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Replacing rear bearings - Page 2 - Suspension/Brakes/Wheels/Hubs/Steering/Geo - The Lotus Forums #ForTheOwners Jump to content


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for future readers, purchase new hub nuts and new hub to carrier bolts along with the bearings

an impact wrench works fine to loosen the hub nuts

I had to use an plain allen wrench (actually 2) and a box end wrench to loosen the hub to carrier bolts. some rounded anyway, actually the allen wrench rounded

my hub to carrier bolts had to be removed and installed with hub pulled out a little as the cap heads don't exactly line up through the access hole

a rubber mallet faciliated removal of the bearing/hub unit once the bolts were loosened

I added grease to the bearings before installing and cleaned the hub mating surface and added a little grease to faciliate removal next time

I cut (another) allen wrench to a length to fit thru the access hole and changed out a 3/8" drive allen wrench to use a torque wrench to reinstall them

remove the wheel center cap and resinstall the wheels to torque hub nut (car in gear, wheel choks and friend on the brakes if needed)

compared to the new bearings, the left bearing was not healthy either

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chris

90SE

just because I don't CARE doesn't mean I don't UNDERDSTAND

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Assuming rear Best with the driveshaft removed - then just drift it out from behind with a hammer and wooden block.

for future readers, purchase new hub nuts and new hub to carrier bolts along with the bearings an impact wrench works fine to loosen the hub nuts I had to use an plain allen wrench (actually 2) and

finally got to drive it tonight

doesnt sound like i'm driving on monster monster truck truck tires!

they must have been bad for a couple of years because I forget how quiet the car is (relatively)

I can clearly hear the timing belt werr and zing again

thanks for everyone's input

chris

90SE

just because I don't CARE doesn't mean I don't UNDERDSTAND

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But if it's been staked correctly with a split pin through the castellations it should stay tight surely? Or do the newer cars not have this arrangement?

Although earlier Lotuses had split pins the GT3 and other later ones simply have a nyloc nut with no other restraint than a torque of 220 lbft, there was presumably a good technical reason for this. I cannot imagine that Lotus just wanted to save the cost a of two split pins!.

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The castellated nuts are normally used where a specific clearance / torque is required, the GT3 (and all Renault gearbox ones) don't need a specific clearance they just need to be tight, very tight (but not enough to damage threads), hence the use of Nylocs.

You'll normally find castellated nuts/ equivalent covers on taper bearing arrangements.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Oh crikey....I feel ill. How completely bloody awful!!! I remember when mine got biffed in the rear, by a French White Van Man, whilst stationary on the Peripherique in Paris. Words don't do it in these circumstances.....ugh.

Scientists investigate that which already is; Engineers create that which has never been." - Albert Einstein

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  • 1 month later...

Just to take this back on topic and a subject close to my heart - At yesterday's MOT my other rear wheel bearing was found to be on it's way out. In order to avoid another 3 wheel incident Sparky did the business and replaced it, in an hour and a half! A part was sourced from a Renault 18 from the local factors (£61) and with the hub/bearing out of the hub carrier some gentle persuasion with a hammer/drift arrangement they were apart. New bearing gently tapped on, the whole process was completed without the aid of 15 tonnes press or swearing. Well done Sparkster, he's got some pics that can be added. :)

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  • Gold FFM

Bit of a result actually. The MoT yielded a SERIOUSLY worn rear bearing - with the wheel off the ground, play was enormous. Managed to get the hub/bearing out without removing the carrier, and a local factor had the necessary part on the shelf! A bit of grinding, chiselling and hammering sorted out separation, and in it went. Bootiful. Also, Bibs's very stiff gearchange turned out to be two seized translator rose joints, easily remedied for the moment with WD40 and some grease. Tightening a sun visor caused us a last minute problem when one of the sunroof mounting tongues sheared on the glass attachment. No photos of that, but a true Heath Robinson fix!

Oh, and hopo had a fuel delivery problem which turned out to be a dodgy live to the pump.

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  • 10 years later...

Hey guys... tail between legs here, I'm feeling glum and stuck with this job tonight.

The hub nut and six bearing bolts are all off and the driveshaft moves freely in and out but I've failed to budge the hub+bearing from the carrier despite no fixings remaining.  Partly it just feels like a bad day.

Three decades of corrosion I guess... any tips for budging this with the carrier still on the car?  Is the slide hammer alternative suggested in the workshop manual safe and effective this many years down the line?  Is it worth trying to use something as a drift on the rear of the bearing or would the drive shaft have to come out first?

I can give the penetrant a few more days while I do something else, but otherwise I'm just feeling sad... I've already done all the bushes so have nothing more to gain from taking the carrier off 😢

I'm going to have a beer now and just hope one of you can save my day... TIA

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  • Gold FFM

Assuming rear

Best with the driveshaft removed - then just drift it out from behind with a hammer and wooden block.

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Only here once

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