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jammy-pop

Clutch pack strip?

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Hi all,

I've removed my twin plate clutch to inspect/replace the friction plates and need to strip it. Am I missing something as it doesn't come apart easily? Is there anything securing the 3 locating pins which is preventing it from coming apart? The first friction plate next to the flywheel was near enough down to the rivets but I can't see any noticeable damage/scoring of the flywheel.

Thanks,

Steve.

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yes !

..there is a 'clamp' type spring/ring on every of the three stainless studs that interact with the orientation of the intermediate plate.

If you look around on the outside of the package, there is an small groove in the intermediate plate on the same position as where the pin is -inside there is this clamp-spring.

The manual says that you have to replace them for refit/reassemply of the package ..but if you act gentle, with a small screwdriver (so that the sharp clamp noses don't brake of) ..you can resuse them without notable problems later on (at least this is what I have done for years now...)

-but watch out for the orientation of the intermediate plate, and for the clamp-ring/spring in this groove --if you fit this upside down the clip does not work right !!

Edited by Günter

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Thanks for the advice Gunter, seems like you are very knowledgeable on the subject of gearboxes and clutch etc.

I'll be stripping it down this afternoon for a more detailed inspection.

Cheers,

Steve.

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Well took it to bits which was a struggle. The only bit that came off freely when I removed the clutch pack from the flywheel was the friction plate. The rest of the clutch pack had to be split with wedges etc as it wouldn't come to bits. No sign of any lube anywhere on the input shaft, which is probably why the clutch was dragging, couldn't get gears and wore it out.

Pics attached (I hope!)

Any thoughts guys?

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*on the flywheel you can undo it an give it to a machine-shop to reshape (flat out) the surface for some amount, but keep in mind that the step-hight must remain within specification, so whatever the amount is that gets taken of on the 'clutch' surface ..it has to get of from the mounting area on the flywheel to (so in simple words the cage has to follow the new position of the plates on the flywheel to .. for example 0.1mm on the 'overheated blueish area' and the same amount on the area where you see the holes for the cage.

*on the intermediate & pressure plate: well, this means the shop must be able to work around (within) the given space of the springs you can see there on the circumference there on both sides, but still it should be possible for them to take at least ...0.1mm or so off by one time to give it some more evenly surface..or first try to flat-out as good as possible by hand with the right grid (sand paper)

*..the minimum-dimension of every clutch friction plate was just notet within here, in an other story (use search option -in the rebuild storys) ..new is 7.1mm (around) ..and from the looks your's is still not on the end of its life ? ..as there was no contact betwen the rivets and the flywheel/pressure plate/intermediate plate surfaces, right .??

*as for the profile in the hub-center ..the low picture quality does not say much about it, but as long as the profile is not 'rounded' up to much, on either the input shaft or the hubs of those plates you could still reuse them and the shaft (the shaft is actualy an seperate item on the gearbox, so if there is something wrong you can fit replacements ..best is you call GTOracing for this stuff..)

*If you get your plates covered with new material, watch out for the right circumference, as some replacements can be done slightly to big, and stuck inbetween the legs on the cage (even so, there should be some stainless covers against any wear & tear on every leg, and those covers should have no marks or dents or dirt !)

*inspect the pilot-bearing (the small guide bearing in the rear end of the crankshaft) ..should be free of rust, so that it runs smooth and does not wobble ..should make no noise and it should still fell like there is grease actually in it (so no sound of marbles running in a can if you spinn it)

Edited by Günter

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Again, thanks for the info Gunter. I've been quoted £895 + VAT from GTO for a full clutch pack but going to ask them for a price for replacement friction disks only. Just bought a new release bearing from eBay for £100. Looking at some old receipts from the guy who had the car before me indicates a series of clutch issues with remanufactured parts being fitted. As the pressure plate was jammed into the cage I'm wary that fitting remanufactured friction plates may have been the issue ie too big. This may be the reason for excessive dust everywhere and potentially causing the whole thing to jam up due to contamination? I'm getting some brake cleaner today and will give everything a good clean and see if it's all nice and free then.

There are two sets of rivets, one set deeper than the other. The shallower ones are flush with the friction material so must be due for replacement. You can just about see it in the pictures.

I'll hunt around for a local engineering shop who can skim everything for me, including the mounting surfaces for the cage. Good bit of info that so thanks.

Cheers,

Steve.

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I've just re-built mine without any problems using the Helix friction disks,they are a direct replacement for the AP V8

They are available from ebay although the cheapest source is Mardi Gras Motorsport

Ps For the sake of 70p don't re-use the star clips.My last re-builder did and that was the problem,one had broke allowing the pack to slid at an angle causing clutch slip

Regards

Dave

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was the big release bearing damaged ??

Don't see the need to buy a new one if it runs smooth, as most times you just add new discs

With some work on the surfaces at least.

the minimum for each disc is 5.9mm ..as from workshopbook -the rivets are in opposite directions, as for having every second of them for one side of the material and the other rivet is there for the (organic) friction-material on the opposite side of this disc. So just measure that you have some dics/plates within specification.

GTO is maybe a company to ask, but you can get the AP-clutch discs as new parts too, for around 130-140GBP per item -for example from Steve (SJ-sportscars) ..and also in the net in some online-shops ..if you google the *cp-numbers* (printed on your discs)

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Well cleaned everything up to see what I'm left with and think I've found the root of problem. The intermediate plate sits in the cage lovely and floats about quite nicely. The pressure plate however is jamming up as it looks as if the tolerance is a bit out? You can see the marks from the wedges that I used on the cage to split it when I first took it to bits (it was a bitch to split) and even when all nice and clean it is still hanging up on this leg. This should all float when the release bearing operates but obviously hasn't been due to this problem. No wonder its been a pig to get into gear all this time!

I reckon if I filed 0.5mm from the plate to make it ever so slightly bigger the problem would be fixed. I've tried the plate in 3 different orientations and it snags on different legs each time, so it is the plate at fault and nothing to do with the cage or stainless steel shims. I still need to replace the friction plates as they are down to 6mm and are well worn. Also need to skim the flywheel/mounting area plus the pressure plates. New release bearing will also be fitted as there is plenty of wear in the old one.

Engine out next as need to do belts and fix a small crack in LH cylinder head :(

Will look at fuel tanks and anything else buried in there before putting back together, probably early next year as no rush to get in on the road just now!

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the position of the pressure-plate and intermediate in relation to the cage is marked by 'color' ..and should stay there (some basic 'balancing and tolerance' done by factory AP, I guess..) -

..check also that your cable ends on the gearbox have good joints, everything that should be greaed is greased, and that everything within the clutch & flywheel package that should be in tolerance is in tolerance .. more ou can not do -apart from fitting an totally different clutch & gearbox ;)

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