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Does anyone know where we can access a workshop manual description on how the vacuum system works in relation to the heater in a 2001 V8? My heater doesn't work very well and I wanted to understand how to take it apart and what all the complex electrics, solenoids and vacuum bits actually all do!

Cheers B

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do you have the normal 'workshop-pdf' with the parts section ?

As there is a lot in the shematics, the main-valve that is there to override the heater, the electric valve that controls amount of water supply into the heater, and all of the vaccum-valves for the flap controls

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to name the things if I see them, that's what I call integrity..

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I have written a summary about the principles & function over here in the V8 section, in an other post.

But to make it as short as possible -that's how I see it:

with the '98on cockpit you will have vaccum actuated flaps, instead of cable driven ones -to control the air that goes to the vents.

As such you need one vacuum-actuator for the flap that blocks the main inlet-port (in the front trunk, in case of smog/tunnel rides), one vacuum-actuator that controls the diverter-flap for screen/face vents and lower ventilation tubes under the dash and one vacuum-actuator that controls the 'heater-override' in the front of the chassis frame -it is bolted to the top of the *T*, right there where the water pipes for the heater exit the centre tunnel end (as for the 'water recirculation' if the car is parked hot after an spirited ride in summer, and the small electric water-pump under the LH side of the enginebay needs to pump the water around in the opposite flow direction to the normal water pump of the engine)

For those actuators you have vacuum-solenoid valves (small magnetic valves, to 'switch' the vacuum on for those actuators, or block it)

The temp. control is also not cable driven, as it was prior with the traditional water-flow controls in old cars -it is here an switch that is more of an gradually function, instead of simple *on/off*, so you need an seperate actuator/stepper valve that controls the amount of hot water that actually flows into the heater.

The full layout and partsinformation, see PN -problem is, your inbox is full (that's the note I see) ??

Edited by Günter

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to name the things if I see them, that's what I call integrity..

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Bob -the community, and as such I would like to help every owner ..but you have at least to clear/open your *inbox* ..to get the :secret: informations on workshop-books

:huh:

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to name the things if I see them, that's what I call integrity..

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  • 4 months later...

Gunter sorry for protracted delay in thanking you for this. Have not found any more detail than you have provided, will be returning to this confusing problem ( no heat) as soon as engine back running again.

I mean got to assume Europe will have another crap summer!

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so means you still need to read this there, page 388/400ff on is the V8 and all sections:

 

..first try should allways be -test that the small water pipe that comes from the rear end on every cylinder-head, and feets to the front end gets hot (or warm)  ..and that the pipes that connect to diverter-valve in the front of the T-chassis section (look under the car, there where the steering rack is too, and all those pipes) ...that this valve sees the head from the pipe that comes from the back and this hot water needs to be routed to the heater matrix inside of the car.  

 

..on a 'cool down' period after a spirited run, as there is no vacuum actuating this diverter valve, and the heater matrix in the cabin is shorted, the water instead flows now into the main radiator and back to the engine

 

..the 'heater matrix return' under normal running condition is the smaller pipe that feeds into the LH main water hose (the aluminium one) on the engine-front

Edited by oneshot
Link to copyright material removed

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to name the things if I see them, that's what I call integrity..

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Great thanks. I am guessing the most likely culprits for anyone
in this situation are a blocked heater matrix, and the diverter valve jamming
so that the vacuum when applied is doing nothing and allowing the hot water to
return to the engine via the radiator return pipe.

 

When sorted I am going to drain the system and purge it/fill with the Evans 180
product and this will stop any further risk of anything getting blocked.

 

And the aircon (which doesn’t work either) is totally separate
to the heater system  and must therefore be
caused by another problem- likely needing a refill like redshift.


Cheers

 

Bob



 

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not sure that oneshot had given you enough time to see the manual -link

 

...anyway, it is noted in there that if the diverter-valve is fitted in the old (wrong) way it can happen too ...the higher flow from the engine whilst it runs forces the valve to shut-off the heater. So simly connect the hoses there with direct connectors and add temporarely a reflow limitation insert into the hose to test for max. performance

*********************************************************************

to name the things if I see them, that's what I call integrity..

*********************************************************************

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