Interior Insulation Heat/Sound

[Guy W Johnson]

What do I need to keep heat and sound out of the cabin?

Guy

[Guest Troy Halliday]

Their are several things on the market one is called Dynamat but costs a small fortune, well actualy a large fortune. Or there is the normal felt underlay with a rubber top serfice. I got the best quality stuff I could get my hands on it was about 13mm thick with quite a think rubber serfice coat. Here is a link of a good supplier Woolies Trimmers

Here is a quick pic of part of my install

[Loose Cannon]

http://www.b-quiet.com/ultimate.html

Did you drive yours much before the resto Troy? How much difference did the new insulation make? I've got some bitumen sheet I was planning to fit, and a sheet of lead/foam sandwich for the bulkhead (although it's not quite big enough, they had ran out it was so popular). Have a couple of jobs to do that involve removing seats/carpets so was planning a feww weeks off road later in the year.

[Guest Troy Halliday]

Simple answer is I had never driven it.

Because we don't have metal cars we already have more sound insulation than most. Bitimen sheets and the like usualy take out the resonance of a metal panel. I did fit it to the doors inner skin but mainly becase it was quite thin and I didn't want any distortion of my speakers that were mounted there.

The main reason for my change was a water leak that had wrotten the firewall and carpets. So it had that church kind of smell going on. I do find my Esprit relatively quiet but do need to get some better door seal. I was going to put a foam tube section through the doorseal to give them a bit more body.

[Loose Cannon]

I was going to add a bit to the doors too, like you say for the benefit of the speakers.

Know what you mean about the seals. The door apertures seem to have a huge range of gaps for them to fill; in places they are crushed to death, in others they are lucky to touch the surface they are meant to seal. Thought about replacing the rubbers from a roll, the supplier below has a profile which looks spookily similar to Lotus, no. 180/rubber/2 door??

http://www.automobiletrim.com/door-seal-rubber.html

However unlike Woolies they will only sell 10m as a minimum. I like your idea of a foam tube insert though.

Edited June 27, 2006 by britten_mark

[f1karting]

these guys have great products, great service and good prices.. and the stuff we need for our cars (except the boot and deck lid seals)... actually still looking for a source for those..(you know the oval shaped tube)..

http://www.scottsoldautorubber.com.au/catalogue.htm

[f1karting]

What do I need to keep heat and sound out of the cabin?

Guy

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I am going to try thinsulate acoustic insulation (super light weight) and very good attenuation above 2000 hz. The lower frequencies are a bit more challenging to eliminate without using the multi-layer multi density composites mentioned. I am stilll looking for options. I do notice how much noise comes thru the firewall area openings, like the speaker holes and other penetrations. So I bellieve sealing/ damping those would help a lot. Also, the interior fresh air outlets are right by your ear and exhaust to the car exterior near the engine bay air intakes.. I would think a lot of noise finds its way into the cabin thru that route.

The OE insulation in my car tipped 60lbs!! I want to eliminate that weight AND the noise..

my 0.02

J

[Guy W Johnson]

I am looking into DynaSpray made by Dynamat.

Guy