ads_green Posted May 14, 2010 Report Share Posted May 14, 2010 Does anybody have any advice removing the exterior side body panel? I've followed the service notes but I suspect there is more to it. Specifically I've removed: - 3 bolts (manual say 2!) holding the body to the rear panel. - 4 bolts from under the sill near the undertray - 4 bolts from the inside top edge (where the aero screen connects) - 1 upward bolt from within the engine bay near the battery cut off - 4 bolts holding the front A panel/side repeater in place - 1 upward bolt inside the cabin (manual says 2 here but I can't find the other?) - 2 bolts from the front of the rear wheel arch. Can you remove the panel on it's own or do you need to take more off (like the front clam?) The panel feels like it's moving and I think it's ready - any knack to removing the panel? (does it slide out?) Thanks! Ads 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cphbc Posted May 15, 2010 Report Share Posted May 15, 2010 (edited) I have the panels removed from my car at present , so had a look . as below Does anybody have any advice removing the exterior side body panel? I've followed the service notes but I suspect there is more to it. Specifically I've removed: - 3 bolts (manual say 2!) holding the body to the rear panel. Correct 3 bolts and be careful not to loose the nylon spacing washers . Hold them captive in place with some masking tape when you refitting the panel. - 4 bolts from under the sill near the under tray Correct - 4 bolts from the inside top edge (where the aero screen connects) Correct - 1 upward bolt from within the engine bay near the battery cut off - 4 bolts holding the front A panel/side repeater in place I have removed the front clam , and think you may have to do the same . As per attached pic , clam fits over the panel , not sure you will be able to pull the panel out from under the clam as you need to lift and pull out at the same time , you could try loosing the clam to get clearance , but would suggest clam removal would be the preferred option and least likely to cause damage. - 1 upward bolt inside the cabin (manual says 2 here but I can't find the other?) Correct 1 only - 2 bolts from the front of the rear wheel arch. Correct You also need to remove the wheel arch mud flap protector thingee .... name escapes me. Other than that you need to lift up and out , be careful because it comes off in a hurry , but light and easy to manage. Hope this helps Barry p.s Just recalled also that the there are 2 plastic screws [ see second pic / blue circles ] that attach a protective flap from the clam to the body panel , these will also need to be removed. Edited May 15, 2010 by cphbc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ads_green Posted May 15, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 15, 2010 Thanks - that's just the info I was after. Shame about the front having to cone off but hey- still easier than a normal elise. The two plastic screws were the ones causing me problems - no mention of them anywhere! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ads_green Posted May 24, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 24, 2010 All out safe n sound - loosening the front clam works fine although might as well have removed it as only the front splitter bolts are left in place! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbs Posted May 24, 2010 Report Share Posted May 24, 2010 ads_green, care to share a photo or two of the naked 2-11 ? I've never seen one with the clams off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ads_green Posted May 24, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 24, 2010 Sure, will do tomorrow although I've only got the l/h side clam off. Interesting as unlike the elise, all the electrical harnesses go through the L/H sill. If anybody wants to run a cable from the engine bay to the front it's a very easy route to take. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cphbc Posted May 25, 2010 Report Share Posted May 25, 2010 (edited) I have my 2-11 currently stripped down for some modifications and repairs and have taken some pics for reference. Very easy car to work on once all the panels are off . Took about 2 hours, by myself to remove all the panels . Best to have a hand to remove the front clam if possible. Its a bit fragile and you dont want to "bend"it without the correct support. I am looking at ways to make the front clam easier to remove as this takes the most time. Having just wired in a Race Technology Data Logger / Dash / Video, easier access to the wiring will be desirable. Had some other pics , but appears that I have reached the "file size threshold" , although pics are only 100KB , so not sure what has happened, will try again later. A couple more ...... Edited May 25, 2010 by cphbc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ads_green Posted May 25, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2010 Very easy car to work on once all the panels are off . Took about 2 hours, by myself to remove all the panels . Best to have a hand to remove the front clam if possible. Its a bit fragile and you dont want to "bend"it without the correct support. I agree - very easy to get the panels off once you've found the hidden screws. Also agree on the hand for the front clam - you *can* get the side panels off without removing the front fully but you do need a helping hand to support the front clam so that it clears the front of the side panel (it overlaps the front clam a fair bit) I am looking at ways to make the front clam easier to remove as this takes the most time. I was looking at this too. The front splitter seems fairly secure without the front clam so the temptation to add a hinge here to make it pivot is quite tempting. Either that or some quarter turn fasteners but there are quite a few captive nuts bonded into the chassis and body panels. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cphbc Posted May 26, 2010 Report Share Posted May 26, 2010 (edited) A hinge is an interesting idea, but may be a bit tricky as you need to to "manipulate" the clam quite a bit when removing it . Its not a straight lift up , and am doubtful that a hinge will give enough movement. Would the clam support itself on a Hinge . Much lighter [read "fragile" ] Than an Elise / Exige Body. I have spoken to Simon from Piranha Motorsport and he has developed a system for quick removal 2-11 body removal Appears that he can get the front off in 5 minutes , which is exactly what I need. Edited May 26, 2010 by cphbc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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