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Of course it's entirely up to you what you use to spray your car but if you look at the health and safety datasheet for the hardener in the paint kit mentioned above you will see that it says... Respiratory protection: Air-fed respiratory protective equipment should be worn when this product is sprayed.

I personally wouldn't even entertain the idea of spraying 2-pack without a full paint suit and air fed mask. You can even absorb 2-pack through your eye balls!! It is not nice stuff - don't mess about risking your health.

Just my opinion of course.

Paul.

Lotus Esprit [meaning] a 1:1 scale Airfix kit with a propensity to catch fire

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I have now got a pretty good finish on the first part of my project to respray using cellulose spray cans. The colour match on the spoiler is excellent with no runs etc. I spent a few hours this afternoon sanding back using 1200 wet and dry and then a rubbing compound. As this is my first attempt I was a bit worried about taking too much paint off but if anything I could probably have been a bit more agressive as some orange bloom is still evident. I then polished using Tcut restorer and polish and it looks fine.

I am now getting enthusiatic about getting a reasonable but not concourse finish for a few hundred quid. If I am honest however it still has that stipply orangebloom effect but that is only evident from very close.

I can see I am now going to spend hours and hours enjoying myself getting rid of that peeling gel coat

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That's why I said "Don't do it for a living" and "spray in a well ventilated area" - a lot of people seem to spray in their gardens!! Those face masks are rated to filter the nasties - I looked into it a couple of years ago but of course anyone doing it daily does need a full air fed hood.

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Roller painting ,eh? Brings me back to a time over 30 years ago when I painted a Chevy Corvair 2-tone camouflage green to resemble a tank when I entered a gimmick rally. (it even had a turret cannon on top!). I rolled on some sort of latex olive green for the base and free hand sprayed some Rustoleum forest green from a can on top of that for the pattern. It also had stencil while letters sprayed on for things like "no-step" (over a rot hole in the quarter panel). MA State Police stopped me once and wrote me up for having headers into straight exhaust. (I think they were trying for more, but that was enough) . That vehicle did several years duty as alternate transportation and was finally parted out and the remainder cut up with a torch and hauled off to to the dump. The fun of a $200 winter rat clunker.

Edited by comem47
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I had my Esprit professionally sprayed a few years ago and it cost me about £2000. As the cars get older and less valuable it takes some thinking about before you spend that sort of money (and more) on a car worth, realistically, only 5-6 thousand.

I remember when you got yours done. It looked a good job. I'm bitting the bullet and getting mine done professionally. And as you say, it's a lot of money to spend on a car that's not worth much, so it's taken some thinking about, but I'm keeping mine so it's worth doing.

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That's why I said "Don't do it for a living" and "spray in a well ventilated area" - a lot of people seem to spray in their gardens!! Those face masks are rated to filter the nasties - I looked into it a couple of years ago but of course anyone doing it daily does need a full air fed hood.

A half face mask won't protect the rest of your face though and like I said 2-pack can even be absorbed through your eye balls. Isocyanates are carcinogenic so you don't want any exposed skin at all. I've sprayed in my garden but inside a tent and the nearest inhabitants are over 120feet away. I wouldn't be doing it on a housing estate.

Paul.

Edited by Paul Coleman

Lotus Esprit [meaning] a 1:1 scale Airfix kit with a propensity to catch fire

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Hi Mark,

That was my reason to get it done professionally. It's now 3 years plus since it was done and the car still looks like new. I've had the car for nearly 15 years and don't plan on selling so £2000 wasn't a lot if spread over time. I would definitely think twice if it was a "toy" that I was going to get rid of when something newer came along.

I think that if I had, say, an old Elan or Europa or something from that period I wouldn't think twice about rollering it. The new paint would be better than the original however the Esprit has that clear lacquer finish which you are never going to recreate with a roller so it would only be an option if price was the deciding factor (which it might be next time it needs new paint).

RIchard

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Well to answer an earler query I am thinking of spraying the whole car using spray cans. My car is midnight blue and I recently got hold of a white spoiler.

Its just a matter of who dares wins.

Hey all the best with this project, what clear coat system are you spraying out on top. I recommend you atleast do this part off the gun - not via can. You need thickness here for protection, paint can spray wont give you this. OK unless you put down 20 layers after wetsanding each layer :)

Gosh I couldnt imagine painting my expensive exotic with cans - sorry !! Again interested to see the results.

350.gifNo.23
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I sprayed mine in cellulose back in 1996? about then...no clear coat,just flat/compound/polish. Still looks good. Apart from the stone chips, that is..but they're unavoidable. I used solid colour, Rover Eclipse Blue, which was the closest I could find in solid colour to the original Essex Metallic...didn't want to use metallic owing to the difficulty of matching if you have to repair scratches etc. £1200 worth of ICI Belco, including all the primer filler and undercoat as well as the top coat and thinners.

Fully agree about two pack....I was in a paint suppliers some years back when one of the other customers had a breathing seizure sort of thing and had to go outside into the fresh air....somebody way in the back of the shop, out of sight of the counter, had taken the top off a can of two pack. That's all it took...you can get incredibly sensitized to the stuff if you don't use the full body suit/air fed helmet kit. Amazing, isn't it, that two pack is allowable and cellulose frowned upon?

Scientists investigate that which already is; Engineers create that which has never been." - Albert Einstein

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Guest surferphil

Cellulose was a problem because spray shops would be full of fumes and someone would ignight a welder of walk in with a cigarette and the whole thin would go boom.

2 Pak paint is not bad at all, it's the small amount of catalyst you mix with it (about 2 %) that is the nasty stuff. Any left over paint cures but the cellulose would end up in the environment.

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why oh why are ppl being quoted £4k thats insane, dont ppl understand that you dont go to lotus or massive bodyshops, £2k would get you a glass spray job, my bodyshop man is doing a autoglym best of britain show car (if you have ever experienced these cars you will understand the quality and there being judged), this includes laying carbon fibre on the roof and down the sides and blending in the paintwork and general other mods (not a sticker btw real CF, its not an easy job on big areas), and the price is £2500-£3000.

ppl must be seeing the badge coming honestly.

OUR CURRENT COLLECITON :- MODIFIED LOTUS ESPRIT, FULL VEILSIDE SUPRA (BEAST 409.3bhp), NEW ADDITON TO THE TROOP, 1996 S CLASS MERC (FULLY PIMPED OUT, DUB EDITION)

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Well said young Karlos.

I too am in the they charge for the Lotus badge camp.

I have a man who's going to paint mine (eventually when I have some money and stop pithering around with houses) and he's charging me a lot less than the quoted prices. Yes he is experienced with fibreglass as he's a kit car enthusiast and builder. Yes he does this for a living and works for some of the major insurance firms. Yes he does restoration work and has quoted and been payed Ridiculous ammounts of money by both museums and private collectors to provide an exacct period job on aparticular car but he always says a descent spray shop will tailor the job to the customers pocket and still not make a bad fist of it.

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must be a midlands thing mangel LOL, well we are the centre of the country. meaning we are the best lol

(shhhh mine goes in aswell soon "maybe" he he he he)

OUR CURRENT COLLECITON :- MODIFIED LOTUS ESPRIT, FULL VEILSIDE SUPRA (BEAST 409.3bhp), NEW ADDITON TO THE TROOP, 1996 S CLASS MERC (FULLY PIMPED OUT, DUB EDITION)

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Did neither of you see Sparky's thread about his paint by Andy in Halifax. It was about £1,500 I think, very reasonable.

88 Esprit NA, 89 Esprit Turbo SE, Evora, Evora S, Evora IPS, Evora S IPS, Evora S IPS SR, Evora 400, Elise S1, Elise S1 111s, Evora GT410 Sport

Evora NA

For forum issues, please contact the Moderators. I will aim to respond to emails/PM's Mon-Fri 9-6 GMT. 

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Well the can respray is going well and will post pictures when I have done a reasonable amount. I am not proposing to use a clear coat as there are a number of internet sites advising against this ie if you have glass fibre body they tend over time to end up with masses of very small cracks. Water can then get into these and lift the clear coat which is what has happened on my car. The downside is that you have to keep polishing which being a bit of a sad bloke I quite enjoy.

In answer to Bibs Halifax is far to distant to take my car (would probably need a new engine!) and having taken her round all the main bodywork shops and spraying booths I could not get a quote under £3k. I think they took one look at the beast popping and gurgling on their forecourt and the cash register went kerchung. My local bodyshop wanted at least £4k (I have the written qoute somewhere) and that was on the basis that I did a lot of the prep.

So hey presto found an internet site (paints 4u.com) offering colour matched spray cans and I am away with the cellulose and enjoying every minute. At a quess I would reckon about £300 for everything but then I have the time for the rubbing and polishing.

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Mike, just to upset you (although it was some time ago on my first Excel, just before I purchased the second Esprit) I had a complete respray, I stripped it, pods, bumpers etc. £400 including 2-part paint.

I hope to do the same sort of thing with the S3 before I part with it.

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I can easily see how a good paint job can be £4,000+. I have so far spent 40 hours block sanding the high build primer to get it flat and I probably have another 40 hours to go with high build primer blocking and color sanding once I've put the white on it. 80 hours at even £25/hr is £2,000 and I can't imagine many bodyshops only charging £25/hr? I've spent probably £600-£700 on paint and materials. Then there's the time needed to repair any damage and actually spray the primer and colour and possibly clear coat. If any masking up is involved that can also take hours. Then add the VAT at 17.5% and £4,000 doesn't seem too outrageous to me. Having done some of it myself I now realise just how much work is involved and it is horrible labourious work at that!

Just blowing over a car with primer and colour can be quite quick if you just leave it as the gun finish and don't bother doing any of the blocking or colour sanding.

As always just my opinion of course.

Paul.

Fully agree about two pack....I was in a paint suppliers some years back when one of the other customers had a breathing seizure sort of thing and had to go outside into the fresh air....somebody way in the back of the shop, out of sight of the counter, had taken the top off a can of two pack. That's all it took...you can get incredibly sensitized to the stuff if you don't use the full body suit/air fed helmet kit. Amazing, isn't it, that two pack is allowable and cellulose frowned upon?

It horrifies me when I see videos of 'professionals' giving demonstrations of how to spray paint on YouTube and they don't have the correct safety equipment.

Cellulose was a problem because spray shops would be full of fumes and someone would ignight a welder of walk in with a cigarette and the whole thin would go boom.

2 Pak paint is not bad at all, it's the small amount of catalyst you mix with it (about 2 %) that is the nasty stuff. Any left over paint cures but the cellulose would end up in the environment.

Yes, another good point... don't run your compressor in the same area you're spraying paint in, as the motor causes sparks as it rotates which could ignite a build up of fumes :shock:

I guess the older I get the more safety conscious I become and I'm now starting to sound like my Dad :thumbsup:

Paul.

Lotus Esprit [meaning] a 1:1 scale Airfix kit with a propensity to catch fire

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I'm doing all my own prep work (which is as most people know where all the labour is!), I'm detriming (door handles, light pods, waiste line trim, etc) it and priming all the areas where it is down to the fiberglass. The paint has cost £165. That's for 5 litres of basecoat, 5l of thinners, 5l of lacquer, 5l of hardener & 1l of satin black.

I'm going to my local spray shop (who I've used for over 15 years) and I'm going to help him mask off. He is going to spray another coat of 2k primer to which I will flat dry in his bodyshop. He is then going to apply the basecoat and 3 layers of lacquer all in the same couple of hours.

Because I'm doing most of the work he is going to charge around £100 - £200 for his labour. The moral is if you get friendly with your local bodyshop and are prepared to spend the time doing the prep a professional spray job is not out of reach!

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In answer to Bibs Halifax is far to distant to take my car

Mark @ Stocks is in Chelmsford, he's not a million miles away on distance and indeed price or for about £1/mile...

CarMateEagleCarTrailer.jpg

Anyway, I'm intrigued to see your results with the cans.

88 Esprit NA, 89 Esprit Turbo SE, Evora, Evora S, Evora IPS, Evora S IPS, Evora S IPS SR, Evora 400, Elise S1, Elise S1 111s, Evora GT410 Sport

Evora NA

For forum issues, please contact the Moderators. I will aim to respond to emails/PM's Mon-Fri 9-6 GMT. 

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Well the can respray is going well and will post pictures when I have done a reasonable amount. I am not proposing to use a clear coat as there are a number of internet sites advising against this ie if you have glass fibre body they tend over time to end up with masses of very small cracks. Water can then get into these and lift the clear coat which is what has happened on my car. The downside is that you have to keep polishing which being a bit of a sad bloke I quite enjoy.

All i can say is that not using clear coat is a bad idea, I have used spray cans many times and am pretty handy with them, I wouls suggest that you try one small experiment before you start spraying! Spray a plastic bottle or something similar and once dry pour petrol petrol on it! If its like the paint i have used in the past the petrol will make the paint lift and run! Nit to bad in a normal car but on the esprit the fuel caps are high up and its hard not to spill! Thats why you get petrol resistant laquer! Just test it before you go the whole hog as it would be a shame to see your hard work ruined by petrol!

Regards danny

A

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Agree with Dan silver frost.

I'm also quite handy with spray cans but what you find if you don't use lacquer is that the road film collect as you drive along will actually react with the paint, Also heat can cause a reaction so if you leave your car out on a hit day or for a few days in the same spot it will go blotchy. The other thing which is a horror is tree sap!!

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I knew there had to be a down side although a lot of sites do not recomend lacquer on glass fibre bodies as you can get that horrible lifting smokey effect which my car is riddled with. In fact you can pick the clear coat off on most of the car. I will ask the paint supplier

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If you're using a colour coat that has lacquer in it then you shouldn't need the clear coat, but I prefer it as it gives that extra bit of protection form chips etc, a stone hitting and taking off clear coat does not mean issues colour matching afterwards.

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My experience with the paint in the past 13 years or so..can't remember exactly how long...since I sprayed it in Cellulose: yes, petrol can tend to take the paint off, but as long as you have a good amount of polish on the car it's that that will be removed, not the paint itself. Remember cellulose was the standard way of painting cars for decades... As for clear coat; one of the major reasons for spraying mine in the first place was because the lacquer was lifting away from the metallic base coat on lots of places, and that looked absolutely dreadful. Once it's lifted, you're stuffed, as there is no way of sorting it other than redoing the entire thing....matching metallic paint is a black art. Thus my beast was done in solid colour and is kept well polished.

Scientists investigate that which already is; Engineers create that which has never been." - Albert Einstein

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My paint suppliers have said that they do not recommend a lacquer on the direct colour gloss cellulose I have purchased. Only basecoat must have this finish. Over time they say that the colour can fade but this can easily be brought back to life with G3 compound or something similar. They go on to say that ordinary k1 lacquers (the sort that is sold in most accssory shops) is no better at resisting petrochemicals than the direct colour gloss paint. To get complete protection you need k2 lacquer that can only be applied with full face protective equipment. They say not to bother.

I think this time I will go with what the supplier says and make sure the paintwork has a good regular polish. If I notice any deterioration I will then have to sand back and apply it. The reason I am so against the lacquer is that this is all lifting on my car and is the main reason I am respraying it.

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