Mikie711 Posted July 7, 2012 Report Share Posted July 7, 2012 (edited) Bibs, put this in general chat as it's kinda a bit of everything but feel free to move to where may be more appropriate. Thought I'd cross post this from SE. I statred Lotus ownership why back with a Lotus Sunbeam then about 5 years ago I bought an S1 which over the coarse of a few years I tuned all the way to 240bhp. Then sold that along with my S2 Exige I also had and bought a 2-11 which was a fantastic car but obviously very compromised. Then moved on to my current car a NA Evora. So it had been a while since I had a project. About the time I bought the Evora I decided that I needed something to do and hatched a plan which involved a sheddy 111r. About the same time it seems the market decided that 111r's were grossly undervalued and price shot up 4k in a matter of a couple of months. What you could buy for 12k became 16k and all the sheds disappeared as people realised it was worth spending the money to clean up their cars and get the extra cash this brought. As a consequence of this market trend, accident damaged cars also shot up and as such cat C & D cars prices took a similar hike. This all put a hold to any plans involving 111r's. When you look at some of the accident damaged cars that do come up for sale it's obvious why they were written off, most have had some sort of chassis damage either directly or indirectly from losing suspension components. These are just a non starter with so much cost and time in carrying out a chassis swap and all the associated problems there in. My patience finally paid off when earlier this month an Ideal candidate came up for sale on Coparts. The car looked ideal, passenger side rear end damage, all 4 wheels still attached and as you will see from the pictures not that bad. The prudent thing to do would be to go and see the car but due to the timings this wasn't possible so many phone calls and picture studying later I decide to at least make an attempt to buy it at auction. You guessed it, I won. 15283842_2X by Mikie711, on Flickr Car arrived at mine tonight and first inspection of the damage looks good. So far it looks like one rear clam, one toe link ball joint, one grill, a tyre and a couple of brackets.The very end of the sub frame longeron has been bent but looks like more from the brackets bolted to it moving rather than impact but will find out tomorrow once the clam comes off. The jobs list looks something like this at the moment: strip off clam assess damage repair damage including full geo etc amass parts for conversion bolt said parts onto car. How this will differ from my S1 is that all the parts used will be from the Lotus parts bin either new or second hand with the exception of the suspension. Usual advice comments and suggestions welcome as usual. Clam off revealed the extent of the damage to the exhaust mount bracket at the end of the sub frame as well as the heat shield. This may well straighten failing that it is just tacked into place and should be able to remove it and either make a new one or get it back into shape. I also noticed that when the toe link ball joint parted the wheel must have turned and hit the upper wishbone and as such it is bent. Not to worried about the heat shield as I will be running without the grills above the diffuser and fitting the shear panel similar to the 2-11/GT3 Exige set up. This means that the shield will require trimming anyway so no biggy. IMG_0800 by Mikie711, on Flickr Think a suspension refresh may be in order if only to clean up the wishbones so added that to the list. IMG_0801 by Mikie711, on Flickr Damaged bracket removed. Had to drill out the spot welds that held it in place. Will get a replacement fabricated then weld it back in. Alan has kindly made up a 3D cad drawing of the bracket which will be cut and bent by the fab shop from the drawing. Also be shopping and pick up these for less than the price of either new Nitron streets or billy's. Off a 2-11 and in really good condition. New wishbone arrived to replace the upper left rear that is bent Waiting on new bolts, bushes, wheel bearings and ball joints for the rear suspension along with the chassis brace kit for the car. First job is to completely strip the rear suspension and get it all powder coated. Wishbone removed and in the vice Install ball joint removal tool, remembering to remove the rubber boot from the ball joint first. Once lined up just tighten the 2 bolts a couple of turns at a time keeping everything level. I use a battery impact gun and it's out in seconds but your meant to use a spanner or ratchet. Next up is removing the bushes. I have tried various methods to get these out but this tool is by far the easiest way I have found so far. Install as per the picture and tighten bolt. and ot comes the bush One stripped wishbone ready for blast and powder coat Also fitted a TRD airbox. On that subject anybody know what you do with the vacuum hose for the air flap in the standard airbox. Blank it off or leave it open? been a busy time, what with tut towers and family duties but managed to run round Scotland picking up a few bits and pieces over the last few days. New rear clam, cheers to Craig for sorting this out for me. Finlay got round to finishing off the rear suspension rebuild and bolting in the newly acquired Ohlins. All new bolts, ball joints and wheel bearings as well as having the wishbones bead blasted and a couple of coats of smoothrite paint. I have found that powder coating is fine until you get the first stone chip then over time it just peels off, hence the painting route this time. There are new disc's on the front of the car which will be used on the back once I get the new bakes for the front. Also picked up a T4E ECU, thanks to Shug for that. It's now away getting a new map uploaded to it for use with the SC once it arrives. Picked up a couple of other items lately Set of exige wheels as the brake kit won't fit behind 5 1/2" wheels. Moroso baffled oil sump, just in case. And a Hanger111 intercooler. Quite a bit larger than the standard Lotus cooler fitted to the 2-11 and the 260cup cars. Edited July 7, 2012 by Mikie711 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ramjet Posted July 7, 2012 Report Share Posted July 7, 2012 Oooo. Bits. Fun. Quote All we know is that when they stop making this, we will be properly, properly sad.Jeremy Clarkson on the Esprit. Opinions are like armpits. Everyone has them, some just stink more than others. For forum issues, please contact one of us Moderators. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bibs Posted July 7, 2012 Report Share Posted July 7, 2012 Looks like a great project. What is the tool you used to remove the bushes, usually a press is required? Quote 88 Esprit NA, 89 Esprit Turbo SE, Evora, Evora S, Evora IPS, Evora S IPS, Evora S IPS SR, Evora 400, Elise S1, Elise S1 111s, Evora GT410 Sport Evora NA For forum issues, please contact the Moderators. I will aim to respond to emails/PM's Mon-Fri 9-6 GMT. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikie711 Posted July 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2012 It's Geary's from Elise Parts. Nice bit of kit and by far the easiest way I have done them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ramjet Posted July 7, 2012 Report Share Posted July 7, 2012 Will you still need a press for putting the new ones in or does the tool come with other bits allowing you to reconfigure it for installing? Quote All we know is that when they stop making this, we will be properly, properly sad.Jeremy Clarkson on the Esprit. Opinions are like armpits. Everyone has them, some just stink more than others. For forum issues, please contact one of us Moderators. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikie711 Posted July 8, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2012 It does reconfigure for installing bushes, but it's not great. Has trouble setting the bush all the way in. Probably better using a press or big vice. Small update which i would have added to the first post to keep it all together but can't for some reason, have lost the edit button. Anyway: Couple of pictures of the new exhaust hanger bracket. Ran out of gas half way through welding it so will have that to finish off. Bracket was made from the drawings done by Alan, top job :thumbsup Front calm off now, finally. The cap head bolt that secures the clam bracket to the bottom of the window pillar rounded off as it was solid. Only way to get to it is with the clam off. So, had to cut the bracket with the intention of either making a new one or welding the two halves back together, which is probably the easier option. After cutting the bracket and removing the clam, drilled out the bolt and tried an ezi out but still wouldn't move so drilled off the head and will have to have a ferret around behind the dash. Hopefully be able to remove the nut plate and make up a new one and tiger seal it in place. Can't really see it in the last picture but it's in the center of frame right under the windscreen frame. No direct path to it with the clam on, even contemplated removing the door but because I disconnected everything with the windows down that wasn't an option in the end. It's not all bad because I will probably have to remove a large junk of the dash anyway for reasons that will become clear later on in the build, could've done without the hassle all the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ramjet Posted July 8, 2012 Report Share Posted July 8, 2012 You lose the edit option after a period of time. Not sure how long it is. Pictures above are coming up as unavailable? Quote All we know is that when they stop making this, we will be properly, properly sad.Jeremy Clarkson on the Esprit. Opinions are like armpits. Everyone has them, some just stink more than others. For forum issues, please contact one of us Moderators. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikie711 Posted August 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 27, 2012 Apologies for some of the missing pictures above, flickr decided to change the tags for some reason and I can't edit them. Not sure why this forum has an elapse time on the edit button but there you go. Anyway ....................... Untitled by Mikie711, on Flickr Welded the front clam bracket back together and bonded back on the clam. Next up was the stuck bolt and after several futile attempts at drilling it out I had to hack a hole in the pillar and dremel the plate in half to get it out. Picture doesn't do it justice, 6mm thick limp of steel held in place with expanding foam!! Made a replacement from a large repair washer and nut. Bonded it into place with tiger seal and with fill the hole with 2K fibrofill. Should end up as good as new. Funny how the little jobs turn into nightmares but onwards and upwards. Untitled by Mikie711, on Flickr Picked these up when I got back, new triple pass rad and intercooler pipes all from Pro Alloy. Thanks got to Scotty for sorting these out for me, owe you a pint :cheers Untitled by Mikie711, on Flickr Also fitted the Moroso sump, thing is a monster and holds an extra ltr of oil but should help stave off oil starvation issues. It's aslo cheaper, lighter and considerably less complicated than the Accusump system. Dash out now waiting for the new front wiring loom. Rather than try and modify the original loom just going to swap it out for a later one. On the plus side it will mean the car will have TC as well as Electronic throttle and updated T4E ECU amongst other things. Engine cover modified with extra cooling vents. All these will get mesh infills rather than the louvers the car originally had and hopefully help keep engine bay temps lower. The intention is to use an S1 boot lock mechanism to secure the new engine cover as the boot bulk head will have to be removed to make space for the intercooler. More on that later. Removed the radiator and condenser today with the intention of fitting the new triple pass rad but unfortunately once I split the rad and condenser it became apparent that the condenser had seen better days and literally fell apart. Untitled by Mikie711, on Flickr Rad and condenser out of the housing Untitled by Mikie711, on Flickr Condenser looking rather sorry for itself Untitled by Mikie711, on Flickr New rad ready to go, just need to find a condenser. For that I use a local guy and he recons that it's a standard condenser with modified pipework. Lotus replacement cost £389+vat, quoted price £90+vat = result Back to the engine cover .................. Untitled by Mikie711, on Flickr One sheet of 16mm x 5mm grill mesh, need 2 of these sheets for the whole cover. Untitled by Mikie711, on Flickr Just cut to shape and bend it round the profile, apply a bunch of tiger seal. Making sure you have the mesh all running in the same direction, a mistake learned from the 2-11. Easy to get it turned around then the mesh runs in different directions and looks odd. Untitled by Mikie711, on Flickr Untitled by Mikie711, on Flickr half way there ............... Untitled by Mikie711, on Flickr The other side bonded in and now just wait for the tiger seal to go off. Untitled by Mikie711, on Flickr Untitled by Mikie711, on Flickr Untitled by Mikie711, on Flickr All done, and looks 8) even if I do say so myself If there are 2 jobs I hate when working on an Elise, any Elise it's removing petrol tanks and pedal boxes. The tank isn't that bad it's just with not having a ramp or pit it's a PITA. The pedal box is just a total pig of a job and the S2 is just as awkward as an S1 but for different reasons. So it was just as well I had partially stripped the dash as the steering column and intermediate shaft have to come out to drop the pedal box. The real pain was the servo bolts, especially the bottom one which as yet I have no idea how I'm going to get it back in but I'll worry about that when the time comes. Also removed the gear change/ handbrake support to release the wiring loom as well as the gear cables for dropping the tank. Syphoned off 30+ ltrs from the tank before removing it, must have filled the car just before crashing it so I now have plenty of lawn mower petrol [ Untitled by Mikie711, on Flickr Interior looking even more spartan then usual. Untitled by Mikie711, on Flickr Tank out ready for it's fuel pump upgrade. Untitled by Mikie711, on Flickr Picture of the "old" pedal box with the new electronic throttle pedal. Tricky this one, the parts manual shows both the cable throttle and electronic throttle cars as having the same top plate and center shaft but clearly there isn't the space and both the plate and shaft will have to be cut. The later cars use different pedals, steel instead of aluminium extrusions but hopefully this won't be an issue mix and matching old and new. The mounting holes are present in the mounting enclosure for the pedal box, just covered up with 3 bits of tape so hopefully just be a case of cutting the existing pedal box to the correct length and re-fitting. Find out tomorrow. Big week for the build and need to get the front suspension off and stripped, blasted and painted. Few brackets and bits and bobs I want cleaned up as well. Thursday should see the arrival of the new wiring looms, oil cooler mounts and sandwich plate, intercooler mounts and fuel pump. Start of next week I should have my sticky mits on all the supercharger gubbins, electronic throttle body new clutch and flywheel. Really need to get my finger out and get caught up on this. Once the front suspension is off that should be about the end of stripping down with the exception of the gearbox removal for the clutch and LW flywheel which I will do towards the end. A whole bunch of stuff arrived this morning that I wasn't expecting till Thursday. Kinda changed my plans fo what I had intended doing. First job was to run the oil cooler hoses, which turned out to be not as bad as I thought it would be. Once that was out of the way next up was to change the fuel pump to the high flow one which arrived. Untitled by Mikie711, on Flickr Undo the 8 nuts and remove the aluminium and plastic ring noting the orientation of the pump and the location of the anti rotation tab in the aluminium ring. Then withdraw the pump remembering to tilt it for the sender float. Untitled by Mikie711, on Flickr Split the casing in half and work it free as there is an o ring seal in the feed tube. Disconnect the plug from the pump and from the sender unit. Untitled by Mikie711, on Flickr Pop off the plastic cap at the bottom of the casing, held with just a couple of tabs. Untitled by Mikie711, on Flickr pull out the old pump. Need to remove the filter which is held with a small tab washer. New pump comes with seals and spacers and just a case of swapping everthing over. Untitled by Mikie711, on Flickr New one ready to go back in. Untitled by Mikie711, on Flickr Push it back into the lower half of the casing and fit the new, metal retainer. Untitled by Mikie711, on Flickr refit the wiring plugs, making sure they are all the way home and slide the 2 halfs together watching not to trap any of the wires. Then simply stick it back in the tank and bolt both rings back into place. Ever wondered what an Elise wiring loom looks like ?................ thought not. Anyway, next up was removing the heater, can't get to the main earth bond with it in, also need to release the wiring for the air flap. Untitled by Mikie711, on Flickr Heater and fan out, pig of a job but got there in the end. Untitled by Mikie711, on Flickr Gives access to the earth bond which is under the chassis leg right of picture. Untitled by Mikie711, on Flickr New loom looks like this when it arrives. Untitled by Mikie711, on Flickr and is this big laid out. Things huge!!! and it weighs a ton. Next to the engine and gearbox it must be the next heaviest part of hte car. Untitled by Mikie711, on Flickr The front part of the old loom is free and now the rear part is pulled through into the passenger compartment. It all has to go out the front of the car so just the middle bit to do. But it has to pas through 2 bulk head penetrations which aren't as big as you would think. Fun day tomorrow then :roll: ............. My plans surrounding the pedal box went to sh!t today as well. There isn't enough space between the brake pedal and the new electronic throttle pedal. Must be the reason that Lotus changed to pressed steel pedals as they are considerably thinner the the aluminium ones. So need to get a couple of pedals as the rest of the box remains the same all be it trimmed down a bit, This has a knock on effect as the clutch master cylinder will need swapped out as the original one has a rod the screws into a trunnion in the brake pedal and the newer one has a clevis. Not a major expense but one of the unforeseen changes so far. Thankfully there haven't been to many. With the heater out of the way only the wiper motor and air circulation box was left to come out. Need these out of the way to get the plastic access cover removed to get the loom out. Easy to remove the pair of them and then free the cover by drill out the pop rivets and levering it free from the mastik bond holding it down. That didn't go so well so will add a new one to the shopping list if it doesn't repair. Untitled by Mikie711, on Flickr Easy to remove the main loom through the now enormous hole Managed to repair the access cover using Q-Bond. Amazing stuff, like super glue but with a filler and it sets up rock hard in seconds. Can't recommended enough and thanks to Craig at MMC for the tip. On that subject I want to thank Craig for his assistance throughout the whole of this project. Right from the planning stage he has been an enormous help and without him this wouldn't be possible. IMG_0961 by Mikie711, on Flickr Cover back in and new loom in place. You can see the crack in the top right corner, good as new now. Untitled by Mikie711, on Flickr Wiring in place and heater vents re-installed. Can't finish the dash off as I am waiting for the replacement pedals to arrive and until the pedal box is installed the dash has to stay out. Untitled by Mikie711, on Flickr Drilled the hole and fitted the TC on/off switch. All new maps have the TC present and the software looks for the switch, if it doesn't detect it in the first half dozen turns of the key it disables it. Having trouble getting the variable TC control knob but the ECU has been spec'd to have that also. Untitled by Mikie711, on Flickr Removed the heat exchanger and fitted the sandwich plate for the oil coolers. Fitted the hoses but ran out of hose clamps, still need a couple of Oetiker clamps to finish off. Don't trust push fits on their own!!. Untitled by Mikie711, on Flickr Fitted the air duct to the intercooler, much tighter fit than the stock IC also fits inside the IC rather than over it IYSWIM. Other than that refitted the fuel tank and shear panel and trial fitted the engine bay wiring loom to make sure none of the plugs had changed. Will need to extend the map sensor wiring for the IC but apart from that all looks OK. The biggest difference in the main loom that popped up was that the newer cars use a link cable for the headlights which mine doesn't, which I found a bit strange. So will need a couple of link cables. That's the second unexpected spend, Also still waiting to hear weather my AC guy can get me a condenser or if I will have to bite the bullet and go to Lotus, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikie711 Posted October 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2012 Been busy finishing off installing the new loom and refitting the dash. Had to wait for a new pedal box to arrive as despite what the parts manual said they are completely different. So thanks to Junks for his help with that. Also now means that the clutch slave cylinder is going to have to be changed also due to differences with the pedals. Had an order in with Lotus for a few last (hopefully) bits and bobs but some of them have gone onto back order, headlamp link cables, clutch slave cylinder and the inlet manifold gasket. That is a real PITA the last one as this little lot arrived today ................. Untitled by Mikie711, on Flickr Supercharger, inlet manifold and electronic throttle body and pedal, plus a few bits and bobs to make it all fit. Without the inlet manifold gasket however I'm stuck. Might need a trip to Toyota to see if they have one. Still plenty of prep work to do, engine mount to change, upgraded bushes to fit but won't be able to get it installed until I find a gasket, the joys!!. I decided to go ahead and test fit everything and to use an old gasket for the inlet manifold. This was so I can get a list of anything I haven't thought of and that everything fits together properly. Fitted the new top engine mount, no problems. Alternator in place all plugs seem to be correct and routed the loom as per the install manual from Lotus.. Next up inlet manifold, couldn't get the bolts to start for love nor money. Bit of head scratching and looking at the gasket versus the manifold it was obvious that the manifold bolt pattern was wrong. Bit strange as it has a Lotus part number, or what appears to be a Lotus part number cast into it's body. The part number that it carries is A128E0007 which doesn't match any parts list I have, the correct number should be A128E0012F. You can see from the picture with the gasket overlaid the holes are out by quite a bit, however the ports more or less line up. Bit strange as everything else is in the correct place. The mounts for the charger and the mounts for the intercooler if it were being installed on a Exige. Not sure what it is supposed to fit but will try and find out. Looking at it, it is not beyond the realms of possibility to modify the manifold to suit. Re-drill the holes is easy and fettle the ports a touch, if push comes to shove that is what I will probably end up doing TBH. Carried on though and test fitted the supercharger and all is good, fits like a glove. Ian got me thinking about the clearance with the engine cover so checked to see how it looked and there is plenty space between the top of the swan neck and the cover as you can see......... All good there and everything fits as it should. have e-mailed the guy I got all the parts from, but it's entirely possible he is unaware that the manifold is the wrong one. Hopefully he will have the original receipt and this can get sorted out but with most deals involving "used" parts you kinda pays your money and takes your chance. One other issue was thrown up after installing the supercharger and that is the charcoal canister can no longer locate in it's original position. The mounting plate and the canister itself carries a different part number for the SC cars but I'm not sure what the actual differences are. If anybody with an SC Exige is out and about it would be quite handy if you could pop by and I could get a look at the set up and compare it to what I have to see if I will need just the bracket or bracket and canister. Not sure it's as easy to discard it as it is on the S1's but will investigate that option also. I checked what the canister does and how it works. Basically filters the fuel vapour from the tank so will probably make an adapter bracket to re-locate the canister to where there is more room. Finally got round to the front suspension.............. Fully rebuilt with new bushes, ball joints, wheel bearings and bolts and a fresh coat of paint. Untitled by Mikie711, on Flickr back of the engine with the SC bracket, revised oil breather pipe work and SC support stay. Untitled by Mikie711, on Flickr The supercharger all dressed with inlet and out let manifolds and ETB. Just need a inlet manifold now. I acquired a soft top for the car as it never came with one, it had it's hard top fitted when I bought it. The top was very badly faded to the point it was brown rather than black. So with the help of some Renevo soft top reviver it is now back to black. Untitled by Mikie711, on Flickr Took 2 coats of reviver to get it back to get it black again. Next will be a coat of ultra proofer to water proof it and UV protect it. Very easy to use and as it's an Elise there is enough in a litre to do about 6-7 coats. If anybody has a tired looking soft top I have plenty left of both. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikie711 Posted October 17, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2012 Back home again and back in the garage. The guy that I bought all the supercharger parts off of came through and sent me a replacement inlet manifold. Thanks Alan :thumbsup Untitled by Mikie711, on Flickr first up was the inlet manifold, fitted perfectly this time Untitled by Mikie711, on Flickr Followed by the supercharger and electronic throttle body Untitled by Mikie711, on Flickr Not much space remaining but fortunately not much left to go in. Have to cut the original mounting plate for all the electrics but more on that later. Untitled by Mikie711, on Flickr Mounted the intercooler on it's brackets. Will have to wait till the rear clam is fitted to see weather or not the engine cover will clear this, might need a bit of further modification but we'll see. Untitled by Mikie711, on Flickr Also rebuilt the front end starting with the new condenser and radiator. Untitled by Mikie711, on Flickr Fans mounted and everything bolted in. Untitled by Mikie711, on Flickr Back on the car, wiring routing sorted, pipe work for AC and heater hoses all connected. New clutch master cylinder fitted and new resistor pack fitted to the heater. Would have been a shame to bolt it all back together and have that pack in and have to take it all apart again. Once I get a replacement for one of the AC pipes I'll get a guy to come over to test and recharge the system. Plenty to do before that though. More progress today mainly finishing of odd jobs ................. Untitled by Mikie711, on Flickr Relocated the charcoal filter. will have to re-hose it as the original hoses no longer reach but no biggie Untitled by Mikie711, on Flickr Fitted the twin oil coolers and made up the new, shorter, link pipe. Untitled by Mikie711, on Flickr Modified the original ECU mount, trying to work out where the fuses boxes need to go. Probably end up taking it back off and moving the ECU further over to try and get enough space. All the connectors and plugs are now in their correct places. I did have one left over, 2 pin plug with a junior timer plug on it and I spent ages hunting through wiring diagrams looking for the corresponding plug but to no avail. Then it dawned on me that it was for the one thing missing from the engine bay, the washer bottle. Funny how things like that can throw you. Busy last few days finishing off loose ends. ECU mounted properly now and all wiring runs checked. V belt fitted and charcoal canister hose up and wired in. Extended the MAP sensor wiring for the intercooler. Intercooler pipe work all fitted, looks 8) ....... Untitled by Mikie711, on Flickr Looks aren't everything though as despite numerous attempts the engine will not run. I does turn over and catch but will not run. The ECU throws up code P0340 which is for the cam position sensor but have swapped the sensor for another one and check the wiring continuity but still nothing. There is no voltage showing at the sensor but not sure there should be unless the engine is running. Any thoughts or suggestions as to the cause or solution would be massive help at this point. The resistance across the sensor is well within limits so not sure if the pins in the ECU plug aren't making contact properly or that the ECU itself is not sending the signal. The problem solving continues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jbee Posted October 17, 2012 Report Share Posted October 17, 2012 Great thread with all the photos and all Mike. The work looks great, well done, it'll be better than new when you finished Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikie711 Posted October 17, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2012 All the photo's were fine when I uploaded this a couple of hours ago so no idea why the won't show now, They are all still showing on SE. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikie711 Posted October 17, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2012 Quick recap to get the missing pictures back up More progress today mainly finishing of odd jobs ................. Untitled by Mikie711, on Flickr Relocated the charcoal filter. will have to re-hose it as the original hoses no longer reach but no biggie Untitled by Mikie711, on Flickr Fitted the twin oil coolers and made up the new, shorter, link pipe. Untitled by Mikie711, on Flickr Modified the original ECU mount, trying to work out where the fuses boxes need to go. Probably end up taking it back off and moving the ECU further over to try and get enough space. All the connectors and plugs are now in their correct places. I did have one left over, 2 pin plug with a junior timer plug on it and I spent ages hunting through wiring diagrams looking for the corresponding plug but to no avail. Then it dawned on me that it was for the one thing missing from the engine bay, the washer bottle. Funny how things like that can throw you. Busy last few days finishing off loose ends. ECU mounted properly now and all wiring runs checked. V belt fitted and charcoal canister hose up and wired in. Extended the MAP sensor wiring for the intercooler. Intercooler pipe work all fitted, looks 8) ....... Untitled by Mikie711, on Flickr Looks aren't everything though as despite numerous attempts the engine will not run. I does turn over and catch but will not run. The ECU throws up code P0340 which is for the cam position sensor but have swapped the sensor for another one and check the wiring continuity but still nothing. There is no voltage showing at the sensor but not sure there should be unless the engine is running. Any thoughts or suggestions as to the cause or solution would be massive help at this point. The resistance across the sensor is well within limits so not sure if the pins in the ECU plug aren't making contact properly or that the ECU itself is not sending the signal. The problem solving continues. While continuing to troubleshoot the engine problem I decided to go ahead and modify the rear clam. So made up some templates from cardboard and worked out the minimum amount to cut out. Untitled by Mikie711, on Flickr Rev 1, after trial fitting a couple of times a bit more was removed here and there till it finally fitted the way I wanted. Untitled by Mikie711, on Flickr Now there is loads of clearance around the extra pipework etc except where the intercooler pipe dips under the clam on the front left of the engine opening. There the intercooler pipe clears the calm by about 1/2" which is tighter than I would like. If it becomes an issue then I have the option of cutting out the gutter rail around the pipe but will see how much the engine moves around with the stiffer mounts fitted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bibs Posted October 18, 2012 Report Share Posted October 18, 2012 Great work, thanks for the update! After all that, being foiled by 1 sensor must be a pita! Good luck fault finding it! Quote 88 Esprit NA, 89 Esprit Turbo SE, Evora, Evora S, Evora IPS, Evora S IPS, Evora S IPS SR, Evora 400, Elise S1, Elise S1 111s, Evora GT410 Sport Evora NA For forum issues, please contact the Moderators. I will aim to respond to emails/PM's Mon-Fri 9-6 GMT. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikie711 Posted October 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2012 Really not sure what is going on with the sensor. Changed it out for a different one and still no difference. Wiring all checks out OK so by default it looks like it's the ECU but it's brand new. Not sure if the sensor fault is a red herring but will eventually get to the bottom of it, some other random stuff to try and some other checks to make but now really suspect the ECU is either faulty or it's a configuration problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikie711 Posted October 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2012 (edited) New battery arrived ............. Untitled by Mikie711, on Flickr Considerably smaller and lighter than the one it's replacing. next up is a bit of heat shielding Untitled by Mikie711, on Flickr Boot floor first. Rather than buy the Lotus hard heat shield for here I thought I would try out this thermo-tec heat barrier. Great claims about how it blocks the heat rather than absorbs the heat like Nimbus. Guess well find out if it works. Very easy to work with though I am skeptical about the strength of the glue. Untitled by Mikie711, on Flickr Next up was the underside of the intercooler. Haven't done the top of it as you really want the heat to dissipate and thought the heat barrier would insulate it trapping the heat in it. Anyway shame you won't see it as it is quite bling looking. Used this stuff from the same place. If you ever use it be careful, the cut edges are bloody sharp as I found out After fitting the clam I discovered that the engine cover wouldn't fit. It clashed with the intercooler so I have had to remove the second cross brace and a chunk of side from the cover. Waiting on new mesh to arrive and I have gone to a smaller mesh size to try and give it back some strength. 12mm x 5mm holes rather than 16mm x 5mm used previously. I have still manged to install the boot lock mechanism though. Untitled by Mikie711, on Flickr The lock and housing are from an S1 and the actuator is the Elise Parts electronic boot opener. Will change the way it is wired though and wire the switch into the cabin, probably on the back panel, so it can be permanently live rather than switched. Edited October 21, 2012 by Mikie711 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bibs Posted October 22, 2012 Report Share Posted October 22, 2012 I keep getting flickr errors on some of the pics Mike - As much as a pain, it might be easier to upload them into a gallery on here, you can then insert them into the post with the 'my media' button at the top of the reply box Quote 88 Esprit NA, 89 Esprit Turbo SE, Evora, Evora S, Evora IPS, Evora S IPS, Evora S IPS SR, Evora 400, Elise S1, Elise S1 111s, Evora GT410 Sport Evora NA For forum issues, please contact the Moderators. I will aim to respond to emails/PM's Mon-Fri 9-6 GMT. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikie711 Posted March 31, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2013 (edited) Been busy doing some work in the house this time home but managed to get into the garage for a couple of hours today. So I rebuilt the interior, fitted the harness bar from an Exige which is a bugger of a job but done now. Also fitted the new seats which are 8) .Untitled by Mikie711, on FlickrUntitled by Mikie711, on Flickr Disc's arrived today from Stu. Top quality work and much cheapness :thumbsup . top job fella and in future I will use Stu for all my brake requirements IMG_0059 by Mikie711, on Flickr Boxes mean shinny new stuff IMG_0060 by Mikie711, on Flickr New ones are 295mm, old are 288mmIMG_0064 by Mikie711, on Flickr And fitted with new RS14 pads and SS brake hoses. So today my new Nitron shocks arrived, and lovely they are too Untitled by Mikie711, on Flickr New adjustable Lotus Sport anti roll bar fittedUntitled by Mikie711, on Flickr Also finally cracked the engine cover latch. Spent quite a bit of time re-aligning both the catch and the latch and now have a working electric boot latch.Untitled by Mikie711, on Flickr Nothing remarkable about the latch really other than it's an S1 boot latch in an S2 Just need to re-mesh the engine cover and that's another job off the list.Untitled by Mikie711, on Flickr Nitrons now fitted. Still got a problem with the front drivers side as I can't get 2 of the bolts for the ABS unit off but will work it out tomorrow. Once this is done will re=fit the front clam and wheel arch liners. That will be the front finished. So, after almost a year, countless hours and £1000's of pounds today was the day to pick up the 111r. Geo'd, MOT'd and the last few niggley little jobs all done and dusted. Really wasn't the weather for your first drive in something like this but needs must so off the MMC to pick it up I went. Drive down wasn't bad but there were parts of the A90 that would require a fair degree of caution on the way back up. Managed to get home in one piece without drama and haven't stopped smiling yet. It is everything I hoped it would be performance wise despite not having had it at full throttle yet due to the very cold, wet and greasy roads. Can't wait for Saturday to find out how it handles on track :twisted:Untitled by Mikie711, on FlickrUntitled by Mikie711, on FlickrUntitled by Mikie711, on FlickrUntitled by Mikie711, on Flickr As a foot note, after driving through rush hour (ish) traffic and blasting out the road I check the boot floor temp and intercooler temp and both were cold to the touch. Will see if that holds true on track but I suspect that the heat shield and intercooler are going to be fine. Thanks to: To Scotty C for taking the car down and helping source some of the parts for the car :thumbsup . A few beers in order there I think, cheers pal, Saturday will be fun . To Alan G for the ubber bracket and helping troubleshoot my electrical gremlins, cheers fella we got there in the end. To all on here who chipped in with advice and help throughout the build, thank you. It's what makes SE special. To Craig and the guys at MMC, Craig especially for the very start has been a constant source of help and support without whom none of what has been detailed here would have been possible. Right from the very beginning when it was just an idea he has been there with ideas and advice. Really is above and beyond the call and I doubt you would get that level of help from any other dealer. The guys in the shop did a fantastic job taking care of the last few bits and bobs and doing the spanner check. So massive thanks to Craig and the guys. Open invite for Saturday for any who want to see how it goes when really let loose. :cheers :cheers :thumbsup. Little bit of video from Knockhill when the car had it's first outing http://youtu.be/TtcKhmVwfa4 Edited March 31, 2013 by Mikie711 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.