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Hello all, been a while since I posted and this one is just as vague lol ... Car was due in for MOT but failed due to 1 x leaking Shock on the rear, have ordered a Bilstein and will have replaced within a day or two when it arrives, however once the car had been tested I drove it home (approx 3 miles) and put her safely in the garage ...left her for the Bank Holiday etc and went to check on her today .. nothing registered ..alarm ..nothing :( .. Tried again and the alarm worked, so sat in, key in and only some of the light came up on the dash but she wouldnt start or tick over or anything ... lights still come on ... would this indicate the starter motor or could it potentially be something nice and simple and cheap (drops to knees and prays) so, any suggestions fellow money burners ?? The reason I ask is I have read various threads, some of which mention the battery dying quickly etc.

Thanks all in advance for any replies. Still love the car more than anything :)

Now to to update anyone even remotely interested in my previous thread re : Burning smell :- Took the car to Christopher Neil and they couldn't find anything ..smell subsided and that was that :( so in all honesty never found out what the hell it was much to my frustration, but got the belts changed while I was there :)

Oh and while I am asking (probably daft questions) my car temperature reached 100 when being put through the MOT so he popped the heaters on just incase lol as it was a hot day and was being revved to test emissions, what is the general temperature the engine should be at as it was around 77 from June last year then around 82-88 more recently ?

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I would start by charging the battery. I don't think it would have overheated at the testing station and putting on the heater was the right thing to do to help.

The burning smell may have been something on or against the exhaust that has now burnt off.

S4 Elan, Elan +2S, Federal-spec, World Championship Edition S2 Esprit #42, S1 Elise, Excel SE

 

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Another vote for the battery, I have had to change mine through lack of use and the symptons are identical.

Edit - when garaging mine I don't set the perimiter alarm, the battery will last longer that way. Found that one out quite quickly! The imobiliser will always be on and thats what draws your battery.

Regarding temperature, when running my car is always at a steady 88 degrees. If the car is stationary and it does rise to 100 degrees the fan always kicks in just after and that soon brings the temp back down after a minute or so. Your car sounds fine to me!

Edited by Nelly9000
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Thanks all for the advice, however no luck. Hooked her up to my mates motor but the car would not start. Engine management light on now ! Checked the fuses and all ok there. Not having a lot of luck this month :(

Any suggestions welcome

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Ah well, how quickly things turn around, and can only confirm good tools make life easier ! Couldn't understand why the battery did not sort the problem so checked the connection and it showed the jump leads used were knackered and minimal power was being transferred - honestly gob smacked it could be something as simple as that ! So I hooked it up again with new leads and just for one moment the dash all came to life ! This gave me a little hope so tried to charge it a little more, no joy, checked the battery and it was as dead as could be. Raced off to get another battery, replaced it and hey presto :) life in the girl again !! One thing I have noticed tho is that the warning lamp is illuminated and stays on :( I did read in the handbook that the management system can take a while to right itself and will need to re-learn when the battery has been disconnected etc .. but wondered if this is a potentially underlying problem I need to get fixed. Other than that, new shock fitted and ready for MOT again !

Thanks all for your suggestions and advice

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You mean your MiL light? Yes, it will need to be read and re-set. Any OBD2 reader should be able to perform this task. Most likely linked to your low voltage issue so can probably be ignored.

Do run a meter across the battery while the engine is running (with+without headlights on too) just to make sure your alternator is sound.

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Just another note - I had an issue following my first battery reconnect where the car was stalling at low revs. It was sorted by the garage but has never been perfect. I was told it would relearn itself but 8 years on I am still waiting...

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