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Mike6

home respray

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Having worked on my very tatty esprit over the last year I am now reaching the point where a respray would be in order. I have been touting around on the basis that I would do most of the prep and am not looking to change the colour or remove body panels - just a mask off job. I am not particularly interested in a pristine job and know that if I pay lots of dosh I will only go and scrape the car against the garage wall.

The difficulty is that as soon as I take the car in I am being qouted at least 3 grand and thats on the basis that they park the car in the corner and work on it when the have time. Other places are quoting around £4K on the basis that they have so much insurance work they don't have to bother with private customers and thats even the very small lockups.

I have know reached the stage where I am going to give it a go myself and try the spray can route in the first instance - what can go wrong if I do it properly. I have sourced paint from a specialist supplier rather than Halfords but would be interested to know if anyone has tried this themselves and with what results.

The paint will arrive tomorrow and I am itching to get on with it.

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Upgrade today to remove Google ads and support TLF.

Willing to spend £1700? I know just the guy. :)


British Ambassador to Florida, New York, Denmark and Newfoundland.  And Sweden.

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Guest mkelite

hi Gary. ur Esprit was resprayed for £1700? ur kidding? DC.

obvious i know but worth mentioning............ painting cars without the right respiratory gear is a bit iffy for your breathing and body bits. DC.

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£1,700 is pretty good but its too far away from me. To be honest I doubt the car would make the distance so I am going to spray the spoiler in the first instance. Its a white spoiler from an old scrapped Esprit and my car is dark blue so if I make a good job of it the rest of the car beckons. The primer seems to have taken well so its looking good so far

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hi. just sprayed front and back spoilers and bumpers, and blown a bit in here and there on my black se with spray cans which i got mixed to the right colour. ok its not a perfect match but its dam close enough for me. after i sprayed it i gave it a good wet/dry to remove the orange peel then gave it a good buff up with a electric polisher. am chuffed with the results, go for it

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Did you call Mark @ Stocks Coachworks? He's flexible on price (ie will work to your requirements), works on Esprits all the time and has a solid reputation. Choppa on here recently had his S3 done there, they're based in Essex.


88 Esprit NA, 89 Esprit Turbo SE, Evora, Evora S, Evora IPS, Evora S IPS, Evora S IPS SR, Evora 400, Elise S1, Elise S1 111s, Evora GT410 Sport

Evora NA

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Have a look at Paul Coleman's thread on painting, I'm not the person to advice you but I can point out some pitfalls.

2 pack is the stuff these days, you need breathing aparatus to use it.

Acrilic is old hat and little used but OK for the handy man, but creates problems, if you later decide to have it done in 2 pack.

Then there's the "how good are you"?

Taking these considerations into account I decided my best course of action was to strip the car myself, and do the intial rub back, deliver the rolling shell and panels all dismantled and rubed down to a pro. $4,000 which is about 2,400 quid, It was a bloody good decission, and a spectacular job, there's a thraed on it in "projects and restos".

Good luck with what ever you decide.

Roger


Life is like a sewer, what you get out of it, depends on what you put into it. (Tom Leahrer)

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In a simialr position really - the GT2 needs touchups, although not a complete re-spray but I've had enough of my spray man now and want to do the job myself.

We've looked into 2 pak but as Roger says it's the breathing aparatus that's the big deal.


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88 Esprit NA, 89 Esprit Turbo SE, Evora, Evora S, Evora IPS, Evora S IPS, Evora S IPS SR, Evora 400, Elise S1, Elise S1 111s, Evora GT410 Sport

Evora NA

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If you intend to spray it yourself, I'd use cellulose paint...still need a decent mask, but not the kit you need for two pack...and the stuff is readily available..try googling "cellulose paint" and you'll see. I wouldn't touch two pack with a bargepole. The key is excellence in preparation (just takes time and effort..free if you do it yourself)..use a primer filler and undercoat, flat it all smooth before you spray topcoat. You can do it outdoors on a nice day...but watch out for the neighbours(!)..and then it's down to flatting with 1200 grade and using cutting compounds then finally polishing. I wouldn't recommend electric polishers as it's far too easy to cut all the way through the paint on edges.. Also dismantle the thing as far as possible, as you really get a much better result that way.


Scientists investigate that which already is; Engineers create that which has never been." - Albert Einstein

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Thanks for all the advice. Its cellulose which I have on order and I have plenty of time so prep can be done properly. Trying it out hopefully tomorrow on the spoiler which came from another car and is a different colour so if that goes ok it should be the rest of the car next.

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One word of caution...do a bit of practice first and - at all costs - avoid runs!! It is SO easy to put on a little bit too much and have the paint run in curtains...if you are using a proper gun, you should filter the paint and check the thickness of your paint mix. Even if you buy a compressor and decent gun you'll only be into a few hundred quid and that's peanuts compared with the cost of a "professional" respray. Machine Mart...every chap's favourite toyshop!...will be your friend.


Scientists investigate that which already is; Engineers create that which has never been." - Albert Einstein

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I've had the same thought myself, as my poor SE looks sunburned with the clearcoat peeling off. Good spray jobs aren't cheap, cheap spray jobs aren't good.

Don't know if this holds true for Esprits, but with the Europa, if you sanded past the gelcoat you'd expose the fiberglass and have all sorts of pits forming in the paint if you didn't reseal.

And practice, practice, practice. There's a fine art to getting the 'wet spot' going, and keeping it going without having it run. Practice moving the paint gun in a straight line while maintaining the same distance from the target - first timers tend to move the paint gun in an arc, so that you get a run in the middle, and not enough towards the sides. Watch the wet spot, with enough practice you can tell when you have the right amount of paint on.

With all that in mind, I went out and found a local paint operation that was reasonably sympathetic. I'm doing the disassembly/reassembly, they're doing the rest. Going to end up being around $USD2.5k to get a 2 part pearl white plus clearcoat put on my SE, and redoing the flat black sections as well. Wish I could find the S4 or later front bumper, but here in the USA, they're a bit difficult to come by.

Of course, that's a lot of disassembly to do, once you look around and see what has to come off. Bumpers, mirrors, wing, doors, sunroof hardware, everything under the front bonnet, and I've yet to figure out how to get the front, side and rear name badges off. Are they glued on? I figure it's a good time to pull the quarter panel windows, redo the black on them, and reseal them properly, too.

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Guest surferphil

You can get a very good 2 pak high build primer (Called Reface) which can be applied with a paint brush, fills in all the imperfections, dries quickly and then you can just cut it back with some P150.

If you fill with p38, don't use wet paper or the filler will absorb the water.

Make sure you have an even basecoat, the same all over the car.

Good luck and post some pictures of before and after :)

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Hi,

No what he means he will hire or purchase a compressor and spray gun and spray the car himself in possibly cellulose paint, Although I have seen people paint cars with spray cans and some have been fantastic! however its very expensive and time comsuming! Not to bad if you have bolt on wings etc that can be removed and its a small car like a mini!

Regards danny


A

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My local spray shop wanted £2,000 to just put the white on my car. That was assuming I sprayed the high build primer and did all the blocking. It was then up to me to colour sand it as well. Then I had to mask everything off and paint the black detailing myself. Good work if you can get it :lol:

Oh and I had to supply the paint as well!

Paul.

P.S. If you do buy a compressor get the biggest one you can afford because whatever you buy will not be enough.

Edited by Paul Coleman

Lotus Esprit [meaning] a 1:1 scale Airfix kit with a propensity to catch fire

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Well to answer an earler query I am thinking of spraying the whole car using spray cans. My car is midnight blue and I recently got hold of a white spoiler. I spent ages sanding it down properly then gave it a few coats of primer again from a spray can and then sanded back before applying the colour matched cellulose from 400ml spray cans. The conditions were perfect in my garage and I was really careful. The results are really good, even my wife acknowledges that it is a near perfect match. It need sanding back to get rid of the stipply effect although that actually looks nice in itself. I reckon its cost £35 to do the spoiler so I am propably going to carry on panel by panel - all masked off of course over the next few months. If all goes well I can then stick two fingers up at all these garages that want to charge £3k plus.

Its just a matter of who dares wins.

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Cellulose is a lot more forgiving than 2-pack. For one thing you don't need to take the same safety precautions as you do with 2-pack. If you cock it up just sand it down and do it again! I personally prefer 2-pack as the finish is much harder than cellulose and should last longer but it requires air fed masks etc so it's a trade off. If you're happy with the finish you can get with cellulose from cans then go for it I say.

I shall be interested to see how it goes so post some pictures of the results. Good luck.

Paul.


Lotus Esprit [meaning] a 1:1 scale Airfix kit with a propensity to catch fire

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Mike,

You would be better of getting your hands on a compressor and sparying the car, you wont get an even match out of cans on a whole as they will be different batches.

But good luck either way, just take your time.

Chris


Amateurs built the Ark

Professionals built the Titanic

"I haven't ridden in cars pulled by cows before" "Bullocks, Mr.Belcher" "No, I haven't, honestly"

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I know you guys will probably laugh in a derisory manner at this but, for the older car, if you don't want a concourse finish, you can roller your vehicle rather than spray it.

As well as my Esprit I also have a VW camper and have been rollering it using this method. I've shown some of the rollered panels it to a paint guy and he went very quiet then said he couldn't believe I'd got such a good finish without spraying. It's really easy, there's no overspray, hardly any masking, no toxic fumes annoying the neighbours, you can do it whenever you have an hour spare (and in the street) and, if you get any damage ,like a scratch, you just get the paint out again and give it a few new coats. You can also drive your car 2 hours after painting.

Ok. it's not perfect, you still have to do the normal preparation that you would with spraying but, with care and some flatting back you can get just as good a finish. The pro's would do it better I'm sure but, so far, I've only spent about £100 to do a complete recolour of my campervan. Try getting a quote like that from a spray shop.

The biggest disadvantage is that, once you've used the recommended paint you cannot use normal car paint again without a complete strip back to bare metal (or fibreglass in our case).

I wouldn't suggest using it on a car you intend showing or for concourse but, if you use your car everyday there is no cheaper way to give your bodywork a new lease of life.

Take a look at this website which explains how to do it. A search on google for "roller painting your car" will also show you lots of info. I was skeptical at first but am now a convert!

http://wiki.club8090.co.uk/index.php/Bodywork_and_Glass_Roller_painting

All the best, however you do it!

Richard

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2k paint would be best as it shouldn't react with whatever paint you have underneath. Buy a compressor (around £100 - £200) and flat dry the whole car with p400-600 to remove the gloss finish. Repair any gel cracks by scratching the cracks with a v-shaped tool (right back as far as the fibreglass) and fill with a suitable filler or resin primmer with a self etch primmer. Alwayd best to remove the bumpers and vallances and spray them seperate. Work on an couple of panels at one time (this will prevent overspray which is the main problem with home paint jobs). Mask off finished areas properly and always best to remove door handles and mirrors and waist line trim.

A very good paint kit is available here of Ebay - http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170326343944&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

which should contain more than everything you need (including enough paint to touch up in the future or a second car!). I have used this paint brand before and it is excellent.

Spraying in a suitable well ventilated place should be okay as a one off using the mask provided - just don't do it for a living!!

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Never roller painted a car....but did roller paint l'Escargot Blanc, a white Luton Transit I bought off eBay to shift some stuff to France..used Wickes' white gloss and just rolled it on after washing it a bit. Looked a million times better afterwards..had no idea it was a recognised method!! Not something I'd do to refinish a car, though...but for a rapid way of making a manky old van become far less obvious it did very well!! Sold the thing for about what I'd paid for it, too....


Scientists investigate that which already is; Engineers create that which has never been." - Albert Einstein

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You don't use household paint for this. It's not right for it at all. Rustolium is a paint designed to be rollered and is normally used for coating industrial machinery, bridges, railings etc. It is hardwearing, flexible (so no cracking if the panels move or get a knock) and, although not much use to us, is anti-rust. It goes on directly to the surface without primer and covers any old paint without reacting. That means that you can just sand the existing paint down lightly to provide a key and start rolling. Hang on, I'm starting to sound like an advert - I'm nothing to do with the paint manufacturers - I'm just very impressed with it.

Have a look at the internet links. They show a number of nice cars that have been painted this way (mostly American as they seem to have been doing this longer than us). You really would have to look hard to tell the difference and it only cost them $50 (or so they claim).

I had my Esprit professionally sprayed a few years ago and it cost me about £2000. As the cars get older and less valuable it takes some thinking about before you spend that sort of money (and more) on a car worth, realistically, only 5-6 thousand. The next time it needs doing, not for a long time I hope, I will certainly look into rollering it.

Richard

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