project #099 -- Destination silly fast

[t70]

Please explain how it works and why what's the method of the tension .

 

I'm not sure what you are asking Alex? Are you referring to the oil squirters?

[Alex Carter]

I mean how do you tension properly I presume it's for the chain and snubers and intermediate shaft

[t70]

I mean how do you tension properly I presume it's for the chain and snubers and intermediate shaft

Good Question... The manual states "Finger pressure". So, put the plate on, use finger tension and then tighten the bolts... that's about it.

Now.. on to the problem at hand.. the piston oil squirters... Here is the process I went through today to design new squirters.

So here's the problem.. the piston oil squirter you see has been moved slightly to the right in order to no longer hit the piston skirt bridge directly.

I tried moving the squirters around, but it seemed I would either hit the rods, or hit the pistons. So.. I finally decided that I would have to completely re-design the system.. so here's the process:

First.. I cut out a piece of aluminum to make the base for the squirters.. You can see the factory system in the same picture.

Then.. I grabbed a brass vacuum fitting and machined it down until it was the same size as the hole..

Then. I cut out a large section in order to fit the 1/8" aluminum piping in.

Next.. We begin the process of bending the aluminum tubing to shape:

Then we cover the whole thing in clay... Why? Well, I can ensure that there is no interference with anything and I can also be sure that there is plenty of clearance everywhere.

My first design did not work.. as you can see in this picture, there is no clearance from the rod rotation and the piston oil squirter.

Here is another design that I tried.. you can see it all situated in the block with some of the clay around it. I did several fittings with different levels of clay and different piping layouts.

I spent quite a while re-designing and here is the final result.. it clears everything with no less than 0.1" of clearance. The only thing that is close now is the heads of the bots that retain the piston squirters themselves. I will remove some of the surface of the heads to ensure good clearance everywhere.

Now.. the final stage will be to get steel piping and duplicate what I have designed. Once that is done, I can finally install them and get this bad boy running!

[Simon350S]

What have others done to alleviate this problem?

[t70]

@simon

I don't believe anybody has ever had this problem. The pistons I had made are assymmetrical and that's what the main source of the problem is. The pistons have a high thrust and a low thrust side. The high thrust side is wider than the low thrust and therefore the one bank of pistons has the "skinny skirt" facing the oil squirters.

The factory system was designed to stay out of the way of the connecting rods. However, the factory rods are a standard design and are pretty much a square design. The Carillo rods are an H beam design and the squirters fit nicely between the "H" and will actually squirt more towards the centre of the piston as opposed to the edge as in the factory design.

I hope this explains everything?

[t70]

Well.. These oil squirters have been a bit of a challenge. It's a long boring story.. But basically, I still don't have them. I did make one with copper tubing, but the copper got too soft after soldering. I'm now waiting for some stainless (as we discovered that the original was stainless and not steel.)Here's a pic or 3 of the process:This is the original unit just after bending for a test fit<a href="http://s1153.photobucket.com/user/marktc34/media/garage%20projects/3BE29F70-545A-4E44-B8C1-A9A359BBA5A4_zpsgisddtvb.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p504/marktc34/garage%20projects/3BE29F70-545A-4E44-B8C1-A9A359BBA5A4_zpsgisddtvb.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 3BE29F70-545A-4E44-B8C1-A9A359BBA5A4_zpsgisddtvb.jpg"/></a>

This is it after being soldered on

<a href="http://s1153.photobucket.com/user/marktc34/media/garage%20projects/26ABE887-F415-40A4-9A1B-899C2FBEA543_zps9zzzwejz.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p504/marktc34/garage%20projects/26ABE887-F415-40A4-9A1B-899C2FBEA543_zps9zzzwejz.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 26ABE887-F415-40A4-9A1B-899C2FBEA543_zps9zzzwejz.jpg"/></a>

And this is it in the engine:

<a href="http://s1153.photobucket.com/user/marktc34/media/garage%20projects/01CE658D-E332-4A19-AF7D-7B8ED6E4C52B_zpsu6dqlzpo.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p504/marktc34/garage%20projects/01CE658D-E332-4A19-AF7D-7B8ED6E4C52B_zpsu6dqlzpo.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 01CE658D-E332-4A19-AF7D-7B8ED6E4C52B_zpsu6dqlzpo.jpg"/></a>

[Simon350S]

What's your squirt pattern and flow rate compared to original?

Too much flow and I guess you run the risk of reducing overall oil pressure.

Also what is the purpose of the squirters? Is it to cool the piston crown or keep the bores lubed? Only asking as you said the originals pointed more towards the bores.

Good work though, keep it up

[t70]

The squirt and flow pattern will be identical to stock. I forgot to show how i will achieve this.I built a tool to duplicate the factory took used to reduce the inside diameter of the factory tubes.Here it is:Two cast steel plates with dowels to keep them aligned.

The dowels are mushroomed slightly so that the two pieces won't come fully apart:

Then I drilled two different dimensional holes in the plates while they were pressed together.

Here are the holes exposed:

You can see in the above picture that the hole starts as a 1/8" hole and then sledges down to a smaller hole as it gets deeper.Here is the result. I realize mine has a longer "swedged down" section, but the diameters are the same

[t70]

Forgot to answer the question as to their purpose. They are there to cool the domes of the pistons. My design will effectively do the same thing as the original.

[Simon350S]

I'm very glad to hear that your squirt pressure and flow are as they should be

Keep up the good work

[Alex Carter]

Question. When you glued your liners in did you put the pistons in the liners before .or did you glue the liners in on there own

Also did you leave the heads off or bolts them on to allow the liner s and glue to set first I'm hearing so many stories about how to with this hylomar 3400

[t70]

Hi Alex. I did fully assemble the pistons into the liners first, using my "custom built" liner holder system. The reason I did this is to ensure quick assembly time for the liner sealant part. You must put the head on within an hour or something (I can't remember the exact time). The liner sealant needs to bond into all the small cracks etc.. And if you let it set first, you will have a "cushion" effect at the bottom of the liners and I suspect they will move about a bit after.. Though.. There is a lot of pressure on it.. So possibly not.

[t70]

Well, I finally got my stainless steel tubing. I have begun the process of building the new oil squirters. So Here's a kind of break down of how the process goes:

Here is an example of one of the steel plates:

Here is an example of one of the nipples that will go in the steel plates:

Then there's the bending tool I made (two drill bits in a chunk of steel)

Here I am bending the tubing:

Here is the mostly finished result:

So, basically, now I have to test fit it in the engine, rotate it over with clay all over the pieces and ensure that it does not have any interference points. I also need to crimp the ends of the tubing still.

[Bibs]

Very innovative!

[t70]

Well, since this has been an incredibly arduous task. I have decided to post the process of bending each one of the Tubing and its mating to the base:

First bend:

2nd bend:

Mate it to the nipple and base:

Apply Heat:

Add solder:

I only solder the tubing to the nipple at this point.

Now I mount it in the vice to make a bend in the tubing at the end of the plate.

Now the final bend:

Next, I drill through from the bottom of the nipple into the tubing. After that, I re-heat the plate and remove the tubing so that I can clear out any faro's or other scrap metal that ends up in the tubing from the drilling process. Then, I clean everything up again and re-solder the tubing to the whole plate and nipple.

The results look like this:

All Cleaned up:

The final look:

Next step is to install it in the engine and perform a rotating test. I apply some clay to the whole apparatus and install it in the engine. Then rotate it over to check clearances:

Basically, I have to do that part with every one of them until the clearances are sufficient. Soon.. SOON.. it will be complete.

[t70]

Here is the finished product:

[Bentzion]

How are things going Mark?

 

The job you did on the squirters is nothing short of stellar.  Lots of work for little parts!!!

[t70]

Thank you! I am just having the crank re-polished at the moment (putting the squirters in and out so many times resulted in a couple of minor scratches).

I am supposed to have the crank back this weekend. So I should be able to put the engine in.

[t70]

Well.. The engine is finally going in I figured I would start with a better picture of what the pison oil squirters look like: Here's a few shots of the install: More to come this weekend.. Should be running

Edited July 26, 2014 by Mark T-C

[M3S2k]

Phenomenal work Mark.  Can't wait to hear how she runs.  Haven't been on this forum in months now but always pop in to specifically check on your car!  Glad to hear you are nearing the finish line.

 

Steve

[t70]

Thanks Steven! I have actually commenced re-wiring the standalone. I had a couple of minor gremlins and I didn't feel like chasing my tail. The best solution to a wiring issue when 100's of wires are involved.. is to re-wire it. Or at least, that's how I feel. .. I'm almost finished it.

[cor]

Great progress, is going to be awesome!!

[Bentzion]

Come on now......We need to get an update (mostly me )

[t70]

Well guys.. I have finished the re-wiring and I have been driving the car for about a week and a half now. It will go back on the dyno on sept 22. I know I was originally going for huge power numbers, but I will be happy with 500hp at the wheels. Here's a few pics of her back together:<a href="http://s1153.photobucket.com/user/marktc34/media/garage%20projects/1C26510D-D253-4B86-A025-71D9C4AFDDDC_zpsutjfc4s1.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p504/marktc34/garage%20projects/1C26510D-D253-4B86-A025-71D9C4AFDDDC_zpsutjfc4s1.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 1C26510D-D253-4B86-A025-71D9C4AFDDDC_zpsutjfc4s1.jpg"/></a><a href="http://s1153.photobucket.com/user/marktc34/media/garage%20projects/C23C8C2C-4FB2-4295-A245-798194110642_zpsutub1ugs.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p504/marktc34/garage%20projects/C23C8C2C-4FB2-4295-A245-798194110642_zpsutub1ugs.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo C23C8C2C-4FB2-4295-A245-798194110642_zpsutub1ugs.jpg"/></a>And thank you to Alex carter for the clear deck covers:<a href="http://s1153.photobucket.com/user/marktc34/media/garage%20projects/0A876DA2-F2AA-49F7-A7D6-31F9A5853A98_zpspelrjzpz.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p504/marktc34/garage%20projects/0A876DA2-F2AA-49F7-A7D6-31F9A5853A98_zpspelrjzpz.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 0A876DA2-F2AA-49F7-A7D6-31F9A5853A98_zpspelrjzpz.jpg"/></a>

Edited September 8, 2014 by Mark T-C

[Bentzion]

Well the Dyno will confirm but how does it feel?

 

Can you elaborate a bit?