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S4 exhaust manifold needed s/s or cast?


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i got a stainless one made not cheap but i feel it was worth the money phone stainless exhaust specialists and ask for don 01623 552262 tell him pete said to ring

although you can get a replacement cast one (but my car has had about four of these even an uprated sw lotus one).

It's Oogies turn to boogie

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Dave Freeman did the same. Drop him a PM.

Caught between a rock and a hard place in a catch 22 situation, So its 6 of one and half a dozen of the other. Your damned if you do, but your damned if you don't so shut your cock!!!!!!!!!!!

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I thought Dave fell out with the guy who made his?

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Had mine repaired with no issues, but it would depend on who does it and what they use to weld it with as to how long it will last...im not sure if its common knowledge, but these manifolds are very high in nickle content, which is how its able to return to its correct shape after heating up with the high temperatures during running,avoiding cracking or distortion usually. It makes it just flexible enough....so I had mine welded with nickle. 30 quid repair with no issues...

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  • 2 months later...

Same boat guys - probably the third or fourth time I've needed a new exhaust manifold since Lottie was new in 1990. What's the latest 'best advice' on this job. These lumps of iron DO see horribly expensive for what thay are, so a tubular option could be worthwhile. Have spoken to PUK, PNM and Alunox after reading these threads. PUK are out of the tubular systems but can do an 'improved' cast one for 1299 euros, plus gaskets, VAT and delivery, Alunox have quoted £1300 for a tubular system with brace kit - but haven't replied to my email about whether VAT is also included, and PNM are probably closed for the Diamond Jubilee, though Pete said last week he had an 'improved' cast supplier and would check on availability.

Any thoughts from TLF members more than welcome.

Edited by islandbloke

Proud recipient of the LEF 'Car of the Month Award' February 2008

"Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming: "Wow, what a ride!!"

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What exactly is the fault on you manifold? They can be repaired reliably. So long as you get the right guy doing it who understands the makeup of the material used originally...as I mentioned before, the.chap I used nickle welded it. But it was a hole not a crack...i think in terms of longevity as far as I know the "aftermarket" ones and some stainless arnt up to the job. But like anything, its down to how you use the car...

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I though the cast manifold had to be brazed, not welded?

Amateurs built the Ark

Professionals built the Titanic

"I haven't ridden in cars pulled by cows before" "Bullocks, Mr.Belcher" "No, I haven't, honestly"

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Darren - I havent seen the old manifold, but the garage says it's a basket case and has died of old age - apparently even the stud holes are all elongated. However, I'll pop in and look at it tomorrow. Best deal so far on an alternative seems to be Alunox stainless tube - price includes everything according to Leon there, so unless my old one is repairable that's what I'll do.Probably.

Proud recipient of the LEF 'Car of the Month Award' February 2008

"Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming: "Wow, what a ride!!"

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Some pictures. No apparent holes or cracks in the old manifold, which is a bonus - so I'll take it to the local experts and see if it can be fettled. What these don't show is that the thickness of the flanges decreases significantly from cylinder 1 to cylinder 4, almost as though someone has already tried to skim the mating face flat but made a bugger of it. The local garage have cleaned up the faces - as you can see none of them are flat, so no wonder my turbo wasn't boosting properly. Also (I'm not an engineer) it seems that the outside cylinder stud holes are significantly bigger than the inners - were these things made like that to allow for expansion or poor manufacturing tolerances. You can see the corrosion has eaten part of the web, but that's paper thin anyway so I guess it's not important.

Again, comments/suggestions more than welcome if anyone has a 'eureka' moment!

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Proud recipient of the LEF 'Car of the Month Award' February 2008

"Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming: "Wow, what a ride!!"

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Not looking great....the webbing is important as the manifold expands and contracts a lot, and it needs to be kept in shape and supported as much as possible... with regards to stainless manifolds, I believe there are some not very good ones out there ( as with aftermarket replacement cast manifolds)..so do be carefull. The quality of the materials used in the metal is of paramount importance...and Im not sure all of them use the best. There are a few older threads about with reviews on their quality/longevity...do some research first!

Just on my personal preference, until a well proven stainless manifold is about, Ill stick to the original..even though its heavy, prone to issues and is restrictive in its flow...Id rather wait and put good money on the best..

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Think I am going to have to replace the manifold soon, still on original after 15 years so has to be close. The only time I have had a C service done at a garage in 07 they said there was a crack in the manifold but 5 years later it's not made itself audiable.

I love the idea of a stainless one but like Darren urge caution, at a £1000 a pop you dont want to be taking it off very often for a repair. I think the S300 race cars in the 90's used stainless but they only had to last for a race.

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Spot on there ade....a wise man told me the other month that they did last one race....then they were too warped or microscopicly fractured to be of use...might have been the same wise man you know! If yours isnt causing issues.yet, maybe its.time to get it repaired or test. Crack tested to.see how bad it is and if its worth it...ive also heard, from several sources, that some of the aftermarket cast ones are not as good as original material...

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That's a thing of beauty Pete - I'll phone Don for a price tomorrow.

Proud recipient of the LEF 'Car of the Month Award' February 2008

"Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming: "Wow, what a ride!!"

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Think I am going to have to replace the manifold soon, still on original after 15 years so has to be close. The only time I have had a C service done at a garage in 07 they said there was a crack in the manifold but 5 years later it's not made itself audiable.

You need to be careful as particles can break away from the crack & smash the vanes of the turbo. :thumbdown:

Cheers,

John W

http://jonwatkins.co.uk

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