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project #099 -- Destination silly fast


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I know that you would love it ;)

 

it is allways good to be the boss in the company you choose for such projects -he must have so much fun with this idea

Edited by Günter

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to name the things if I see them, that's what I call integrity..

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Gunter.. I will be involved with the engineering process of the stroker idea, however, in terms of how we complete the process... I will be drawing on the experience of my engine builder. I have te utmost faith in his abilities. We will see what we learn as time goes by. As for the solid liner concept.. I like that one a lot. However, I would be moderately concerned with the expansion characteristics of he solid 1 piece liner vs. the aluminum block..

Modifying esprit's.. now that's fun..

PS... I AM NOT A CERTIFIED MECHANIC.. I Have chosen to help those in need, in the past and must not be construed as being a certified technician.

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out of curiousity, have you ever looked into one of the modern Ferrari blocks ?  

..not sure if it was an F355 or F360 on the engine stand, but the one I have seen over here in Berlin (specialised Ferrari garage, as part of a lesso, or lets say 'on a visit')  ..this one was fitted with 'separated liners' too -but those had slightly contact witch each side by side, doe to a flat shape on the top edge, and as the liners were already pretty close to each other   

-so non of them could turn around within the block, nor could one expand to much on the hot top end without contacting the others ..and this would make it a pretty solid conception from my point of view ..especially if you mention the problems of those 4pot Esprit owners and with gaskets giving up under stress.

 

The whole design was not exactly like an 'closed deck' concept, as there was space between the outsides and the wall of the block, but it fitted those liners in place well I would say ..and it seems to be the factory design for this engine.

 

*the mentioned 'do the geometry' thing was not meant in terms of power gains, or that I want to attac you on this plan -or that you are on a wrong way ..it is just pure engine-physics we can not ignore and hardly overcome, as it lays within the principle of a reciprocatiing engine  ..but it influences the running characteristics of the engine ..that's how I see it based on the lessons there in the university, so your engine builder will know them as well and can tell you how it is meant   -my poor english ..you now  ;)

 

please, put the German engineering-word *Pleuelstangenverhältnis* into google-translator, I'm sure it gives you some informations on what I tried to say about the effects

Edited by Günter

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to name the things if I see them, that's what I call integrity..

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  • 8 months later...

Well... I know you all are hoping for a good update.. but at the moment.. there isn't much to say. I am going to use the factory crankshaft (as the cost was way too prohibitive to make a stroker kit). I have, however, gotten custom JE Billet (not forged) pistons and Carillo rods. I also went .012" over on the bore (due to the bore and taper being out of round and true) which will increase displacement from 3.506 litres to 3.531 litres. So, the project will likely start back up this winter, once the engine is finished at the machine shop. Now.. I expect to keep my torque under 500 ft-lbs and just tune up the horsepower a bit at the top end. I don't expect to exceed 630hp with this build as I just don't think it's going to be necessary. The car was already crazy with 430whp and 430whtq.

Modifying esprit's.. now that's fun..

PS... I AM NOT A CERTIFIED MECHANIC.. I Have chosen to help those in need, in the past and must not be construed as being a certified technician.

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  • 1 month later...

Well.. I'm still waiting for the block to be finished.. I think I would have designed and cast a new one faster... Lol.. Anyhow, I have also begun a bit of head work.. I stripped them down today and ported the intake runners. Maybe I will get my block back before Christmas?? Lol

Modifying esprit's.. now that's fun..

PS... I AM NOT A CERTIFIED MECHANIC.. I Have chosen to help those in need, in the past and must not be construed as being a certified technician.

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  • 1 month later...

Well.. Christmas has come and gone.. However, I didn't remain totally stagnant. Here's a few things I did in the last while..

I did some mild port work to the intake runners and intake ports.. here's a pic.

2F91F4F8-8419-44E9-A601-F3C7EEEC252B_zps
 
 
I also installed the entire water section of the intercooler plumbing:
5B6FA7CA-0443-4060-9E00-F6735037656C_zps
121DA12A-6352-4DC2-BAF7-6A2A80BE7659_zps



Also, I cleaned some exhaust pipes.. before and after :)
3BAB882F-34FA-4063-A3DF-1E6485B66761_zps
51314D87-0017-450D-88D2-2B2208CCD2EA_zps

I also decided to do a clean installation of my wide-band control modules. It's kind of hard to see what's going on in this picture, but this is behind the right hand seat.. I have cut-away the insulation in order to fit the two wideband controllers to a nearly flush mounted appearance. Here's the first shot, showing what is behind the carpet:
DE251128-F795-4985-9F8E-C807080146BA_zps

and this mildly blurry picture is the carpet pulled back over everything.
7BDCCF78-F443-41DC-82F9-D9B31055B0DE_zps

Modifying esprit's.. now that's fun..

PS... I AM NOT A CERTIFIED MECHANIC.. I Have chosen to help those in need, in the past and must not be construed as being a certified technician.

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Porting your intake side will be detrimental on a turbo - something about air swirling and it needing a roughish surface. Looks like you have done a nice job however so lets hope you dont notice any performance reduction

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Porting your intake side will be detrimental on a turbo - something about air swirling and it needing a roughish surface. Looks like you have done a nice job however so lets hope you dont notice any performance reduction

Well Mike, You are partially correct. However, what you are referring to is the issues of the "skin effect" and surface tension of fuel against the port walls. This effect is present when you actually polish the intake. I use 60 grit sanding discs, which are universally accepted as the correct maximum polish level. The reason you don't want it to be polished is that there needs to be a small amount of turbulence at the surface in order for the fuel not to collect against the walls of the port. Now, that all being said.. did I need to port them.. no. However, the turbulence created within the highly inefficient intake plenum itself, will likely result in enough turbulence in the air to keep fuel properly atomized. The port work will likely only just increase the velocity near the valve so that low end response is slightly increased. Now.. the real issue is in porting the exhaust.. that should be thoroughly polished. However, once again we have a problem. The log-type manifold is highly inefficient and the exhaust porting and polishing won't likely result in any real noticeable increase in flow. Port Matching the exhaust will likely help a bit and will reduce hot spots on the exhaust side.  

 

What's the cost of billet pistons and your new rods mike ? Are you going to change / upgrade crank shells , bearings

Just to add those Goodrich blue and red hose connection pieces look cool as but don't forget they don't like heat and crack

 

Hi Alex. The Billet Pistons and Carillo rods were about to $6000 my cost. The crank shells will be upgraded with the same shells I used in the last build (the racing shells that Mike Sekinger used to sell). As for the blue and red hose connections.. They have been running on the previous car for 3 years and have never had even a hint of a problem. Including a 3 days straight on the dyno.. However, I will definitely keep my eye on them.

 

This entire system, as some of you may remember, has been tried, tested, tortured and tuned on the dyno before. As some of you may recall, I hit over 450 Wheel torque on the dyno (which maxed it out.. and we had to wait for the system to cool down to restart) on full stock internals  (minus bearings) and stock turbos. We dialed it back to 430 wheel torque and 430 wheel horsepower to ensure the longevity of the engine. I should add that those numbers were acquired with an ambient temperature of 37 degrees Celsius and the Intake Air Temperature on the dyno.. fully heat soaked, never exceeded 52 degrees Celsius. The system is extremely effective. The original project on Aerobats car was a 4 year event that resulted in one of the nuttiest cars I have ever driven.

 

I have actually re-done a lot of the standalone mapping so that it will be substantially more daily driveable. Previously.. it was soo bloody torque that it was actually hard to accelerate without spinning up both rears (295 wide tires and a quaiffe LSD) in first and second (anything over 1/3 throttle was tire smoke) and 3rd would spin up as well at any temperature under 20 degrees Celsius.

 

What I've actually done to the mapping is relate the boost level targets to throttle position. So, Unless you actually put it to the floor, you won't get full high boost. And.. as a little extra added protection, I have related the boost pressure to wheel slip %.. This will result in a basic form of traction control and make it so that I can pleasurably drive the car without constantly trying to regulate horsepower with my right foot.

 

Here's a quick video of the first build on Aerobat's car:

Modifying esprit's.. now that's fun..

PS... I AM NOT A CERTIFIED MECHANIC.. I Have chosen to help those in need, in the past and must not be construed as being a certified technician.

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Hi Alex, Actually, Mike doesn't sell them anymore. I am still working on where to get a set made. I think my machine shop has figured it out, but I need to double check. Once I have them, I may order a large amount and sell a few on here.

Modifying esprit's.. now that's fun..

PS... I AM NOT A CERTIFIED MECHANIC.. I Have chosen to help those in need, in the past and must not be construed as being a certified technician.

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Well.. There's one advantage to waiting on my engine to be finished.. I get to polish more stuff.. and tidy up the last little bits.
 
Here is the intercooler water pump.. installed and wired in:
3E4650D9-8BCE-4555-AC9A-3E7814C36481_zps

And here are the intercooler lines.. run under the chassis this time. Much easier that the alternative method of plumbing them through the chassis.
C4A21C76-3A7B-41F5-B5B4-8C6C05DE11B7_zps

Here's the muffler polished...
5B5826C8-ACF6-4071-B832-C8702AF0AD1C_zps

And the entire exhaust..
E61987FF-3A4C-4D22-87E3-25EBE0A98C17_zps

Modifying esprit's.. now that's fun..

PS... I AM NOT A CERTIFIED MECHANIC.. I Have chosen to help those in need, in the past and must not be construed as being a certified technician.

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Do you know what matey I'd change that exhaust it's a poor design that the exhaust gasses just buffet into each other and then it's pressure needed to push them out the tail pipes, for the sake of hp I'd change to a flowed muffler youve gone to the extent of porting and polishing but the airs being slowed here , I bought a stainless one it's on my build pics the cost was very good and the flow is brilliant . Also sounds amazing

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I always thought the canister was just for show on the 2002. However, I just shoved my boroscope into the hole.. I might be wrong about that. There doesn't appear to be any baffling.. but the route of the piping seems more complicated than I thought. However, as for exhaust gasses hitting each other -- I don't think that's a problem with a flat plane crank. The car sounds extremely good with the factory muffler and the decat pipes.. I'm not sure if I would want to change the sound.

Edited by Mark T-C

Modifying esprit's.. now that's fun..

PS... I AM NOT A CERTIFIED MECHANIC.. I Have chosen to help those in need, in the past and must not be construed as being a certified technician.

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Also.. I do have a Larini Exhaust as well... Maybe I will use that instead..

Modifying esprit's.. now that's fun..

PS... I AM NOT A CERTIFIED MECHANIC.. I Have chosen to help those in need, in the past and must not be construed as being a certified technician.

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I may defiantly need a set of the crank shells from mike too :)

What's the cost of them I hope there still available

..would be a set of 'standard' size OEM main- & rod shells be of any help  -or is your aim with a "special made" type just to be prepared for further power improvement plans later on ?

*********************************************************************

to name the things if I see them, that's what I call integrity..

*********************************************************************

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as for the question about

Differences in pre 2002 model version Lotus muffler layout (you will find my discription in here on other points in the forum)

 

..the *sports* exhaust does have two pipes.. running straight on the way, just bend in a slope to fit into the box. So those are just covered into a common box to house them.

 

..the *standard* V8 SE/GT -V8 muffler on the other hand uses a 3-camber design .. with those two pipes from the engine side entering from the sides on the box in the 2 outer chambers. The section there of every pipe is perforated, and there is some steel wool wrapped around the pipe. The two pipes from the engine side are short, in a way that both do not get into contact with each other -and the gasses flow against a baffle plate directly central in the middle chamber. The exhaust pipe that you can see left/right with the chromed or polished pipe tips,  this is nothing else than just independent perforated pipe system, that runs in the left/right outer chamber, in the baffle plate there positioned central in the middle chamber is a hole that offers a mix of flow from right & left pipe from the engine side, and also offers a direct path from left to right tailpipe end  -with other words you can fit a wire in the RH tailpipe that runs straight acros the middle chamber and into the opposite LH outer chamber and exits the LH tailpipe

 

I know this difference, as I cut off, 'repack' and re-weld my 1998 stock Lotus muffler every two years with cheapish stonewool & some steel wool to pass German MOT (so it is not as noisy as you would expect from an so old muffler..) http://www.imagenetz.de/img.php?file=85f8a57c87.jpg

 

http://www.imagenetz.de/f59842f95/V8-_918-muffler-layout.JPG.html

Edited by Günter

*********************************************************************

to name the things if I see them, that's what I call integrity..

*********************************************************************

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Thanks for the clarity on that Gunter!

 

Today I got a call from the machine shop with the heads and all I need is new guides and valve seals. So.. Ordered them up and it's just a waiting game for that now..

Modifying esprit's.. now that's fun..

PS... I AM NOT A CERTIFIED MECHANIC.. I Have chosen to help those in need, in the past and must not be construed as being a certified technician.

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Well.. Today I realized that I was not ready for the engine to arrive.. as I haven't cleaned all the parts, installed all the new gaskets and finished the port work I started.. So here's a few photos:
 
Here's the Oil Pan.. Cleaned up and all the silicone removed:
6BFA1935-60DA-466B-81DD-01B35308733D_zps
1D530EF3-C85F-4DCC-ADC3-4740C813F2EF_zps

And here is the rear oil seal and cover:
C2A5B7EB-A945-4E03-BA47-C8F937907C2A_zps
202F8CC0-1890-4A29-A3BA-B56998A22DA6_zps

And the front cover, cleaned up etc..
C4AC56A2-4EA6-4F5C-B99C-F85E1610EFAA_zps
7CF98DB6-5671-40A3-87D1-6A94B0F6D29A_zps


And.. I figured I'd polish the coolant connection manifold:
4254C77F-B813-404D-808B-7C5727EA8530_zps

I ported the intake pipes and throttle body parts...(basically gasket matching and ensuring perfect fitment.)
47CE928F-F9D2-4EB5-8A26-135C8FF06F89_zps
B8747C3A-3A9A-4896-9BAC-343A92A103DC_zps

In these shots, you can see how I made the ports actually match each other.. as they most certainly don't from factory.
F92B1A8D-FAE6-4DCA-B9C7-28AD1E8D18D1_zps
B512BBD1-3641-426D-87AB-9849EA2B2944_zps


Here's the intake ports on the plenum (plenum to intake runner side) polished up a bit:

98854D85-954F-494E-9A84-E2EB4C830FF0_zps


So.. now I am ready.. :)




 

  • Like 1

Modifying esprit's.. now that's fun..

PS... I AM NOT A CERTIFIED MECHANIC.. I Have chosen to help those in need, in the past and must not be construed as being a certified technician.

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Well.. On another note.. my 4x6" barrel intercoolers will only flow 540-560hp. So.. I may have to change my intercooler system slightly... but that likely won't be this year.. I don't think that I can handle the power potential of this engine build, even with the upgraded transmission and limited slip. So.. I will likely limit the torque to 500ft-lbs. And the horsepower will likely peak at 550hp. I just need a money factory to build the right transmission.. :)

Modifying esprit's.. now that's fun..

PS... I AM NOT A CERTIFIED MECHANIC.. I Have chosen to help those in need, in the past and must not be construed as being a certified technician.

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:lol:

 

Money factories would make many projects much easier!!

88 Esprit NA, 89 Esprit Turbo SE, Evora, Evora S, Evora IPS, Evora S IPS, Evora S IPS SR, Evora 400, Elise S1, Elise S1 111s, Evora GT410 Sport

Evora NA

For forum issues, please contact the Moderators. I will aim to respond to emails/PM's Mon-Fri 9-6 GMT. 

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Well I picked up most of my engine this weekend. I did as much assembly as I could, but I still need to re-fit my liners and a few other things. Here's some pics for everybody:

I had the Crankshaft properly balanced to itself (a flat plane crank does not require bob weights to balance) Here are the before and after specs:
17f25824-7100-4310-9179-1ed14e5386f8_zps
7e547c4f-66da-4c24-b053-b76cee8d035d_zps
 
Here's my Crankshaft.. Nitrided for better oil shedding and strength:
9D58631B-EDD7-4044-A8F7-3467AB486B35_zps

Here are my pretty Carillo rods:
174E2095-CD1C-45E0-8195-2F3580C36EE6_zps

And my custom Billet JE pistons with the previous weight and balanced weight listed on them:
11E015BA-9C78-40EA-A2BE-877400C5E372_zps

And here they are assembled with their respective rods:
D813F49C-F23F-48D9-A6A4-E2315202196A_zps

Here is the block after liner removal. The whole thing was quite dirty.
2873FD35-CDB4-450B-9F66-6CABC510113E_zps

We removed the liners and used a brass wire wheel to clean it all up:
BF9B1A95-3D26-4B94-943C-010E026FB3CE_zps

Here is the crankshaft installed. I was floored at how good the tolerances were. I ended up with 0.038mm clearance on every main bearing.
ADA1E324-F2CE-4DDF-A7B7-ACD37200C80B_zps

I also installed a new oil cooler line into the car. This was entertaining, as the upgraded hose is hydraulic hose and, is thus, very stiff. The previous line upgrade I had used transmitted oil pump noise through the chassis. So, in this case I used foam copper pipe wrap around the whole line. Hopefully it won't be noisy this time.. here it is sticking out of the back of the chassis.. it's the blue one.
E8021810-62A9-49FE-9D24-09AD4B9DFAC9_zps

And.. for the first time in nearly a year.. the interior is now back together:
087DB12D-C82B-4127-9E14-C6B633E3D5C3_zps
 

Modifying esprit's.. now that's fun..

PS... I AM NOT A CERTIFIED MECHANIC.. I Have chosen to help those in need, in the past and must not be construed as being a certified technician.

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I thought I would put up a couple of pictures of the racing clutch I had made:

Here's the sintered copper side:

9ADEBE95-586C-4F39-B06F-C8A3BB536D45_zps

And here's the Kevlar side:

A1DC9F44-C6C4-4172-92A8-23BF93325708_zps

:)

Modifying esprit's.. now that's fun..

PS... I AM NOT A CERTIFIED MECHANIC.. I Have chosen to help those in need, in the past and must not be construed as being a certified technician.

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Wow nice work mark is that a single plate clutch ? I need to replace my twin plate ap . It seems the friction plates are good but the middle pressure plate has broken springs and needs replacing , I think there only available in 1 unit not separate

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Wow nice work mark is that a single plate clutch ? I need to replace my twin plate ap . It seems the friction plates are good but the middle pressure plate has broken springs and needs replacing , I think there only available in 1 unit not separate

Sorry Alex.. That is actually just one of the two plates from the lotus clutch pack. I just had HR Clutch refinish the intermediate plate, main plate and the flywheel. Then I replaced the 3 slip bolts and installed it. It's pretty smooth engagement for such an aggressive clutch. I have had the occasional chatter and every once in a while.. I engage too quickly and stall.. but... for a race clutch.. it's damn nice.

Modifying esprit's.. now that's fun..

PS... I AM NOT A CERTIFIED MECHANIC.. I Have chosen to help those in need, in the past and must not be construed as being a certified technician.

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