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Testing for sticking wate gates


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Sticking wategates seems to be an issue with infrequent use....

If there any easy way to test whether things are okay, either static, when doing servicing work. Or alternative obvious signs/feel when driving.

Any maintenace/suggestions on keeping stuff working?

Discuss.. lol

Jeff

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If you put your foot down an shit yourself in the ensuing blur, your wastegates are probably stuck closed, if a Reliant passes you, they're stuck open. If you do shit yourself, back off quickly, otherwise you'll have a repeat episode when you get the quote for the engine rebuild.

"If everything seems under control, you're just not going fast enough."

- Mario Andretti

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If you put your foot down an shit yourself in the ensuing blur, your wastegates are probably stuck closed, if a Reliant passes you, they're stuck open. If you do shit yourself, back off quickly, otherwise you'll have a repeat episode when you get the quote for the engine rebuild.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

ROTFLMAO :o

1995 S4s

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Sticking wategates seems to be an issue with infrequent use....

If there any easy way to test whether things are okay, either static, when doing servicing work. Or alternative obvious signs/feel when driving.

Any maintenace/suggestions on keeping stuff working?

Discuss.. lol

Jeff

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

The best way to check wastegates would be to slide under the car and make sure you can move the actuating rods against the spring tension of the diaprahms/capsules. You can push the rod with pliers or a small wrench. Try not to twist or deflect the rod. It will be easy to tell the difference between pushing against spring tension versus seisure/rust. Of course if both sides don't feel the same that would be an obvious sign of trouble. I've added this to the list of things I check at oil change intervals.

BTW, this test is less pleasant to attempt when the engine is hot.

Hope this helps,

Rod

Rod

98 Esprit V8

Dynamic Racing Turbos

Water Injection

Factory Red ECU

3 bar MAP piggyback

Straight-through exhaust

TurboXS BOVs

Blitz I-color boost control + Wide-band AFR

Porsche/Getrag G50/52 Transmission (...coming soon someday)

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The best way to check wastegates would be to slide under the car and make sure you can move the actuating rods against the spring tension of the diaprahms/capsules.  You can push the rod with pliers or a small wrench.  Try not to twist or deflect the rod.  It will be easy to tell the difference between pushing against spring tension versus seisure/rust.  Of course if both sides don't feel the same that would be an obvious sign of trouble. I've added this to the list of things I check at oil change intervals.   

BTW, this test is less pleasant to attempt when the engine is hot.

Hope this helps,

Rod

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Thanks Rob, what sort of movement is evident? I mean is it a inch or so and are you sort of aware of a butterfly thing opening. Never having looking inside a turbo/wastegate assembly I'm not really sure what to picture.

But yes it was a crawl under sort of check I was after.. stamping your foot down and feeling what happens seems a bit hit and miss.

Jeff

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Thanks Rob, what sort of movement is evident? I mean is it a inch or so and are you sort of aware of a butterfly thing opening. Never having looking inside a turbo/wastegate assembly I'm not really sure what to picture.

But yes it was a crawl under sort of check I was after.. stamping your foot down and feeling what happens seems a bit hit and miss.

Jeff

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

would that be a HIT or MISS that tree kind a thing :)

and can i crawl under the car :D pleeeease .......

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Best way is to use a 12v tyre inflator with an airbed adaptor (conical shape with the fat end attached to the inflator valve).

Follow the black hose leading from the wastegate. About 50cm along you'll find a join to a narrower red hose. Pull this apart with the connector still in the red hose.

Turn the inflator on and gently begin to push the airbed adaptor into the black hose. At the point where it starts to seal you should see the wastegate open. Remove the inflator and it should spring back.

But be careful - these inflators are quite capable of producing 150psi so if it were to seal completely you would quite possibly rupture the wastegate capsule. Though the adaptor would likely blow off the hose long before this.

If you want to be really nifty (and the guage on your inflator is accurate) you can find the point where the wastegate just begins to open and check the pressure which is producing this. On a V8 it should be 5psi.

May: DON'T hit it with a hammer!

Clarkson: Why?

May: Cause it's the tool of a pikey.

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