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Problem getting on second cam

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Has anyone experienced similar problems?

I was at Castle Combe ten days ago and the car wouldn't rev past 6000, the fan kept cuting in when it didn't need to and then the MIL came on. Code reader suggested the air intake temperature was too high. New sensors fitted, connectors etc cleaned, but problem is recurring.

Richard at B&C is working his way through the likely causes now, but I wondered if anyone else had seen similar and could suggest a fix?

TIA :cry:

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Sorry to hear this Jo. Air intake temp too high sounds like a sensor in this ouside temp. Obvious checks would be air filter or intake blocked. More serious would be charge cooler fubarred. First check perhaps is to get Richard to measure the actual temps before and after the chargecooler.

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Jo - thought your car was supercharged?

If so then you'll have the air/air chargecooler fitted.

Apart from a duff sensor there could be a blockage in the air intake system which could be increasing the air charge pressure.

I'll need to double check where the sensor is located in the intake system. If it's after the supercharger then could be a problem with the throttle body (iirc you've had this changed before)

although I'd expect other codes to be logged too.

Be worth taking of the chargecooler to see what state it's in.

Hmm - also check the main air intake duct - wonder if it's detached itselft somehow and is taking in hot engine air that's tripping the sensor (worth also checking the chargecooler pipes too for te same reason)

How do it run below 2nd cam?

If you use part throttle in neutral how far can you rev the engine?

Wonder if it's the bypass valve on the supercharger stuck.

Sorry not much help

Just checked-

air intake->filter->throttle body->supercharger->chargecooler->charge temp sensor->intake manifold

A problem with the chargecooler rad is possible.

it'd be good to test the car with obd logging and mobile the air pressure sensor.

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Sorry guys - I wasn't thinking - Paul had his old chargecooled by Sincs on a water cooled basis and I was thinking he thought I had an aftermarket system - derr!

Ads thanks for all that - am waiting for Andy to call me back from B&C so will mention the above ideas see if they've gone through them.

In answer to your question - it runs normally up to second cam - just hits the limiter at 6000.

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No worries - one of my (pedantic) pet hates the whole chargecooler being water and intercooler being air :lol:

if it runs fine but when on no load still won't get up above 6k then defiantely a sensor problem.

Which isn't helpful as they are a bugger to track down an sometime the fault codes are a caused by a symptom not the underlying problem so sending you off on a wild goose chase .

Sure b&c have have the funky tools and gadgets - the only way I've solved things like this in the past is to have a similar car and run them both comparing the odb diagnostics as they run. Crude but surprisingly effective :)

hope it's sorted soon - ESP as the good wether is pretty much here!

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Thanks - just spoken to Andy - they're still no further with the car. Have sent your ideas over on email to see if they help. They have a car with the same problem in at Hofmanns which is requiring a top end rebuild as the variable valve lift mechanism isn't working - but that car has different symptoms and throwing up different codes so hoping mine is a different issue!

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Sorry Jo. Must remembe my new car has an intercooler - not a chargecooler :-)

Hope they find it soon.

pedant mode on.

I can almost guarantee you don't have an intercooler - that implies you have two separate stages of forced induction comrpession as an intercooler sits between the two.

I'm guessing you actually have an after (as it is a cooler after all stages of charge compression) charge cooler. The actual mechanism of getting rid of the heat doesn't change the terminology.

So a water/air and air/air are both charge coolers.

pendant mode off.

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Fixed :(

Weird one - it was fixed by replacing the faulty sensor - then the ecu went off to Lotus to be reflashed with the 260 upgrade - when it came back it showed the fault again. Many wires and connectors being replaced later, much testing of sensors and faffing, and it turned out to be a pin in the ecu that had been pushed back slightly, which coincidentally showed up the exact same code, though continuous as opposed to intermittent. You couldn't make it up.

Still fixed now, so reflashed, new engine mounts, new brakes and a new exhuast and I'm ready to roll :getmecoat:

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Toop stuff. Electrical problems are a bitch to find and as with the above the OBD codes can send you off in the wrong direction.

Good spot on the ECU and lucky that you went for the 260 upgrade as I doubt it would have been an obvious thing to check.

Wonder how long it'd been like that?

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