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A Few Questions


SimonE

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Hello All - been rather busy all summer but finally got around to trying to fire up the rebuilt dry sump turbo today - without luck - starter wouldn't engage (dead).

Before I start looking for the reason I thought I might ask a few questions - sorry if some of them seem a tad daft :)

My Esprit is an '81 Dry Sump Turbo - looks pretty standard, electronic ignition

- do they have an immobiliser fitted?

- the rad fans are not connected up yet - do they have a failsafe device on them?

- solenoid has 2 wires going to spade connectors - one is yellow and seems to go towards the ignition, then there is a thicker black one that connects to a little black box on the inner O/S wheelarch - I didn't take a note of which wire went to which spade connector

- fuel pump sounded rather noisy too?

Apart from that everything looks fine ;)

Any suggestions would be most welcome

Cheers

Simon

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Not sure about the dry sumper...but the 82 Turbo has a fuel pump that sounds a bit like a turbine...delivers fuel to the pressure limiting valve on the rear of the plenum and the carb supplies come from this ...excess fuel is passed back to the tanks by the pipe underneath the limiter. The ignition has a ballast resistance, which is in the form of the wire from the solenoid to the ignition..it is necessary to get the right wires on the solenoid terminals as a consequence! I'll find my wiring diagrams tomorrow and post again, unless someone beats me to it...If your starter motor isn't working, you may have the connectors on the wrong terminals! No immobiliser fitted as standard afaik...the little black box you describe, if it has a red button poking out the top, is an inertia switch to cut the fuel pump in the event of a crash. If the button is sticking right out it's OFF...push it in for ON. Fans are supplied through a fused relay and there is a "fan fail" warning light on the instrument panel. I've fitted a manual override to the otter switch, to prevent that "wiil it or won't it " business in traffic jams, wondering if the fans will work....

Scientists investigate that which already is; Engineers create that which has never been." - Albert Einstein

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Cheers Chaps

Well starter motor seems to require a bit of attention - bridged solenoid and for some reason it spins but won't engage the starter ring - removed it from car and it just spins when livened up from spare battery

Blimey new ones arn't cheap are they ;)

Going to let the local auto electrician have a lookie first

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Starter spinning but not engaging indicates it's the pre-engagement mechanism. You could try loosening it yourself (WD40, hammers vice etc) or an auto electrician.

If you do go replacementm, the new geared high torque ones are good and give a good starting force.

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The starter spins but doesn't engage??? Very odd....normally the solenoid operates the engaging mechanism, and at the very end of travel, there is a massive copper contactor which then turns on the power to the motor...so the pinion is engaged with the ring gear before it starts to rotate...hence "pre-engaged". If the contactor is working but the pinion doesn't move, has to be a linkage failure between the moving part of the solenoid and the pinion sliding. There's nothing very complicated; worth having a look at yourself first...solenoid moves, moves one end of a lever, other end moves the pinion.

Ah...just reread your post...did you bridge ACROSS the solenoid; if you did, and no current passed through the solenoid itself, then the solenoid won't move and the pinion won't move either. You need to apply 12v to the big terminal on the solenoid and then connect that to one of the solenoid spade terminals...can't remember which one, but one of them ought to make it work!!

Scientists investigate that which already is; Engineers create that which has never been." - Albert Einstein

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Thanks John

I live back in the stone age I reckon :) - many thanks for your post - I have just checked the starter (off the car) and as you correctly diagnose by also applying a live current to the solenoid spade connector indeed the starter seems to work correctly - it seems like an immobiliser has been fitted at some stage between the ignition and the solenoid preventing current reaching the solenoid when key turned to start mode - an evening's detective work with a multimeter beckons.

Again thankyou :)

Cheers

Simon

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