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robington

Engine Out - HGF

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130 psi minimum, assuming yours is a non-HC 910 engine. Make sure you have the throttle wide open when you measure, as well as being fully warmed up.

Edit: Whoops, I didn't see the second page of replies. Redundant, this!

Edited by sanj

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Upgrade today to remove Google ads and support TLF.

Well after all this time I have started to dis-assemble bits to take the engine out. I have never done this before on an Esprit, so any tips would be welcome. So far I have just done easy stuff from the top. Disconnected the alterntor, starter solenoid, fuel intake, airbox and coned flexi hose out, some cooling hoses and took the battery out. Tomorrow I will take the bootlid off.

I don't have anything to jack the car up, but will sort that out soon - I quite like the look of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hydraulic-Car-Ramps-Hydraulic-Car-Lifts-Adjustable-Car-Ramps-Brand-New-/150963352286?pt=UK_Lifting_Moving_Equipment&hash=item23261df2de , the main reason is that I don't like working under a car on axle stands, unless I have to. I will also get a crawler, an engine stand and a block and tackle to lift the engine. My garage has brick walls, so I should be able to run something substantial across that will be able to take the weight.

Is there a general order to do things?

When disconnecting the clutch slave - do you take it right off, or just disconnect the hose?

When disconnecting the oil pressure gauge pipe - do you just undo it? Silly question, I know, but I was wondering whether there was a protocol to follow and whether the gauge could be compromised in some way.

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Robin

I remove the two M8 bolts from the clutch slave holding it to the bell housing and let it hang down. Don't lose the rod.

The oil pressure line just disconnects its an unusual size not quite 13mm and too slack at 14mm

Yes if you can get an endless chain hoist suspended from an RSJ or gantry you can then lift over the centre of engine. I use a large webbing strap. Another strap around the gearbox and supported by a conventional engine crane.

Leave discs on (unless you are changing them anyway) just disconnect the 6 x allen headed bolts holding the driveshafts to the discs.

Slide the oil cooler take off off rather than undo the unions holding the pipes on. There is a bolt that bolts into the block that stops it . I replaced with a pan head bolt so it slides off (for next time)

I'll email you some pics of the engine coming out

Take it slow and be methodical and you'll be fine. Label everything and take photos as you go them if there is a delay before putting it back in you won't need a good memory

John

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Gauge should be fine.

Clutch slave, just undo from bellhousing and secure out of the way (unless you don't mind having fluid drip everywhere and don't mind bleeding it when it goes back in.

 

There will probably be very little you'll need to be under the car for but those ramps should make it easier for some jobs (such as accessing the engine mount arms.

 

Generally to remove the engine (BTW you don't strictly have to remove the engine to do a head gasket) it's remove all fluid lines, electrical connections etc and separate the drive shafts from the gearbox (assuming you're taking the engine & gearbox out as one).

 

 

edit

Just seen John's post so agreeing there.

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Couple of thoughts

The M12 nuts on the engine mounts fouled on sues chassis so ended up jacking the engine up slightly to get them out as undoing progressed

Remove the exhaust completely including the bracket

Don't forget the speedo cable, just undo the knurled nut

If you have gas in the air con remove the compressor if not just undo the pipes

The black service manual has s good step by step guide

John

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Thank you all. Loads of great tips there.

Andy, I also have some weeping from the water pump to engine mating and I thought I would just do a general engine bay tidy up, hence the engine removal. Somebody also advised me to remove the fuel tanks while I was there, but have not decided on that one yet...

Something I meant to ask before - do you take out the boot first? - I have found it pretty handy to stand in there and was wondering if it is an item that is best to come out once you have used it to stand in and reach all the stuff on the top.

Thanks again.

Rob

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Yes, the boot panel has to come out, and the brace across the chassis then revealed...two bolts each side. Undoing the drive shafts needs rotating them for access to the socket headed screws, so ramps don't work as well as axle stands. I use stands and the workshop crane together, lifting the rear of the car by slings around the back of the chassis, then stablising it with the stands. I feel much safer underneath that way! The rear of the gearbox also has a long stud which is best removed when lifting the lump, or it can catch on the GRP of the remaining boot floor. The engine has to be lifted really high at the front, then vertically until the rear of the gearbox gets above the GRP....then keep lifting and lower the front to help get the thing over the rear spoiler. Old blankets are useful as protection....and also for kneeling purposes!

Just keep plodding steadily onward...thinking all the time...photos and notes will be invaluable. If you are going to change the fuel tanks, now's the time as they will be fully accessible with the lump out! 


Scientists investigate that which already is; Engineers create that which has never been." - Albert Einstein

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Ok, so I went to remove the rear hatch today. It looks like it needs 4 people to do it without running the risk of damaging the edge of it. Undoing the bolts without supporting it would just let it drop or slip. I am on my own, with occasional help from my 15 year old Daughter. Do I need to round up more people or is there a method of doing it with one or 2 people?

Something that’s baffling me is that I can not see any wires between the hatch and the car that would supply the feed to the heated rear screen?

I am in no hurry, so thought it best to stop and work out the next move rather than damage something.

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Heated screen has two wires with connectors on the LH side of the hatch, iirc. I have taken the hatch off several times on my own..!! Need loads of old blankets folded thickly to protect the roof, sides and rear spoiler. Lift the thing up and  support it with a suitable prop, from under the lid to inside the boot. These days I use ropes across the underside of the lid, strung from one side to the other to suitable supports (the house plumbing in my case!) Tighten these up so as to get minimal sag when you undo the lid. First you remove the gas struts....the lid will be supported by the prop and ropes. Then undo the 2x 13mm AF bolts each side on the hinges....drop each hinge in turn  and replace the bolts into the lid. As you go, the lid will sag onto the ropes and finally be supported by them. Then wheel the car forward so that the lid is clear of the vehicle...and you can stand behind it, lift it off the lower rope at the back and allow it to come gently down and rest on a suitable cushion you have placed on the floor for the purpose!. After that, you can tuck it under your arm, grab hold of it at the hole which goes over the engine, lift it up and walk off with it, placing it out of the way standing on yet another folded blanket or similar.

 

It is significantly easier if you can rustle up another strongish chap to help...then you can lift it straight off, one each side, having undone the respective hinges. I have seen the job done with the lid still hinged but standing vertically up and held by ropes.

 

DO NOT DROP IT!!!   


Scientists investigate that which already is; Engineers create that which has never been." - Albert Einstein

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""

Something that’s baffling me is that I can not see any wires between the hatch and the car that would supply the feed to the heated rear screen?

""

Yup had me scratching my head until I realised that you can use the hinges to pass current as they are bolted to the body and being plastic the body is not an earth

In terms of removal I have only used 2 people.

Method :

Remove the R clips from the hatch end let them fall

whilst your helper holds the hatch undo the 2 M8 bolts each side ( the nuts are captive )

You can put a blanket under the front edge to avoid a 'dink' if you are worried but I've not found it necessary

Person holding up the hatch then shuffles round to the side (opposite to the one you have just undone ) then just lift together, making sure you clear the rear spoiler as the screen extends down quite a way

As the hatch is heavy might be best to get your daughter to do the bolts whilst you steady it?

John

Edited by Mr_John111

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Thank's Gents. I didn't want to put my Daughter under any pressure, so out came the straps. Worked a treat. Boot lid now safely up against the wall, covered and out of the way.

 

 DSCF0588_640x480.jpg

Edited by robington

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A little more progress - I got the carbs and the boot floor out this evening. I now appreciate all the previous post's from other people about how tight it is to lift out!!!!

 

I will try to disconnect the exhaust next.

I was going to get an engine stand for when it was out - just to make it easier to work on the engine. Any recomendations?

 

Thanks in advance.

 

Robin.

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post-568-0-12245700-1357303856.jpgEngine stand...buy a two legged one. Some of them use two castors at the end where the engine bolts on, and then have a single leg coming from the centre as the other support. Not very stable, prone to tipping across the triangle thus formed.Better off with  one with two lower supports, much more stable. You'll have to fiddle about with lengths of threaded rod and nuts and washers until you have the block properly mounted to the stand through the holes where the bell housing bolts on to the block. Once you have the engine on a decent engine stand, it's all much easier as you can rotate the thing for access-all-areas as it were! I have one of these, and it's been brilliant; you can easily take it apart to stow it in a corner when not using it.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SEALEY-ES550-Engine-Stand-550kg-BRAND-NEW-/251018517977?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3a71de9dd9



Exhaust removal

 

The exhaust comes off from the waste gate and turbo. 4 studs and nuts hold it to the turbo and 2 at the waste gate. You may have fun here....(!) as it's possible that the studs will fracture, leaving you with some engineering to do to put it right. I drilled out and retapped the threads as required. The lump will come out with the turbo still attached and the brake discs still fitted, it's a bit tight but a spot if strategic wiggling will do it!! Once you have the exhaust undone from the waste gate and turbo, you need to split the system at the joints where it fits to the silencer box and remove the pipes, followed by undoing the silencer from the back of the gear box. It's held to the mounting plate by 4 huge Jubilee type hose clips... then the mounting plate comes off the back of the box too. This tends to be a rusty bit of lacework, so you may well need a spot of metalwork and weld to rectify it!  When refitting, the pipes go on first to the wastegate and turbo...one goes on before the other, but I can't remember which (!) and they won't fit in the other order (!!) Then it's a matter of benchpressing the silencer and getting it into positon before sliding the huge stainless hoseclips over the mounting bracket. Lining it all up again with the pipes and the hole where it comes through the body is another fiddle, but plenty of time until you get to that point...(!)

Edited by molemot

Scientists investigate that which already is; Engineers create that which has never been." - Albert Einstein

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Agree with John a two-legged stand is the way to go. You'll notice that on the stand, it becomes especially unstable when the 'head is re-fitted, due to the 900's cant to the left (or tight, if viewing from the front).

Also be careful when aligning the bolts from the stands back-plate into the gearbox threads at the back of the block. I managed to strip several of mine doing this! Mind you, HeliCoil repairs were easy enough...............

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Have to agree re choice of stand

I have central legged one and it feels unstable. Especially if trying to move around the workshop

I found some large M10 bolts and a lot of washers to pack them out we're fine to mount to engine.

Mount the plate to the engine first, then winch into place and put the plate on the stand.

As others have said, a real boon.

John

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Hi

The turbo on my car has the tips of some of the blades missing. Is this something I should worry about and how much should I worry!

The engine is getting stripped and checked anyway, but should I get the turbo off to be refurbished?

 

DSCF0692_640x480_zps13753230.jpg

 

DSCF0690_640x480_zpse6ea5540.jpg

 

Thanks in advance...

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Where is the best place to get this done? I am looking at Turbo Technics in Northampton - any other/better suggestions?

 

Thanks,

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Any reputable turbo shop can do this (TT will be OK), I've had a quote in the past of about £350 for refurbishing mine by a local firm but it didn't need a replacement compressor wheel. Avoid the DIY kits as you cannot balance the turbo yourself.

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Although I have rebuilt turbos myself using the standard manufacturer's rebuild parts kits,this one is going to need a new compressor at least so the balance of the unit wil be affected. If you were just fitting the parts in the rebuild kit then you can do this without disturbing the turbo balance..just be very careful to mark the relative positions of the turbine and the compressor and that takes care of balancing. Bits off the tips of the compressor and the wear on the ends of the blades indicates to me that the bearings are well shot...it seems that the blades have been rubbing on the inside of the housing. This one needs professional care!! All the missing parts have only gone one way.....into the engine and out through the exhaust....so you may have damage further down the line. More encouragingly, when mine did this (and it was worse than that) the rest of the motor was fine. I did grind the valves as a matter of course, but there were no witness marks on valves, seats, pistons or head.

Edited by molemot

Scientists investigate that which already is; Engineers create that which has never been." - Albert Einstein

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Thank's for the replies.

I have had a closer look at it and I can't see any scoring, but there is a little bit of play in the bearings. Whether this is normal play or a bad sign - I do not know. So, the combination of not really knowing anything much about turbo's and the fact that this one is in need of work, I will take John's advice and get it done professionaly. 

This started out as a head gasket job!!

I am curious as to how a foreign object would get in there to damage the blades, what with a blooming great air filter in the way to stop these things happening, but then again, perhaps someting else was the cause...

Edited by robington

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When mine went pear shaped, the bearings were definitely done for and the blades were hitting the housing. If you want info on turbos and good advice from friendly people, try these guys...

http://gpopshop.com/

They provided the rebuild kot for my Garrett turbo...hard to find such things this side of the pond, in fact I found it impossible! The site's worth a look just for the information. Pity they are so far away!


Scientists investigate that which already is; Engineers create that which has never been." - Albert Einstein

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Yay I finally got the engine out today it only took 3 months!!!

I thought I would degrease and pressure wash the engine and chassis tubes and general stuff in the engine bay. Is it ok to do this or better left alone. I was most concerned about the drive shafts really and thought I would seek advice here.

Thanks in advance.

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