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modifiedv8engines

V8 Cambelt Tensioners

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Hi All

Just replaced my cambelts ( engine out ) but during the process of torquing up the eccentric tensioners, it appears that unless you lock the tensioner into position, the tensioner comes undone when the tensioner holding bolt is tightened. Would have thought that if the belt tensioner bolts worked loose for any reason, then the tensioners would tighten rather than work loose.

This would expalin that on removing the belt covers initialy that the RHS belt was loose and could be easily pulled from the pulleys.

Another issue - seems impossible to source the exhaust manifold stud high temp permabond thread locking sealant.

I am just wondering if indeed this is necessary since the manifolds studs are locked once the nuts are torqued up and the locking tab washers bent over to prevent the nuts working loose. May be a belt and braces approach but interested to know if anyone who has rebuilt one of the se engine used the unobtainable sealant or just used the low temp stuff ?

Cheers

Paul

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have used only 'ordinary' stuff on my engine-works ...but you can for example find *Holds*exhaust glue (the white temperature resistand stuff that is also used to seal weak silencer box connections..) as usefull to on this.

for the tensioners: all screws do have indeed an ordinary [metric] RH turn. So the manual refers on 'hold in position' and tighten up. Important point on this is: use required glue on the treath & position the tensioner in the way as shown in the workshop-book ... the engine turns clockwise viewed on the timing-belt side. This means fit the tensioner in a way that if it comes loose (for any reason..) the belt could 'grab' on it and on his way straight ahead it would move the tensioner with him and makes the belt tension even stronger.. . What means tensioner sits slightly downwards and if you have to tighten it up more the tensioner has to move up a little.

Think this is illustrated in the workshop-book anyway ?!

interesting point from 'engineering terms' way: If you look close on the heads you will notice that there was indeed an type of *automatic*-tensioner planned -there is an hole for an 'clamp' & spring system next to the tensioner point on every head ... :getmecoat:

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Thanks for the response Gunter ( I knew I could rely on you to answer first :getmecoat: )

I have replaced the tensioners from the same side as they were removed so it may be the case that they have been switched at some time in the past because like I said, if you simply attempt to tighten the tensioner ( without holding the tensioner by the 2 pins) the tensioner slackens ........not what I would have expected

Just trying to think if by moving the tensioners from left to right this would make any difference ? probably not as the both the cambelts move in a clockwise direction but whether if the tensioners have different part numbers then this may provide a clue

Cheers

Paul

Sidenote ( nitromors paint stripper removes the enammeling from the cam covers but is very slooooow process !!

Edited by modifiedv8engines

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Just as a note - it is not necessary or recommended to use any threadlocker on the tensioner bolt. The tensioner position is held by the torque of the bolt. I would recommend using fresh tensioner bolts for a rebuild, as opposed to threadlocking them.

The tensioners themselves are not handed.

I´m also struggling to understand why you would wish to tighten the tensioner bolt without holding the tensioner in position? The setting to the correct belt tension is a process of measurement and adjustment in any case, with two crank revolutions between measurements..... all in the manual :getmecoat:

Cheers,

Mike S

Edited by mike_sekinger

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Mike

The reason for removing the holding device was due to the fact that the "device" I had made to do the job needed to be removed to torque the tensioners so its back to the drawing board/slight modification required with this !!

Hope this satifies your curiosity Mike !

Cheers

Paul

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Mike used an plier, as you can see in his documentary -and I can agree on that, it's cheap & easy ..and it works

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The reason for removing the holding device was due to the fact that the "device" I had made to do the job needed to be removed to torque the tensioners so its back to the drawing board/slight modification required with this !!...

.

Hahaha. Sorry, I didn´t realise that you were joking :thumbsup:

It is easy to improvise when the engine is out, but from experience many of these ways are simply impractical when the engine is installed. A careful selection of the proper tools is a great basis if you´re planning to keep the car for a while.

Cheers,

Mike S

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