faulty point anyway !!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Is it not better to use distilled water in the cooling system vs regular tap water? I know our water here has quite a few minerals in it. I want to flush my system out thoroughly in the next few weeks as I've noticed some rust build up in the header tank. Is it better to just flush through with water, running it up to engine temp, then draining and repeating or is it safe to use some of the products sold at the local auto parts stores to clean up unwanted buildup?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

typical cooling additives from the auto-parts store have substances in it to control the minerals...so I would not fear to use *tab water* afterwards, or even for the 'flush'.... . And mild natural accids or even normal home cleaner could clean up the deposits of rust. The 'hot-cycle' run should help to clean up anything else too.. . Hae done that after reinstall of my engine -damn easy...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Gunter. The reason I asked is I know we have rust in our water, so probably shouldn't use it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

is the 'rust' actually comming out in flakes from the tap ? As this would be the only case I could imagine what can make you trouble. It would need serious time for the additives to work like a 'solvent' for that. But ordinary higher concentrations of chalk and/or iron in the water are actually mentioned in the customer information documents of most of the products. It is the same thing/problem as with dishwashers, laundry mashines and so on ... maybe you just have to change the mixture/concentration slightly ... .

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What pressure cap rating should I be using, mine's 14 PS or 100 KP, it seems a bit high to me, any comments ?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Not sure whether the cap rating is the same for the 4 pot and V8's. You might be better posting in the Stevens section.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


×