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Bosch K-Jetronic CIS Car Owners, UNITE!


MrDangerUS

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DRIVEABILITY PROBLEMS CAUSED BY WASTEGATE VALVE STEM WEAR.

Check the Ferrariguy's write-up, here http://www.lotustalk...y-issue-121943/

The same symptoms will occur if the diaphragm has any holes/perforation.

Edited by ramjet

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TIMING BELT TENSION GAUGE

Why pay hundreds?

Just look for "Kent-Moore J-26486 Belt Tension Gauge" on eBay.

Kent Moore bought out Burroughs, so gauges are identical! Well, except Lotus logo, perhaps.

Edited by MrDangerUS

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I just read through this and several of the links to the Porsche forum. I was very interested in the overhaul of the fuel distributor. In talking with Toby (Delorean northwest) who has been working on my car, the fact that Bosch will only support these via factory approved rebuilders is the issue. there seems to be only one factory approved guy left in the US and has a backlog of units most of the time. So it comes down to parts. The diaphragm is the buggy as most of the o rings ect are generic.  So I am headed back over to my UK office on the 17th and I am going to pickup a used fuel distributor from an 87 and bring it back and see if I can take it apart and maybe with Toby's help come up with a way to fabricate the diaphragm he has been exploring this via his aviation background.  Mr.DangerUS.. have you installed the tools digital warm up regulator yet?  I want to remap the fuel curve with that so that I can run more boost.  The lotus engine is capable of much more boost if the fuel is fattened up and temperatures are kept in check. I am looking to run 1 bar. protecting the engine with and MSD rev limiter with overboost protection and bypass the lotus fuel cutoff over boost relay.  two ways to increase the boost.. heavier spring and or shims in the waste gate ora pressure controller in the line between the turbo and the waste gate. this is a better plan as then it allows for boost adjustment on the fly so it is was a sunday drive boost can be limited and if lets say it was a track day boost can be run at max.

 

Please let me know in the utools kit and if you had any more experience with the larger flow injectors.  thanks 

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Bosch K-Jetro is not limited by "size" of the injector (mechanical sprayer), but only by the FD flow and air paddle bore diameter.

AEM Tru-Boost controller can be plumbed into the wastegate providing that you'll seal off diaphragm-to-stem gap and the lower chamber.

I doubt if you can run 1 Bar with the OE stock turbo. You need to upgrade. Before you do that, your Citroen transaxle has to be beefed up and Cyo-Treated, or replaced by an Audi unit. 

 

I heard from UT, that modified D-WUR for Lotus is ready and available. I have not installed it, yet. Unit does not want to work with 14AB amplifier. I expect it may work with Pertronix pick up, but we need to test it, yet.

To enjoy full advantage of the D-WUR, first, you need a well tuned CIS on your car. Baseline must be there.

D-WUR is not going to magically "fix" other typical CIS problems.

Edited by MrDangerUS

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Very good articles on the subject:
 

 

http://www.streetrodstuff.com/Articles/Engine/Detonation/

 

http://www.avweb.com/news/pelican/182132-1.html



 

Edited by MrDangerUS

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CAI, Cold Air Intake pipe on Bosch CIS cars.  Improving Volumetric Efficiency of your CAI.

 

Ribbed "Dryer" hose between the Fuel Distributor and inlet of the turbo should be replaced by hard alloy 3" or 3.25" OD smooth ID duct. 

Any air leak in the trunking pipe throws off CIS fuel metering system resultant in very poor performance or "no run" condition.

This duct must be air tight at all times. Smooth ID enhances unobstructed air flow and makes the turbo intake pressure drop much smaller.

Air Flow Meter outlet is OVAL, 3.25" OD. Use a silicone coupler to connect 3.25 OD 90degrees alloy elbow/pipe. Enbow arms come in different lengths, so seek one with the longest arms/sections. Use short alloy extension w/silicone couplers/reducers approaching the turbo inlet. 

OE turbo inlet is restrictive, 2.0" ID and 2.25" OD. Carry the large diameter (3.25") duct all the way to the turbo inlet, and only there use smooth transition (megaphone) tube or silicone reducer. Turbo inlet  shoud be chamfered internally.

 

By all means, (at least) implement the ram air mod. The utimate solution is a replacement of the "dryer hose" duct between the scoop  and the air filter box with 3.25" PVC or alloy duct/elbows. In addition, the scoop port can be enlarged by 38-40% and OE wire mesh eliminated, or replaced by the less restrictive one. Results: 10-15 CFM gain.

For pictures see:  http://www.thelotusforums.com/forums/garage/vehicle/744-lotus-esprit-x330-turbo/?tab=mods&mod_id=1545

 

* Larger diameter CAI ducts=Increased air flow=higher volumetric efficiency=power increase without boost nor manifold air temperatures increase.

* High turbo inlet pressure drop=higher charge temperatures=lower efficiency=loss of power

Edited by MrDangerUS

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Lately, I saw a couple of "help, fuel pumps not running" threads, which remainded me of my past experience.

Pumps will not run if your Overspeed Module,RPM module or Inertia Switch is faulty. They may fail in several different ways.

Rule of a thumb: Any 10+ year old electrolytic capacitor should be replaced. Over the years, they leak electrolyte out, or simply dry out and stop working. Also, any capacitor rated 16V or 25V should be replaced by 50V rated parts.

Eng. Overspeed Module and RPM Module, as well as other modules, have at least one electrolytic capacitor on their PC boards.

Check for loose or undersoldered components on the PCB.

Check for bent or burned relay contacts.

Verify relay primary winding continuity with VOM meter

Check Inertia Switch functionality

Also, to be on the safe side, replace all relays w/BUELER 40/60A sealed, dust/water proof,PN#5084W parts with negative spike supression.

Edited by MrDangerUS

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If you decided to replace old fuel tanks with custom made alloy parts, it may be an excellent time to think about incorporating some improvements.

 

I’ve been curious why on 86-88 CIS K-Jetro cars Lotus attached FD fuel return line to the right tank.

That keeps the same batch of fuel circulating over and over making it go “sour” and warming it up every time it completes the loop.

 

IMO, one can reduce fuel aeration and temp rise by attaching the return line to the left tank. Cool fuel in the tank would mix with somewhat warmer return charge, de-aerate and flow trough the cross pipe directly to the right tank sump (from where the external pumps get petrol). Right tank will act only as a leveling vessel providing steady surface for the f/level sending unit.

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There is no "bolt on" (plug and play) replacement turbo for 84-88 MY configuration. If you want to improve on your OE unit, you have to consult a reputable turbo rebuilding company.

 

84-88 Turbo cars have an extension/adapter between the turbo and a down pipe flange, (waste gate mixing chamber), which is not a part of the turbocharger.

On the 89 and later parts, Lotus deleted the extension and incorporated it into the turbocharger.

That adapter creates a choke point (only 1.8" dia!) and can not be machined larger.

 

Give these specs to your builder and see what they can do for you.

88 Lotus Esprit Turbo OE was TC0301:

OE turbine:T3 inducer=1.80, 0.63 housing;

 *Upgrade: T3 .63 A/R turbine housing + increase turbine inducer dia

 

OE compressor: T3 inducer= 1.73”;  0.42, 55 trim  

 *Upgrade: T3 housing ported to “Super 60”, 60 trim + increase compressor inducer dia

 

If it seems too expensive, rebuild your turbo to OE specs and you may remove the spacer ring from the wastegate stack up, which will increase your boost from 7psi to 9.5psi.      

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Rusty fuel tanks replacement,

DIY guide, X180 specific, but others may benefit, too.

 

http://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f164/x180-esprit-turbo-fuel-tanks-diy-265762/

Edited by MrDangerUS

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Welcome to TLF Steve. :welcome: You should duck over to the Introductions thread and say hi in there as well.

All we know is that when they stop making this, we will be properly, properly sad.Jeremy Clarkson on the Esprit.

Opinions are like armpits. Everyone has them, some just stink more than others.

For forum issues, please contact one of us Moderators.

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For those who want to stay purely "Bosch Jetro mechanical" (no computers/processors/maps/data logging, etc.), the best solution is a Volvo 240 Turbo boost sensing WUR  Bosch PN#  0438140123 .  The only modification required is an addition of the Warm Control Pressure adjustment feature, as shown here  http://www.lotustalk.com/forums/newreply.php?do=postreply&t=101095

Everything else remains the same.

 

Any time you play with AFR, adding J&S Safeguard Individual Cylinder Knock Control System is a cheap insurance against melting pistons.

http://www.jandssafeguard.com/VampirePage/Vampire.html

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I decided to get rid of the antiquated mechanical distributor.

I'm only wondering WHAT TOOK ME SO LONG!

 

The obvious things are not so obvious... apparently!

 

For cost and simplicity, my choice is a stand-alone MegaJolt-E.

 

Megajolt is a distributor-less ignition system that is fully mappable (using freeware software) via a laptop, allowing the user to program the ignition to fire at any desired angle BTDC, with reference to engine revs and manifold pressure. More details on Megajolt installation are available here:

http://www.autosportlabs.net/MJLJ_V4_vehicle_installation_guide

 

The distributor is, at best, a compromise between power and economy. It relies on centrifugal weights held by springs, with a vacuum advance unit, and these will tire over time giving non standard performance, and these also have mechanical constraints even when perfect. What Megajolt allows is for a decision to made as to the exact ignition advance required in each discrete situation, which is something the distributor with a vacuum advance unit cannot do.
The ignition components are readily and cheaply available from your local scrappie for about £30 as it uses the Ford EDIS (Electronic Distributor-less Ignition System) components that were used in early to mid 90's Sierras, Escorts, Fiestas and some Mondeos. The ignition controller can be purchased fully built here    http://www.autosportlabs.com, or some sellers in the UK.

 

The EDIS module monitors crank position and communicates to the ignition controller crank position and revs. The ignition controller (the Megajolt unit) looks to its map, and then communicates to the EDIS module when the spark should be fired. If the ignition controller fails to communicate with the EDIS module, the EDIS module will fire the spark at 10°. This is known as "limp home" mode, and is a built in feature of the Ford components. http://www.autosportlabs.net/Ford_EDIS_technical_information

To monitor crank position, some modifications were required. The Ford system uses a variable reluctance sensor against a toothed wheel to know what position the crank is in. The toothed wheel needs to have what is known as 36-1 configuration. That is 36 teeth minus one. The missing tooth signifies to the EDIS unit that number one cylinder is now at 90° BTDC. There are a few solutions to this issue, but all require a VR sensor installing near to the crank pulley looking at a toothed wheel. You may bolt a toothed wheel to the crank pulley, or have teeth machined into the crank pulley flange.

 

I have purchased a bracket and the pulley w/ 36-1 wheel especially made for Lotus by those chaps:

http://www.millersmule.com/MillersMuleStore/en/12-lotus-parts

Direct fitment, plug-and-play.

 

To read more, see this link     http://www.autosportlabs.net/Main_Page

 

Bye, bye old dizzzy!

 

.

Quick Links

Edited by MrDangerUS

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BTW, For European readers the EDIS4 ignition modules can be found in the
following European Ford models.
1989-1993 Fiesta XR2i 1.6
1990-1992 Fiesta RS turbo
1989-1994 Escort 1.6i
1990-1994 Orion 1.6i
Modules are all in the engine bay and typically located in the middle of the
bulkhead or the right hand side as you face the car.
Known part numbers are: 89FB-12K072-AC, 91AB-12K072-AA
More information (including photos of where to look) to help locating the various
EDIS bits necessary can be found at the following link:
http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms1extra/MS_Extra_Ignition_Hardware_Manual.htm#edis

There are always EDIS bits listed in various auctions on Ebay as well. Two
vendors who sell EDIS bits including the 36-1 trigger wheels are:

http://ww5.boostengineering.net/       (USA)

and in UK         http://trigger-wheels.com/store/

Edited by MrDangerUS

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Today, my custom tailored S&J Safeguard anti-knock "Vampire" processor has arrived.banana.gif

For details, go there: J&S Vampire

All pre-89' Turbos are missing several key engine management systems, like reliable boost controller, ECU, electronic spark management and anti-knock protection. Consequences of that may be dire, see my post #68  #72, #170-73  at http://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f164/1986-88-bosch-cis-k-jetronic-injected-esprit-specific-items-101095/index9.html

New engine management, which included a crude anti-knock processor was implemented in 1989 MY, when Delco Engine Management system/ECU was introduced.

On 84-88 Esprit turbos equipped with OE Lucas Hi-Energy Ignition, a single channel Vampire should work fine, but to be on the safe side, an upgrade to Pertronix Ignitor pick-up module and matching hi-energy (45kV !), Flame Thrower Coil would be a prudent precaution.

If one decides to graft-in a Megajolt-E and Ford EDIS (wasted spark, dual coil) ignition system, the Dual Channel processor is required. Megajolt/E | Autosport Labs

Normally, the Vampire is disabled below 1750 RPM, because Ford ECU fires triple spark(s) below this rpm threshold and confuses the processor.
Since Pertronix and Megajolt-E fires only one spark, the Vampire should be modified to enable detection starting at 1250 RPM and sensitivity should be amplified a little bit for our engines . Parts needed: 8mm ID Bosch"doughnut" knock sensor and a 15 ft sensor cable, gauge with 5 ft cable; all included in the kit. John at J&S will take a good care of that.

In addition, one needs to make an aluminum “boss” with M8 threaded hole and epoxy it to the block between cyl 3 & 4, just above the oil sender unit, at the same location where the later SE car Delco ECU listens to the engine knock.

Delco ECU retards all cylinders upon detecting a knock in any one cylinder, therefore robbing the power from other cylinders.
The SafeGuard Vampire controls the timing of each individual cylinder in proportion to the degree of detonation occurring, thus maximizing performance and preventing engine damage.

Vampire has a dual mode switch and retards only the individual knocking suspect, or “retard all”. Also, it has a 2° and 4° Nitrous Retard setting/switch.
MSD coil PN 8241 can be safely used in place of the OEM EDIS coil with excellent results. Avoid any aftermarket "hi performance" coils which look like fluted factory chimney stacks (junk!).

Using a single knock sensor, Vampire detects the onset of detonation and retards the timing on a "per cylinder basis", up to a total of ten increments.
A mode switch lets you select a maximum of either ten degrees or twenty degrees of knock retard.
In the ten degree range, each increment is one degree; double that for the twenty degree range.

When knock is detected, software determines knock intensity and decides how many increments to retard this cylinder the next time it fires.
The software retards in proportion to the knock event, up to a maximum of seven steps with one knock event.

The system is always trying to re-advance to stock timing. In the ten degree mode, it re-advances at the rate of one degree every twenty revolutions; double that in the twenty degree mode.

The system does not need a cam or crankshaft reference sensor to determine which cylinder to retard. The unit is programmed to "know" that the knocking cylinder is the one that just fired, and that it won't fire again for two more revolutions. When the knocking cylinder comes around to fire again, software dials in the retard amount for that cylinder. It does this as each cylinder goes by, building up a different retard amount for each cylinder.
The detection algorithm employs a "knock window" to listen for knock at the appropriate time in the combustion cycle.


Details to follow...

2chVampire.pdf

Edited by MrDangerUS

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..... because Ford ECU fires triple spark(s) below this rpm threshold and confuses the processor.

EDIS doesn't use repetitive spark by default, it is enabled by adding 2048 uSec to the calculated Spark Pulsewidth sent by the ecu to the EDIS module. The maximum rpm that repetitive spark is allowed for is variable and determined by the ecu.
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  • 2 weeks later...

Thank you Derek.

 

The bottom line = Ford OE systems fires the plug three times below 1,750 RPM.

 
Vampire retard would interfere with that, so for stock system ( Ford ECU) config Vampire does not work until the ECU stops multi-sparking.
 
Since we are not using Ford ECU, the detection threshold of the Vampire can be lowered to 1,250 rpm. 
Edited by MrDangerUS

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Posted by: "John Arkwright" lotusesprit87

Hi All

I have received a lot of great help from everyone over the years so I wanted to share a recent problem I debugged in the hope that it will help someone. I have a 1987 Lotus Esprit HCPI with the Bosch fuel injection.

For months now I have had an intermittent issue with the Lotus not always starting. The problem would most likely show up on colder days and when the car hasn’t run in a while.

The issue was the fuel pumps wouldn’t always come on during cranking. So the first things I looked into were the fuel pump and RPM relays. I saw the RPM relay wasn’t providing the 12 volts at times to the fuel pump relay. So I replaced the RPM relay with no change. I then looked into the over-speed module and saw at times during cranking it was not providing the ground to the fuel pump relays. So I now had the RPM relay and the over-speed module not providing the power and ground to the fuel pump at times during cranking. But when power and ground were missing it wasn’t always at the same time. So at this point it looked like I had a duel failure. So for the next step I ensured the power and ground to the RPM and over-speed module were good during cranking. My thought was possibly a voltage drop was present at these modules during cranking. But this was not the case. The only common required inputs for these modules were the ignition pulse from the
negative side of the ignition coil and power and ground. Since power and ground were verified, I then dug into the ignition.

To do this I purchased an 8 channel digital scope to help diagnose the issue. It is a cheap Chinese made PC scope made by Hantek and will operate reliably on an older operating system. The scope is only $100 USD and I also bought a used Windows XP laptop for $100 USD. So the cost wasn’t too bad. The problem was very frustrating to diagnose. I would have the car fully instrumented for weeks at a time. But it seems every time I instrumented the car, the car would always start.

I tapped into the pick-up coil voltage from the distributor along with other points such as fuel pump voltage and the primary and secondary of the ignition coil.
Figure 1 in the attached file shows the voltage from the pick-up coil. It measure about 0.7 volts peak to peak. The waveform also shows the amplitude sometime being high enough at times to allow the ignition amp to fire the ignition. Also once the car started, the pick-up coil voltage increases to a few volts. Since the amplitude of the pick-up coil was irregular I took the distributor cap off and looked at the pick-up coil. This is rather difficult since the distributor is buried underneath the intake manifold. I could see the pick-up coil was loose. But the 2 mounting screws were tight.

This was due to the threads of the screws that hold the coil plate down don’t go all the way to the plate (Figure 2). I had to use a fiber optic camera to see this with the distributor in the car. So I installed brass lock washers to take up the non-threaded area.

After fastening down the coil, the pick-up coil now produces a steady 2 volt peak to peak level during cranking (Figure 3). And now, the car starts the instant the key is turned. This makes total sense. On warmer days the oil is thinner and the engine cranks faster. So when the magnet spins across coil faster, a higher voltage is produced and triggers the ignition amp to allow the car to start. This also explains why once the car was started, there wasn’t an issue running. Also some days the coil was probably in the correct position, allowing the car to start.

One note - when the ignition input was missing from the over-speed module, it would not provide the ground to the fuel pump relays. So in a way it acted like an RPM relay. I also dug into the design of the RPM relay. It is based on a LM555 timer chip popular in the 80s. I hope this information becomes useful to someone.

Attached Files

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