markjonesx 1 Posted April 12, 2012 Report Share Posted April 12, 2012 (edited) OK, whats the best? 20/50? Brand? natural/synthetic? Edited April 12, 2012 by markjonesx Quote Esprit S1, 238G, Blog Online Photo's This car was most definately hand built, NOTHING FITS! Link to post Share on other sites
Bibs 11,415 Posted April 12, 2012 Report Share Posted April 12, 2012 http://www.lotusespritworld.com/EGuides/ETechnical/oil.html Quote 88 Esprit NA, 89 Esprit Turbo SE, Evora, Evora S, Evora IPS, Evora S IPS, Evora S IPS SR, Evora 400, Elise S1, Elise S1 111s, Evora GT410 Sport Evora NA For forum issues, please contact the Moderators. I will aim to respond to emails/PM's Mon-Fri 9-6 GMT. Link to post Share on other sites
Sir Paolo 5 Posted April 16, 2012 Report Share Posted April 16, 2012 There was a thread regarding this recently. A good quality synthetic with a decent level of ZDDP is desireable. Fuchs Titan R seems to tick all the boxes at the moment. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
s2mikey 1 Posted April 28, 2012 Report Share Posted April 28, 2012 My vote is Valvoline 20/50 VR1 Racing oil. Its called out right in the manual and I really like it. Great oil pressure, even when really hot. Fairly priced. Avialbale at my local parts store. Whatever you do, do NOT use thin oil. Stick with a 20/50 or a 15/50. Thats what these engines were meant to run on. Some people will say a thinner oil is better for startup. Maybe a little bit, but you'll destroy the engine with that stuff once warmed up. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mat1234 0 Posted April 28, 2012 Report Share Posted April 28, 2012 I would agree with Valvoline 20/50 synthetic, and change it regularly Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chris Southam 0 Posted April 28, 2012 Report Share Posted April 28, 2012 I've just replaced my S2 with unknown oil (believed to be 5W/40) with 10W/60 based on the link Bibs has included. http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/engine-oil/millers-oils-cfs-motorsport-engine-oil Wondering if I made the right choice now... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
molemot 521 Posted April 28, 2012 Report Share Posted April 28, 2012 10/60 synthetic is what I use in my 82 turbo. The original recommended oils have been overtaken in performance by pretty much everything, these days...progress!! I may be teaching granny eggsucking, but the "10" bit means that it has the viscosity of a 10 weight oil when cold...which is still pretty thick...and the "60" bit means that it has the viscosity of a 60 weight oil when hot....which is still pretty thin. Multigrade oils don't get thicker as they get hot, they simply become less thin! So a 10/60 has a lower viscosity when cold, at which point it is an advantage as the engine is easier to crank and the oil flows through all the oilways, pump, etc and gets to where it's needed. Then, once you're up to temperature, the oil doesn't get as thin, which keeps the oil pressure up to the mark and maintains the oil film in the bearings etc. 10/60 isn't a "thin" oil per se, but has the best characteristics at both ends of the temperature range. I've been using it for years, and still have no measurable crank wear in 100,000+ miles. Quote Scientists investigate that which already is; Engineers create that which has never been." - Albert Einstein Link to post Share on other sites
s2mikey 1 Posted April 29, 2012 Report Share Posted April 29, 2012 10/60 synthetic is what I use in my 82 turbo. The original recommended oils have been overtaken in performance by pretty much everything, these days...progress!! I may be teaching granny eggsucking, but the "10" bit means that it has the viscosity of a 10 weight oil when cold...which is still pretty thick...and the "60" bit means that it has the viscosity of a 60 weight oil when hot....which is still pretty thin. Multigrade oils don't get thicker as they get hot, they simply become less thin! So a 10/60 has a lower viscosity when cold, at which point it is an advantage as the engine is easier to crank and the oil flows through all the oilways, pump, etc and gets to where it's needed. Then, once you're up to temperature, the oil doesn't get as thin, which keeps the oil pressure up to the mark and maintains the oil film in the bearings etc. 10/60 isn't a "thin" oil per se, but has the best characteristics at both ends of the temperature range. I've been using it for years, and still have no measurable crank wear in 100,000+ miles. I agree with you that oils have improved over the years. However, our engines were designed at a time when they had to rely on the what was available at the time. The engines themselves cant be improved like the oils can! Maybe that doesnt make total sense but IMO who knows if these modern, improved oils are actually better for our cars? I question it to some extent. Look at the ZDDP thats been removed over the years.....thats a great example of "hi tech" oil actually hurting our engines, not helping them. There are other EPA-friendly things going on too with oil. I dunno if the new stuff is always better than the older fomulations. Your 10/60 is a fine choice - its called out in the manual so all good there. The three oils listed in my '87 factory service manual are: Mobil 15/50, Elf 10/60, and Valvoline VR1 Racing oil 20/50. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
esprit22 85 Posted May 1, 2012 Report Share Posted May 1, 2012 (edited) Just about to order oil and filter myself, going for Castrol Edge Sport 10/60 and the K&N HP2004 filter. Have used the Castrol last oil change and seems fine but there are so many different oils to choose from...guess its just personal choice. Am I right in thinking oil change inc filter takes 6.5 litres?? Edited May 1, 2012 by esprit22 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sir Paolo 5 Posted May 2, 2012 Report Share Posted May 2, 2012 I agree with you that oils have improved over the years. However, our engines were designed at a time when they had to rely on the what was available at the time. The engines themselves cant be improved like the oils can! Maybe that doesnt make total sense but IMO who knows if these modern, improved oils are actually better for our cars? I question it to some extent. Look at the ZDDP thats been removed over the years.....thats a great example of "hi tech" oil actually hurting our engines, not helping them. There are other EPA-friendly things going on too with oil. I dunno if the new stuff is always better than the older fomulations. Your 10/60 is a fine choice - its called out in the manual so all good there. The three oils listed in my '87 factory service manual are: Mobil 15/50, Elf 10/60, and Valvoline VR1 Racing oil 20/50. Interesting point - I contacted Castrol some time ago (about Edge 10/60) and I spoke to a techie chap who assured me that although the ZDDP levels were lower, the actual lubrication and protection afforded was better due to purer and stronger strains of ZDDP being used. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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