Update on changing a V8 clutch slave

[fmxa]

Finally have the clutch master and slave cylinders installed and bled after what should have been a 1 or 2 hour job turned into a week long fiasco! Removal of both master and slave was a piece of cake, so I was thinking re-installation will be as smooth - WRONG!

Got eveything installed (followed LEW's excellent guide for the 4 cylinder cars) hooked up the power bleeder (made bleeding a quick and painless job) but once complete the clutch pedal was rock hard and would not move.

After a while I figured something must be wrong and removed both the master and slave for a closer look

First thing I noticed was the slave piston would retract into the slave housing but would not come back out as the spring appeared defective or broke. Tip 1 - check the spring loading is good before installing! So I now believe I've figured out why the pedal is rock hard. Reinstall master (after checking its spring) and the new slave. As I'm bleeing I hear a "ping/snap" from the clutch/transmission area

It seems on the V8's you have to align the push-rod from the slave into a tiny petal on the clutch release fork which is darn near impossible to see due to a housing cover. I thought I had it aligned but alas not. The ping I heard was the push-rod shearing off and one end falling into the clutch basket as I pushed the clutch pedal down

I spent the next two days fishing around in the clutch housing with assorted magnets etc for the missing piece of push-rod. I got a tip from Harry at Viking Motor Sports, that if it's not in the clutch housing, the piece may be stuck in the clutch basket. I then had someone click the starter to rotate the clutch and after 5 or 6 clicks I heard something drop to the bottom of the housing - after another 20 minutes I located the rod near the fly wheel and hooked it on a magnet inserted up from under the clutch housing!

Tip 2 - always make certain you have the rod aligned to the release fork petal! Adding a dab of grease to the petal helps keep the rod in position until the slave is fastened up.

Here's a picture of the broken push-rod - it seems as these things are made from a rare lotus metal called "unobtainium" as aparently there isn't a new one in the entire US or UK right now! As luck would have it, Viking had an old one they gave me.

So everything is now installed, bled (must have gone through a liter of brake fluid!) and I'm back on the road. Bottom line - on the V8's check the push-rod is aligned to the petal!!!

[atgnat]

my slave went in easy as you like.

[Jonathan]

VERN !!!

LOL don't you just love it when you spend blood, sweat and tears and someone come out with a sledgehammer comment like that !

Sorry to hear Paul, does look a lot harder than the 4 banger clutch cylinder.

If you've got some more pics do a write up for LEW and get Kato to publish it on the site, looks like one of those really annoying things that should take 5 mins but ends up keeping your car off the road for a week.

On a side, looks a lot easier to fiddle with in there when the floor is out as opposed to the 4 pot.

[atgnat]

another thing to remember is that you can rebuild a slave cheaply. the replacement from lotus is expensive, and only waranted for 90 days. i forget who sells the kit as it's been a year since i did it, but i am all thumbs and it went well. f.y.i. i have a spare if someone is in a bind.

[fmxa]

LOL! I'll have to put something together and pass it onto Kato; and yes removing the floor makes things so much easier - it's only held in by 8 bolts and comes out in a few minutes.

VERN !!!

LOL don't you just love it when you spend blood, sweat and tears and someone come out with a sledgehammer comment like that !

Sorry to hear Paul, does look a lot harder than the 4 banger clutch cylinder.

If you've got some more pics do a write up for LEW and get Kato to publish it on the site, looks like one of those really annoying things that should take 5 mins but ends up keeping your car off the road for a week.

On a side, looks a lot easier to fiddle with in there when the floor is out as opposed to the 4 pot.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

[Kato]

look forward to receiving the guide. I'll add it to the 4-cylinder, so the guide covers all the renault gearbox Esprits. Stuff like this is always good to know.

[jeff_hooper]

I've just put my gearbox back on and though the clutch slave cylinder refitting through carefully to avoid loosing that pin and to ensure its properly engaged.

I've found if you remove the clutch housing from the bell housing. Then bolt the slave cylinder to the clutch housing. Then refit this entire assembly to the bell housing. There's enough fiddle room for fingers between the Bell housing and Clutch housing as you line it all up to engage the pin into the clutch arm for certain.

It takes the guess work out of the process and makes it an easy job.

Jeff

[Artie]

Finally have the clutch master and slave cylinders installed and bled after what should have been a 1 or 2 hour job turned into a week long fiasco! Removal of both master and slave was a piece of cake, so I was thinking re-installation will be as smooth - WRONG!

Got eveything installed (followed LEW's excellent guide for the 4 cylinder cars) hooked up the power bleeder (made bleeding a quick and painless job) but once complete the clutch pedal was rock hard and would not move.

After a while I figured something must be wrong and removed both the master and slave for a closer look

First thing I noticed was the slave piston would retract into the slave housing but would not come back out as the spring appeared defective or broke. Tip 1 - check the spring loading is good before installing! So I now believe I've figured out why the pedal is rock hard. Reinstall master (after checking its spring) and the new slave. As I'm bleeing I hear a "ping/snap" from the clutch/transmission area

It seems on the V8's you have to align the push-rod from the slave into a tiny petal on the clutch release fork which is darn near impossible to see due to a housing cover. I thought I had it aligned but alas not. The ping I heard was the push-rod shearing off and one end falling into the clutch basket as I pushed the clutch pedal down

I spent the next two days fishing around in the clutch housing with assorted magnets etc for the missing piece of push-rod. I got a tip from Harry at Viking Motor Sports, that if it's not in the clutch housing, the piece may be stuck in the clutch basket. I then had someone click the starter to rotate the clutch and after 5 or 6 clicks I heard something drop to the bottom of the housing - after another 20 minutes I located the rod near the fly wheel and hooked it on a magnet inserted up from under the clutch housing!

Tip 2 - always make certain you have the rod aligned to the release fork petal! Adding a dab of grease to the petal helps keep the rod in position until the slave is fastened up.

Here's a picture of the broken push-rod - it seems as these things are made from a rare lotus metal called "unobtainium" as aparently there isn't a new one in the entire US or UK right now! As luck would have it, Viking had an old one they gave me.

So everything is now installed, bled (must have gone through a liter of brake fluid!) and I'm back on the road. Bottom line - on the V8's check the push-rod is aligned to the petal!!!

Good Ole' Harry, quite a chap! Next time you see him tell Harry that ART in Kansas City says "Hi". He has been so helpful during the buildup of my turbo to SE project.

Artie

[hykam]

Hi Paul,

It was nice to meet you and Jackie in HK. Hope you have had a good time here.

For the clutch cylinder, you can look at the following web site to put a stainless steel sleeve in it

www.applehydraulics.com

Best

Raymond

[fmxa]

We had the best time and can't thank you enough for the hospitality!

Hi Paul,

It was nice to meet you and Jackie in HK. Hope you have had a good time here.

For the clutch cylinder, you can look at the following web site to put a stainless steel sleeve in it

www.applehydraulics.com

Best

Raymond