What Type of Engine Oil

[markjonesx 1]

OK, whats the best? 20/50? Brand? natural/synthetic?

Edited April 12, 2012 by markjonesx

[Bibs 11,687]

http://www.lotusespritworld.com/EGuides/ETechnical/oil.html

[Sir Paolo 5]

There was a thread regarding this recently. A good quality synthetic with a decent level of ZDDP is desireable.

Fuchs Titan R seems to tick all the boxes at the moment.

[s2mikey 1]

My vote is Valvoline 20/50 VR1 Racing oil. Its called out right in the manual and I really like it. Great oil pressure, even when really hot. Fairly priced. Avialbale at my local parts store.

Whatever you do, do NOT use thin oil. Stick with a 20/50 or a 15/50. Thats what these engines were meant to run on. Some people will say a thinner oil is better for startup. Maybe a little bit, but you'll destroy the engine with that stuff once warmed up.

[mat1234 0]

I would agree with Valvoline 20/50 synthetic, and change it regularly

[Chris Southam 0]

I've just replaced my S2 with unknown oil (believed to be 5W/40) with 10W/60 based on the link Bibs has included.

http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/engine-oil/millers-oils-cfs-motorsport-engine-oil

Wondering if I made the right choice now...

[molemot 521]

10/60 synthetic is what I use in my 82 turbo. The original recommended oils have been overtaken in performance by pretty much everything, these days...progress!! I may be teaching granny eggsucking, but the "10" bit means that it has the viscosity of a 10 weight oil when cold...which is still pretty thick...and the "60" bit means that it has the viscosity of a 60 weight oil when hot....which is still pretty thin. Multigrade oils don't get thicker as they get hot, they simply become less thin! So a 10/60 has a lower viscosity when cold, at which point it is an advantage as the engine is easier to crank and the oil flows through all the oilways, pump, etc and gets to where it's needed. Then, once you're up to temperature, the oil doesn't get as thin, which keeps the oil pressure up to the mark and maintains the oil film in the bearings etc.

10/60 isn't a "thin" oil per se, but has the best characteristics at both ends of the temperature range. I've been using it for years, and still have no measurable crank wear in 100,000+ miles.

[s2mikey 1]

10/60 synthetic is what I use in my 82 turbo. The original recommended oils have been overtaken in performance by pretty much everything, these days...progress!! I may be teaching granny eggsucking, but the "10" bit means that it has the viscosity of a 10 weight oil when cold...which is still pretty thick...and the "60" bit means that it has the viscosity of a 60 weight oil when hot....which is still pretty thin. Multigrade oils don't get thicker as they get hot, they simply become less thin! So a 10/60 has a lower viscosity when cold, at which point it is an advantage as the engine is easier to crank and the oil flows through all the oilways, pump, etc and gets to where it's needed. Then, once you're up to temperature, the oil doesn't get as thin, which keeps the oil pressure up to the mark and maintains the oil film in the bearings etc.

10/60 isn't a "thin" oil per se, but has the best characteristics at both ends of the temperature range. I've been using it for years, and still have no measurable crank wear in 100,000+ miles.

I agree with you that oils have improved over the years. However, our engines were designed at a time when they had to rely on the what was available at the time. The engines themselves cant be improved like the oils can! Maybe that doesnt make total sense but IMO who knows if these modern, improved oils are actually better for our cars? I question it to some extent. Look at the ZDDP thats been removed over the years.....thats a great example of "hi tech" oil actually hurting our engines, not helping them. There are other EPA-friendly things going on too with oil. I dunno if the new stuff is always better than the older fomulations.

Your 10/60 is a fine choice - its called out in the manual so all good there. The three oils listed in my '87 factory service manual are: Mobil 15/50, Elf 10/60, and Valvoline VR1 Racing oil 20/50.

[esprit22 87]

Just about to order oil and filter myself, going for Castrol Edge Sport 10/60 and the K&N HP2004 filter.

Have used the Castrol last oil change and seems fine but there are so many different oils to choose from...guess its just personal choice.

Am I right in thinking oil change inc filter takes 6.5 litres??

Edited May 1, 2012 by esprit22

[Sir Paolo 5]

I agree with you that oils have improved over the years. However, our engines were designed at a time when they had to rely on the what was available at the time. The engines themselves cant be improved like the oils can! Maybe that doesnt make total sense but IMO who knows if these modern, improved oils are actually better for our cars? I question it to some extent. Look at the ZDDP thats been removed over the years.....thats a great example of "hi tech" oil actually hurting our engines, not helping them. There are other EPA-friendly things going on too with oil. I dunno if the new stuff is always better than the older fomulations.

Your 10/60 is a fine choice - its called out in the manual so all good there. The three oils listed in my '87 factory service manual are: Mobil 15/50, Elf 10/60, and Valvoline VR1 Racing oil 20/50.

Interesting point - I contacted Castrol some time ago (about Edge 10/60) and I spoke to a techie chap who assured me that although the ZDDP levels were lower, the actual lubrication and protection afforded was better due to purer and stronger strains of ZDDP being used.