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Hello everyone it sounds like the telease bearing is going or sticking as when I change gear there is a rattling noise and I can feel the clutch pedal vibrating. Is this a hard job to do ? Any specialist equipment I may need and roughtime scale also can this be done without removing the engine

Looking at the other post it sounds the same problem as mine, how do you adjust the travel on the slave / release bearing as I can try that tonight

It's Oogies turn to boogie

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Yes it can be done without removing the engine.

Remove the boot floor, remove the silencer, disconnect the shift cables and speedo cable (if applicable) and reverse switch wiring, remove the driveshaft roll pins and disconnect them, release the gearbox mounts and then remove the bolts on the clutch housing and slave cylinder and then remove the gearbox. You don't need to remove the turbo.

You'll need to support the engine with a trolley jack or similar.

It can also be done without removing the box and not disconnecting the driveshafts by just sliding the gearbox rearward to give enough clearance to get the bearing out. Personally I would not do it this way unless I was in a big hurry as you really should check the conditon of the clutch and flywheel and if you need to remove those as well it's just a whole lot easier with the gearbox out of the way. Also a good idea to replace the rear main seal if it shows any sign of leakage as well and that definitely requires gearbox removal.

You will also need to drain the gearbox if you disconnect the driveshafts.

You should be able to get the gearbox out in a couple of hours if it's your first time and similar time to put it back in.

A hoist is a big plus to lift it out but it can be done easily enough with a couple of people without a hoist. Place some thick padding on the transom and lift it to there and then out of the car. Some have claimed to remove it from the bottom but that's too much work for me...

You really should thoroughly check everything while you're in there as it is possible that the problem is something other than the release bearing. It could easily be the clutch or pilot bearing as well.

Also, I doubt adjusting the clutch fork will solve your problem or if it does it will only be temporary. Better to fix the issue now before more damage occurs...

Edited by lotus4s

1995 S4s

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thank you for that, i have just noticed that there is no spring on the fork so perhaps this is the problem

has anyone got a picture of where the spring locates too, as i cannot find anything on the car, i have put a spring on but its not right as the car will move in gear with the clutch depressed. also i have noticed that when the clutch is in the slave cylinder rod looks out a long way.

It's Oogies turn to boogie

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I'm agreed with Jim

I had same problem in feb. this year and the relase bearing was totally dead and can't relase the cluch. I relaced all cluch relasebearing, pressure plate and even forks.

I tried with Not taking gearbox out ( don't do that !) but it took a lot of time and it's very hard to replace the cluch pressure plate .... because you have very lille access space.

So, I quite agree with Jim and you may need need to replace the pressure plate too.

Good luck

Yasuo

P.S. it took about 3-4 days ( 2hours pr. day in winther under mins grade .)

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Peter,

The only spring on the fork is a piece of spring steel on the back of it that hooks onto a spherical ball in the clutch housing. If that has come loose or the release bearing has come loose from the fork, that will cause all kinds of issues and noises.

I think you really need to pull the gearbox loose and look inside.

And I was probably a little optimistic on the time for R&R in my last post. As Yasuo mentioned it's probably more like 3-4 hours each way. I can pull one in about 1 1/2 hrs working leisurely but I have a lift and air tools which make it much easier.

For me, the only real difficult part is getting the input shaft aligned properly and seated in the pilot bearing when re-installing. It's like putting a 150lb peg into a blind hole that's just barely big enough...

Good luck!

1995 S4s

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Thanks I realised that the spring was a leaf one after putting my brain in gear. I adjusted the screw on the fork which has improved the gear change noise looks like I will be doing the clutch very soon. Thanks for the help once again

It's Oogies turn to boogie

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Peter

Don't drive long distance until you fix the problem ! (in my case started same as yours and then you can't change the gear at all to the end !).

If your cluch forks is not still when you start engine running then you should fix as soon as possible otherwise it will damge the cluch pressure plate.

( If you ajusting with screw that means, you push more and more relasebearing to the pressuerplate)

Yasuo

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I can order you one if it's a Lotus part you want. You'll have it for Thursday if you order asap.

88 Esprit NA, 89 Esprit Turbo SE, Evora, Evora S, Evora IPS, Evora S IPS, Evora S IPS SR, Evora 400, Elise S1, Elise S1 111s, Evora GT410 Sport

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  • 2 weeks later...

If they only want £200 then let them do it,if they break/damage anything then its up to them to sort it,but as Jim said do the gear box output shaft seals as well as the rear crank will save lots of bother later on. I did mine a few months ago with Geoff pretty straight forward job especially with the right gear !

Cheers

Nick S4s

Edited by fflyingdog

Simplest things first.

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Well I may give it a go so it's out with the boot floor off with the rear exhaust section disconnect the two translator cables unbolt the slave cylinder support the engine trolley jack under the gear box knock out the the drive shaft pins (where are they) undo bellhousing bolts undo gear box mounts pull gearbox back and out remove release bearing remove remove clutch and pressure plate, then put back together. When putting the bearing and pressure plate and clutch plate in I need an alignment tool I believe. Any additions or changes will be helpful

It's Oogies turn to boogie

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Instead of knocking out the drive shaft pins you should try the 'sparky' solution of pulling the drive shafts out of the yolk. Instructions are on the forum. Also you might like to think about replacing the pilot bearing.

Post some pictures please as its a job I have to do at some stage

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well started this (having a break at the moment) bit of a bitch floor took an hour to get out and then i had a drift snap in the drive shaft (which took about about an hour to get out). have been taking some pics just going to jack it up and put axle stands under chassis & engine. so i can remove rear wheels and loosen hub bolts so i can pull the drive shafts off. then its starter motor and begin unbolting the gear box

It's Oogies turn to boogie

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well the clutch is a bugger by yourself with no air tools, pit or lift. could not undo the gear box mount top allen bolt so i had to undo the bottom link and then tap out the mount bolt so the gear box would slide back.the release bearing is totally rusted, the fork spring not there and the pressure plate has some of the finger ends worn on about 1/5 of them, also rusty so there mus be water getting in, looking at the top of the gearbox its where a lot of rain runs down.

does anyone know how the bearing fits on the fork, or does it just clip int the fingers on the pressure plate as the large tab shoud be at the top. heres a link to my photo site so people can see whats involved

http://s1005.photobucket.com/albums/af176/oogieboogie1/clutch%20replacement/

It's Oogies turn to boogie

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When you put it back together, the two prongs on the back of the fork are fitted on the ball in the housing, then slide the release bearing on the shaft and hook the metal tab of the bearing on the top arm of the fork. That's all that holds it in place.

At that point, I pull the end of the fork with the adjuster nut all the way forward (pushing the fork and bearing to the rear) and zip tie it to the slave opening in the housing to hold everything in place until the gearbox is bolted back to the engine.

Make sure you have the fork retainer spring correctly engaged on the ball, see the sketch in the Service Notes. If you don't have it, PM me and I'll send it to you.

Are you going to replace the rear crank seal? I would recommend it...

1995 S4s

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thank you i have the spring on correctly behind the coller on the ball. so i take it that the bearing sits with the hooked tab facing towards the gearbox and hooks over the fork arm. thaks for the help, im going to leave the crank seal for now

It's Oogies turn to boogie

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well i have been trying to put this bloody box back on the car for 3 evenings and no joy, realigned the clutch 4 times cleaned the splines checked the plate did not move when the pressure plate was bolted up just cannot get it to go back together think i will teke the box out the car tomorrow, beginning to piss me off now

It's Oogies turn to boogie

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The clutch is probably aligned fine as long as you have a decent alignment tool. As I mentioned before, the hardest part is trying to get the end of the input shaft into the pilot bearing and it can be frustrating particularly if you are doing it alone.

I don't know of any secrets to getting it in, maybe someone has one but it's most always been a struggle for me too. Every now and then I'll get one that just slips right into place without too much fuss but that has been the exception for me.

Make sure you have the engine/crankshaft level and parallel with the ground and try to do the same with the gearbox as you go forward. You might also try turning the input shaft slightly to help it align with the splines easier. When you finally get the shaft aligned with the bearing it will slip right in.

Be ready to put a bolt in place to keep it there before it slides out again.... :wallbash:

I've also heard of using 3 or 4 lengths of threaded rod 4-5 inches long screwed into the holes in the block to help guide the gearbox into place. You could use bolts with the heads cut off as well.

Don't give up Peter, you'll get it. :thumbup:

Edited by lotus4s

1995 S4s

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well within 1/2 an hour tonight the gearbox has gone on, wound it on with a coulpe of bolts and a couple of alterationson the jacks. will get it bolted up and then look at the adjustment on the arm tomorrow night as its to its max at the moment. thanks for the help

all the best

It's Oogies turn to boogie

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well, i retightened the exhaust manifold, the turbo, the gear box refitted the drive shafts top and bottom links and cross member, one thing i am a bit wary of is the sensor on top od the bellhouseing as i had lifted it up but it wont budge now is there a way of removing this or how close does it have to be to pick up the marks on the fly wheel,? all the best

It's Oogies turn to boogie

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I wouldn't leave it that way, it should be bolted back in properly. It shouldn't be that tight, gently persuade it out and clean it up.

Probably just a little corrosion in the opening and maybe wedged a little off kilter...

1995 S4s

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thanks once again, bloody sensor has started to break up whoever was there before had broken the casing and bonded it in looks like the car wont be moving this weekend, still i can do everything else i suppose, is there a cross ref part on this?

It's Oogies turn to boogie

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