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Hi there - I've recently had my AC recharged and upgraded to the R134 stuff and since then the car tends to run a bit hotter than normal.

Water normally sits at about 80 now tends to sit around 90+. Oil temp also sits higher than the normal 80.

I know its warm out but was wondering if its normal.

Also - I'm fairly sure I read something on the site whilst doing my background reading. Or did I dream that?

Thanks for any help in advance.

Charlie

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Do the readings immediately drop to normal when the A/C is turned off?

If they do , I would suspect that extra current drawn through the A/C controls is affecting the gauge readings.

Just a thought.......

Paul.

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Hi

Temp doesn't drop immediately when the AC is off but it helps if you put the heating on and open the windows for a bit. Then it drops down to normal.

Its not gone in the red yet as I've taken evasive action by that stage.

Calvin: um. maybe a dumb question but how? Circuit tester type thing?

Edited by CharlieC
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Does the car have any of the new temperature characteristics when the a/c is left off and never turned on? If so...then problem is totally unrelated.

If it does happen when the a/c is on, it may actually be caused by the a/c. If it wasn't charged properly, then you could have higher condenser temps, which would be passed through to the radiator, and in turn raise water temp.

Since you say that the oil temp is higher, it sounds though like the overall temperature of the engine is warmer. I would do the typical like check thermostat, level of coolant, obstructions in front of radiator, condition of spark plugs as well as gap, and be sure timing is correct (if you have access to freescan).

How much is 'warmer' out....like usually it's 80F, now it's 110F? :) Because it could be normal for the conditions.

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Hi

Temp doesn't drop immediately when the AC is off but it helps if you put the heating on and open the windows for a bit. Then it drops down to normal.

Its not gone in the red yet as I've taken evasive action by that stage.

Calvin: um. maybe a dumb question but how? Circuit tester type thing?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

If you can cool it down using the heater it sounds like you have flow restriciton problem. I suppose you could have a radiator core problem, but lets go with the easy things first.

A quick check that you should do is take your coolant cap and have it pressure tested a faulty cap will cause higher engine temps. In the USA they have a tester at most auto supply shops that one can use at no charge. a lot of repair garages and service stations have them too.

Just below the timing belt by the intake cam gear you will see the coolant hose connected to a metal housing which is held onto the block by 2 bolts. If you undo the 2 bolts it will come off the block and inside of it you will see the thermosat (you will lose a bit of coolant when you do this). This thermostat is supposed to open up after the coolant in the block heat up to operating temps. Its there to speed up warm up times as it restricts the flow to the radiator. Many times a worn out thermostat will not open up all the way or will only open up at higher temps. Some faulty ones will not open at all causing an overheat. An easy test is to remove the it, suspend it with a string so it is not touching the bottom or sides of the pan to make sure you are measuring the water and not the pan, drop it in a pan of water of water on the stove. Start with cold water and turn the stove on. Using a thermometer measure when it opens up. Last time I used the kitchem meat thermometer and the wife got mad at me and warned not to use her kitchen utensils on car parts but what she does not know will not hurt her. A good one will fully open up at the correct temp.

Just remeber to put it back in the right direction and orientation or it will not work correctly, use a new gasket and make sure the seal is tight when re attaching the bolts. In other words put it back in exactly as you found it. I knew a guy that put it in backwards and the coolant got really hot.

As long as it is opened up a lot of people just skip the test and put in a new one as it only costs a few dollars or a couple of pounds in the UK. When replacing it they also come in different temp rating from the stock ones, just get correct one for your climate. If you live in a really hot area many opt to get one that opens up at lower temps and if you live in a really cold area they put in one that opens up at higher temps. In the USA the temp ratings are usually stamped on the housing.

If you have a flow restriction in your cooling system, try back flushing the system by disconnecting the lines going up front and hooking up a water hose with clamps. Important to reverse the flow to get out as much trash as you can. I have seen a lot rust and such come shooting out, or other times hardly any at all. Depends on how often you change coolant. You are supposed to change coolant on a regular basis but I have run across Esprit's that looked like they still had the original coolant in it after many years by the corrosion that came shooting out. Remeber to flush the heater core too. The real bother is to bleed the air out once the system is flushed.

On another note the chargecooler coolant is supposed to be flushed and changed regularly too. I have seen some really nasty things shooting out during a back flush the chargecooler system. Best to remove the chargecooler lines from the pump when flushing and clean the box out seperately. No wonder so many pump impellors fails with the large chunks of rust that comes shooting out.

Good luck,

Calvin

Edited by CNH
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Many thanks for the advice guys.

Paul (PVK): THis is the curious thing, the temp doesn't drop immediately after turning the AC off. The temp here now is nudging the 30's (whatever that is in F?).

So Paul93: it might be just the ambient temp. When I bought it in a very cold March of this year it seemed to take the oil temp an age to rise. I have recently topped it up with some other oil - stuff I'd use on the Honda. Just got me wondering if that could effect the oil temp in such conditions?

And Calvin: Many thanks - it sounds like I need to get my tools together and my hands dirty (hasn't happened in a while!) I'll check the thermostat, A few weeks ago the coolant was low so I topped it up with about 2cl of water. It doesn't seem to be losing any since. I'd feel better with the system cleared out and would'nt mind having a go at it myself.

Any way - the thing isn't out of control yet (drove in happily this morning) :) so I'll get my overalls out and a tub of swarfega on the shopping list!

Cheers again guys

Charlie

Edited by CharlieC
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Many thanks for the advice guys.

Paul (PVK): THis is the curious thing, the temp doesn't drop immediately after turning the AC off. The temp here now is nudging the 30's (whatever that is in F?).

So Paul93: it might be just the ambient temp. When I bought it in a very cold March of this year it seemed to take the oil temp an age to rise. I have recently topped it up with some other oil - stuff I'd use on the Honda. Just got me wondering if that could effect the oil temp in such conditions?

And Calvin: Many thanks - it sounds like I need to get my tools together and my hands dirty (hasn't happened in a while!) I'll check the thermostat, A few weeks ago the coolant was low so I topped it up with about 2cl of water. It doesn't seem to be losing any since. I'd feel better with the system cleared out and would'nt mind having a go at it myself.

Any way - the thing isn't out of control yet (drove in happily this morning)

Edited by PVK 596Y
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I have recently topped it up with some other oil - stuff I'd use on the Honda. Just got me wondering if that could effect the oil temp in such conditions?

Charlie

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

You need to clarify that statement?

How much oil did you put in and what weight?

Honda's in the USA usually use 5 or 10-30w.

Our cars use 20-50 or when using synthetic 5 or 10-50w

I suppose using a liter or so of lighter grade oil is better than running the motor low on oil taking the lesser of the 2 evils You did only put in a liter os didn't you? I would not make a habit of it but it probably did not hurt it any. But try and use the right grade and keep a container of oil in the car. A good place to keep an extra plastic bottle of oil is under the front bonnet. find a good place to wedge it near the spare tire. either way your temps are not too bad. Yes the radiator does hold a lot of road debris but you will find out how much trash it can hold once you have removed it. even will all the rocks and debris it still does do quite a ood job at cooling so unless it is really impacted and cloged it still should cool the car.

Therostats can fail a few ways. The first is easy as it fails to open at all. the 2 other ways it fails is that it either fails to open all the way or opens up at a higher temp, They just get a bit tired. If you flush the systems you will be amazed at what comes shooting out especially the charesooler. black gunk and fairly large pieces of rust probably from the header and pipes. I can see why the impellors vanes fell off. The header tank was gross it was so bad that I had to descale it CLR until it became shiney and smooth. It appears my previous owner did not change coolants often although he was better at taking care of other items.

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Hi Calvin - yes just a litre. Won't water it down any more after this.

As I understand from the history the coolant was chaged a couple of years ago although it the car has done nearly 20000 miles since then.

I went out in it in town last night in heavy traffic to see if I could get it misbehaving but it all seems normal again. Wondering if its just the ambient temp effecting it.

But then the slow puncter that turned up a few weeks ago has also disappeared.

I'm tempted to name the car christine.

THanks all for advice!

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