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recomissioning 2.2l engine

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i am trying to restart 2.2l engine last run circa 1994, i have checked it turns over( not siezed),spark at plug, fuel present,no joy,would it be worth blocking off vacuum to servo and heater system and putting oil down spark plugs to increase compression,any other hints to get a 1980 s2 lotus elite on road again welcome

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try easystart, I use it as a diagnostic tool, Is the fuel fresh? if the engine starts with rasystart it is a fueling issue, have you changed the cam belt? I would recommend this prior to trying to start it.

Regards Dan

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at last it starts for first time since 1994,maybe as it was last time it was road taxed,i went back to basics put all the timing marks to no 1 atdc,checked position of rotor arm it was pointing down instead of up then went anticlockwise in firing order,opened up idle jets and cranked not happy spitting out carbs then my friend moved dist timing until hey presto it went timing still well out but can now adjust it with timing light at least is was running on all 4 cylinders and good oil pressure,it has given me incentive weather permitting to finish the long list of jobs,ps fuel pump was acting up and i am ging to try moprod one i had spare from previous s1 elite also mental note make sure timing dot on oil pump/dizy is in right place then workshop manual dizy tdc is as shown

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yes it is but then as i fix fuel pump and sort leaking fuel tank start engine adjust timing **** oil cooler springs leak have bypassed it is it really needed one step forward almost at least weather behaved its self for today

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no, its not really needed. Lots of elites and eclats didn't have them.

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update about progress,car now moves back and forward under it own power since ? last taxed 94/95 ,rear brakes and handbrake problems usual electrics gremlims with electric wing mirrors traced to bad connections on right /left switch, windows slowly or not moving at all caused by hardened glass seals cured by nylon/rubber spray luby when finally got windows fully down helped by releasing runners after spending lots of time taking door card and inspection hatches off,question about rear wheel cylinders do they slide back and forward on back plate as they could be seized after years of non use after years of owning lotus elites i should almost know what i am doing as wiring diagram needs sherlock homes to crack it as it does not tell you about all the inline connectors,sorry about spelling always been crap at that

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We're not interested in your spelling, :no we want to know how the car's coming on :yes: and it sounds like you are making good progress. Any pictures? taking%20a%20photo.gif

Edited by USAndretti42

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theres a couple of picys in garage section of forum posted november 26 2011,i will try and add to that this week

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John,

Sounds like your having fun. The rear brake cylinders should move back and forward on the back plate, I gave mine a good soak in WD 40 and left them for a week, I have about 1/8th inch movement back and forward.

Regards

John

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car is now inside and over a pit  makes access so easy,just as well as handbrake cable seized as one of the wheel cylinders,is ,so it was off with backplates after removing inboard shafts done by cutting through brake pipes flexable hose and handbrake cable all being replaced anyway and are being cleaned repainted and greased were cylinder slides back and forward,diff filler plug seized solid so off with diff plate witch will also get cleaning and painted ,going by state of old oil just as well it was changed,dont want to do this job again as it has happened to two previous s1 and now the s2 i have owned,at least car is inside and hopefully can be driven for mot test at end of work in progress also indebted to help of tim who has added lotuses to his vast knowledge of morris minors

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the back brakes now work as does the handbrake thanks to lotus bits for supplying new wheel cylinders and secondhand handbrake cable luckily i already had diff plate gasket as filler/level plug was seized and only way to get it out was to remove back plate and use heat  was just as well as oil was in shocking state and let us clean/flush inside,the to do list gets slightly shorter

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bottom steering uj changed,it says in book slacken top uj and it comes out,not when rusted solid,so of came steering column support inside car 3 bolts and floating nuts an absolute ******* and two bulkhead bolts,this gave enough movement to get top uj off,5 hours later job done and whole linkage cleaned up and greased now you can do it as book says

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John,

 

I agree,they streering UJ's are a pain, I soaked my steering column in WD40 for a couple of weeks and then tapped the UJ's up and down the shaft till they freed up, Will grease mine up when I put the body on, but hope I'll never have to do it again. Have you got any photo's on the forum, had a look, but cant find them.

 

Regards

John

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being a luddite i have trouble doing it there are some photos in garage section .i will try and get someone to load them

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I did the steering UJ's today myself. I forgot to do them when the body was off. Not so bad if the steering is on the right, but mine is on the left and you cannot get to the UJ pinch bolts.

I pulled the steering column as well. Luckily mine wasn't rusty.

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THE JOB GOES ON NEW THROTTLE CABLE COMES OUT ,PLATE AT BACK OF BULKHEAD SLIPS DOWN ,SERVO GETS IN WAY OF CATCHING THREAD ,ANOTHER 5 HOUR JOB ,CABLE MUST OF PUT IN BEFORE SERVO WAS AND I HATE TO THING HOW LONG IT WOULD TAKE TO GET SERVO OUT ??,BOTH REAR WHEEL BEARINGS GETTING REPLACED ALONG WITH SPRINGS AND SHOCKS,BAD WEATHER IS NOW PROBLEM AS GUY WANTED HIS INSIDE SPACE WITH PIT TO GET ON WITH HIS REAL WORK ON MORRIS MINORS AND WHO COULD BLAME HIM ALTHOUGH HE IS KEEN AS ME TO SEE PROJECT DONE

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rear end work finished apart from setting ride hight,on to front now steering bellows,trunnion bushes,front brake flexables,all arb bushes,sort out some electrical issues then bleed all brakes again ,2 new front tyres,then mot only 8 months behind 

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Hi John

 

Im glad the Engine was as good as we thought

 

Sounds like your doing a great job of getting the old girl up and running

 

Keep up the good work

 

And keeps us posted

 

Best Wishes

 

Matt

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thanks matt it has been a long journey but at least i know whats been done ,do you know what the correct fuel pressure should be ,also floats are 7.5 gram ones no setting for these i set them up for 13mm 

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oh joy fuel tank started to leak again about 8 months after repairing it so out it came again,checking light s and main/dip not working then stem broke due to sticky indicator switch part so no mot test this month

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I set my fuel pressure to 2.5-3 psi thats about right for our cars, I would set the floats to 14 -15mm from top cover gasket,  the fuel level in our carbs is critical !

 

Sorry to hear about the tank leak, I think on fuel tanks its oftern easyer to make a new tank, but then I do love wielding !

 

Thanks for keeping us updated John, its great to know someone is taking the time and money making a great car into a great car once again, well done.

 

Matt

 

PS We want Pictures !

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car made it in for mot about a year over schedule,failed on handbrake,servo not working leak in heater system ,front windsreen wiper(someone had fitted 120 instead of 170 degree sweep?),front steering lose pass side,bolt loose holding caliper bracket ,easy fix,rear fog tell tale light on switch fixed,battery holding bracket broken will have to bond in  rod to fix,left hand brake up to garage to fix then in for retest,needs carbs looked at  not running very well , checked timing its ok ,got to get finished due to having an elan project as well ,must be mad?

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handbrake problem was wrongly routed cable which meant it kept jumping out of guide when putting it on ,always simple ,windscreen wiper motor was wrong one lucas w14 instead of w16,the owner in circa 1990s did this only reason i can think is it fitted but only 120degree sweep instead of 160or170,in for mot again today got fingers and everything else crossed

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