Type of Oil Recommended

[karmavore 1 1 Vehicles]

Interesting stuff...

but I think we all need to get real . I think for most of us choosing an oil is about marketing and professional reviews. In all my oil changing years I don't think I've ever actually noticed a different between brands.

[oilman 0]

It's doubtful that you would notice any difference, but it's not so much what you notice, it's more about how the car is protected by the oil.

[karmavore 1 1 Vehicles]

Exactly...

So when people ask "what oil do you like" it's about reviews, price, availability... Nothing objective, first-hand.

[Buddsy 1,456 1 Vehicles]

Mobil 1 in the UK are 100% synthetic oils.

So are you saying the UK Mobil 1 is different to the USA & Japan Mobil 1 where they are not allowed to call it 100% synthetic because its not 100% synthetic?

Buddsy

Edited January 18, 2011 by Buddsy

[oilman 0]

They are different. In the US, some of the oils are ester based, none of the UK versions are. I can't comment on Japan as I don't know what they have over there.

[esprit3 2]

Lets be honest people who sell millers or deep purple or any other brand normally do so on mark up ( how much they can make per can) millers typical mark up is 60%. Just use good quality well known brands of the correct grade and to be honest you will be better off. As for lotus doing exhaustive tests they are more driven by cost than anyone else, they would not bother stripping a gearbox or engine down assesing it rebuilding it running it and doing another complete stripdown don't be fooled by what others say. It's mark up thats all

[Buddsy 1,456 1 Vehicles]

Oh OK Cool! Im not trying to be an arse, just trying to get to the bottom of which oil I will use! I think things have moved on a lot and if Lotus specked an oil when they were making engines maybe things have moved on. If these oils were specked after they were making engines I wouldnt think they would have done extensive testing of all the oils available. Such a mine feild!!! lol

Cheers

Buddsy

[oilman 0]

Things have definately moved on since the engine was made and we try to spec oils based on how things have advanced. There are too many people on the internet that claim to know a lot about oil, most of the information is out of date/just plain wrong and it's pretty difficult to pick out the correct stuff. Our information has to be good, otherwise if we recommend an oil that causes problems, we can be liable for costs.

Esprit3, you sure that we spec based on mark up? Well, you're wrong. The largest mark up percentage is on pretty basic semi-synthetics rather than top end oils, especially as we reduce prices to get similar top end oils priced the same. By the time you add the forum discount we give, there definately isn't 60% mark up.We could sell more of the cheaper oils that don't last as long, so get replaced more often and we'd probably make more profit wise.

We can vouch for the quality of the oils we sell based on oil tests we've had done, as well as reports back from customers and our sponsored drivers. Some of the sponsored drivers get their engines rebuilt every season and when we hear that the engine builder thought they'd only done a couple of races rather than the whole season, that's a pretty good indication of how good an oil is.

Cheers

Tim

[Buddsy 1,456 1 Vehicles]

Good man Tim...must feel like your bashing your head against a brick wall sometimes!

So my question is I have finished a total engine rebuild and as these new oils are so good do I use them when I run my engine in or do you think I should use a specially made running in oil?

Many thanks

Buddsy

[oilman 0]

Yes, it definately feels like it with certain people/companies/forums, but it's up to them if they want to take advantage of what we know, rather than what some guy said down the pub.

I'd definately use either a running in oil or a basic mineral oil for the first 500/1000 miles, depending on how thorough you want to be. If you are going to use a good synthetic oil after that, you want to make sure it's run in as much as it can be. Millers CRO is a good option for running in.

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-60229-millers-oils-cro-10w-40-competition-running-in-oil.aspx

Using a synthetic in an engine that needs running in is a bad idea for a few reasons

1. They are too good and there won't be enough wear.

2. The bores can glaze

3. Too expensive to change often through the running in period.

Cheers

Tim

Edited January 19, 2011 by oilman

[karmavore 1 1 Vehicles]

So, Tim, when are you going to tell us what the best oil is?

[mike_sekinger 345 2 Vehicles]

I´m a big fan of the old Silkolene Pro S range - now Fuchs Titan Race Pro S

[oilman 0]

That is definately one of the best oils, others that are on a par are the Redline, Millers CFS, Motul 300V and Gulf Competition. Those are the top end ester oils and there really isn't anything better around. Others such as the Castrol Edge, Mobil 1, Amsoil are a step below them in basestock quality terms, but they are still very good oils.

Here's a short article off our site about the basestock types

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/pdfs/tech-articles/Basestock-categories-and-Descriptions.pdf

Mike, if it's any interest to you, there is an offer that started on the Pro S today.

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/t-Current-Offer.aspx

Cheers

Tim

[karmavore 1 1 Vehicles]

...but Tim, the base stock isn't the whole story, right? I site your poo-poo-ing of RP as an example.

I'm interested the best oil for my application... does that make sense?

[oilman 0]

Absolutely right, the basestock isn't the whole story, there is the additive package as well. We've had a lot of oils tested and the ones we stock have not revealed anything off putting like high sulphur levels, low detergency etc. We get offered so many oils to sell that we can pick out the ones that give the good results, along with not being overly expensive. In many of the tests we've had done, part of the analysis will say things like 'very similar to Fuchs Pro S/Motul 300V etc'. That's a useful thing as chemically at least it will be very similar to the top products. We had a new one tested about 6 months ago and the results said it was good and on a par with the Pro S, but it was about £70 for 5L, so we couldn't justify selling it, we'd have no reason to recommend it over the well proven top end oils that are around £50.

I would use one of the ester based 10w-60s as a top end choice for your car. Millers, Gulf and Castrol Edge (the one for M-Series, not the Edge Sport) are the best ones and with the offer on Gulf, that would be my pick of them.

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-662-10w-60.aspx

The Mobil and Castrol Edge Sport are both good synthetics, but they aren't ester based like the others.

Cheers

Tim

Edited January 19, 2011 by oilman

[karmavore 1 1 Vehicles]

I'm leaning toward Redline The others you mentioned are hard, if not impossible, to get in the US. How much better are Fuchs and Motul than RL?

Is one oil better suited to my very hot turbo-four application, regardless of base stock, etc?

[oilman 0]

Ooops, I missed that you are in the US. I guess getting the Redline 10w-60 is easy enough for you? That would be my choice for your car, the only reason I didn't mention the Redline 10w-60 is because we don't stock it. Redline is as good a choice as anything on the market.

[karmavore 1 1 Vehicles]

Thanks Tim. I'll give it a pour.

[Bibs 8,868 4 Vehicles]

Lucas, we ship oil worldwide, no reason for you to struggle to get any...

[karmavore 1 1 Vehicles]

You know I love you Bibs, but I think that might be cost-preventative, Especially if stuff that's available here is just as good. Thanks though.

[lotus4s 24 1 Vehicles]

Tim,

I've heard other Redline users say that Redline recommends their 10w-40 (as opposed to their heavier 50 or 60 weights) for our 4 cylinders that Lotus recommends Mobil 1 15w-50 for. What's your opinion on that?

[karmavore 1 1 Vehicles]

Thanks for bringing that up Jim.

I'm all about a lighter weight oil, but the last time I ran a 40 I was getting the oil pressure light at idle (once warm).

[lotus4s 24 1 Vehicles]

Yeah I'd prefer the heavier too...

[fmxa 58 2 Vehicles]

I spoke to Red Line a few years back and they said either 15/50 or 10/40 with a leaning toward 10/40 for the V8.

[oilman 0]

That's a little odd, our databases all say 10w-60 and when we've recommended that to people in the past, it's been fine. If you're getting the oil pressure using a 10w-40 or 15w-50, go with those.