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Engine rebuild

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I have a friend (cough cough) who has recently taken out the engine from their Elite. Now, say this friend of mine removed the timing belt without lining up the marks and all that and things have moved about a bit, how would this friend set it all again?

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I think your friend might like to see the Sparkmeister, if you care to pass the telephone number to him.

Trevor.


I'll get around to it at some point.

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Paul

Hopefully you already set TDC before taking the belt off ? If so, you just line up the marks on the cam pulleys, make sure the crank marks still line up, and go from there.

If not you need to find TDC without crunching a valve. I 'm guessing, but I imagine, worst case, you would have to lift the cams to rotate to find TDC?

There is a good description in the manual of the standard procedure.

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Didn't set it to TDC before taking the belt off. I'm going to take the head off I think and then I can go from there.

The manual says fit liner clamps to stop the liners being pushed out, can I buy these from somewhere I do I have to make them from scratch?

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Well, if you're going to take the head off, ok.

Otherwise, assume you've not moved the pulleys more than 10-20 degrees, turn the crank back 90deg (stop if you feel resistance!!), and with cam covers off, check cam lobes for no.1 are 'on the rock'. Don't forget there are two TDC positions in the Otto cycle!

Liner clamps, easy to make your own, use large penny washers secured in place with tubing (I used spare gudgeon pins - perfect length).

Good luck!

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Could you not just take of the cam towers? that would allow all the valves to spring back up out of the way, and you don't have to worry about liners and head gaskets. Good time to check shims too.

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Update - thought I'd chance my luck and fit the belt back on as I was 60% sure the cam sprockets and crank hadn't turned. Turning the crank by hand the engine turns over with no sticking or bad noises.

When I line the marks up on the cam sprockets the crank notch is about half an inch away from the timing block thing.

What to do!?

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OK. Was going to put the engine and gearbox back in the car this weekend as I've done everything I need to do in the engine bay.

I did a compression test whilst the engine is on the bench, turning the engine over by hand.

Here are the results:

 

Starting with the cylinder closet to the gearbox (rear of the engine) 25psi

Next - 45psi

Next - 45psi

Next - 39psi

 

I know you can't get the proper results of a compression test when the engine is cold and turning it over by hand on the crank but thats the only test I can do. Thinking I will have to rebuild the engine. 

 

Cost wise how much is a DIY job to do this? LotusBits charge £2500 before VAT!! Me can't afford that.

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Assuming you have an air compressor, take an airline and push into the spark plug holes (all plugs out and ideally but not strictly necessary exhaust manifold off), when the air is pushed down a cylinder, where does it escape from?

 

Little escapes = all good

Exhaust = exhaust valve not sealing

Carb/inlet manifold = inlet valve

oil dipstick/oil filler = rings

Cooant system = OH shit! HG/ head/ any other place the two come close.

Another plug hole/ exhaust aperture of another cylinder/ inlet aperture for another cylinder = leak between cylinders

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Really strong curry the night before... :harhar:

 

 

Ideally you'd want to know the cause or at least a strong idea of the cause before pulling it apart unless you want to replace/ service all likely items.

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I agree, but I don't see how I'm going to do that. 

I'll have to bite the bullet and strip it down and see whats going on. It'll be fun I suppose if nothing else! My first engine rebuild.... a 907!

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I would just put it back in and run it, then check the compression.  I suspect it may not be 100% factory spec, but I'm sure it'll be fine for the next 20K miles.     

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