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Lenny's Body Removal (76 Elite ) - Projects & Restorations - The Lotus Forums Jump to content
The Nut

Lenny's Body Removal (76 Elite )

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Hi to all,

Ready to lift the body of the old chassis at last, question? whats the best way to do it, had a good look over the weekend and I think I'm going to leave the engine in and swap over the gearbox when I can have old and new chassis side by side. That means lifting high enough to wheel the chassis out from underneath the body, where's the best place to lift at the front end,. I've got a 2M length of 6X2 at the back end located at the end of the wheel arches, planning to lift with a jack in the centre just to the rear of the diff. Do i need to take out the gear lever or can it stay in.

Any advice greatly received.

Lotty ( 80 Eclat ) now in storage till spring., when I will need to do the head lining again.

John

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David,

 

Thanks for the link, had a good look, it answers all the questions I have so far, have sent Nick a mail to ask a few more.

It's one of the best history's I've seen since starting with Lottie six years ago. Hope to swap chassis before Christmas, give me something to do over the Christmas  break.

 

John

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Hi John.

 

I've been following Nick's site for quite a while and can't wait for him to complete it and update his website. My Dad used to own an Elite 504 in silver in the 80's and I've always wanted one. So I very much envy you on renovating such a great car. I'm sure I will take the plunge and own one myself in the near future.

 

Dave

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Hi,

 

I just pulled the frame on my elite this afternoon.

 

I lifted the body as high as I could with a floor jack then secured jack stands just in front of the rear wheel openings and just behind the front wheel openings.

 

As soon as I could fit a 6x6 in the rear wheel opening I put one across there and started jacking on that.  For the front I put another 6x6 behind the front wheel opening under the body.

 

The only hang up was that the engine didn't look like the valve cover would clear the body as it was lifted off.  I rotated it a little to clear the body. After that it was textbook. 

 

Go slow, keep everything level, don't get under the load, and you should have no problems.


I lifted the body to 30" even though 29" would clear the rear shock towers.

 

I was talking to a buddy of mine and we both agreed that the right way to do this was to use a lift.  With a real lift it would be a 1 hour operation including unbolting the frame body bolts.

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Ross,

Thanks for the reply, the back end is free and I have lifted it 150mm of the chassis using a sissor jack in the centre of a 6 X 3 timber wedged up against the rear wheels under the boot section of the body.

I spent saturday morning trying to split the steering column, gave up after three hours just soaked every thing in plus-gas, will try again later in the week. every thing else is disconnnected and ready to lift. Where did you lift the body at the front end? Do you need to take out the gear lever?

Any photo's of the job.

 

Thanks again, John

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I lifted the front end with 1' long pieces of wood under the rockers just behind the front wheel openings.

 

As far as the shifter, I wouldn't know as mine is an automatic. I am not a huge fan of automatics but I will probably keep it on this car as it seems to be working and is original to the car.

 

Be sure to take pictures.

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Ross

 

Just had a look at your post, nice to have so much space to work in, I like the colour of the car.

 

Managed to split the steering column and have removed everything else, forgot to drain down the tank, found out the hard way when I started to lift and petrol started to leak out. Had to stop and try to find something to drain into. Hope to get that done over the holidays. Wife not to happy at the moment.

 

Have a great Christmas

John

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Hope you had a enjoyable Christmas.  

 

When I lifted the body, I started lifting the body little by little until there was a loud snap.  Oh yeah, you have to disconnect the fuel line or it disconnects itself!

 

I was replacing it with a steel one anyway so I wasn't too upset.

 

This is the time of the year for giving thanks and two things I am thankful for are space and tools.  lifting a body or pulling an engine is a couple hours, where with tight space or worse a driveway it would be a long time and or a big complicated mess.  

 

Try again tomorrow.

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Hi to all,

 

Finally lifted the body yesterday, took it very slow and I forgot to disconnect the fuel line in the boot and I did snap off the top of the pump. Hope to pick up a camping mat for the rear member on Monday, can then put the body back on.

It would appear that the body has been off before as there is a welded repair to the side of the top cross member, photos show repair and the old chassis coming out and the new one going in. Hope to start on the engine swap around next week.

 

Happy new year to all, John

 

 

post-10113-0-53402200-1356815461.jpg

post-10113-0-65453300-1356815478.jpg

post-10113-0-99660800-1356815493.jpg

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Good work.

Are you going to do the brakes while you are in there?

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Ross,

 

Brakes done every thing I need to do, done, I hope.

Have started on the engine, new clutch and refurbished gearbox fitted to the engine over the holiday, spent this morning cleaning the carbs out and striping off the starter motor, alternator and brackets for cleaning/painting/de-rusting. Also cleaned the block off, oil all over the place as I tipped the engine over to clean it, it bent the dip stick so pulled it out and the oil ran out.

 

Camping mat obtained on Friday hope to get that cut up and stuck in-place during the week, can then think about dropping the body back on. I'm planning to put the body on first then put the engine / gearbox in. Then its start on the interior, most of which has been recovered already just needs popping back in

 

post-10113-0-90037700-1357507835.jpg

 

post-10113-0-15379800-1357507853.jpg

 

Best regards and HNY to all

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Looks good.

 

I'm going to try and put the frame back on with the engine in place.

 

 I had to tip the engine quite a but when pulling the frame off for clearance.  I think I will try and just tip the engine again when dropping the frame back on.

 

I didn't get the brakes done on mine because I am trying to find some brake shoes.  I don't know what they come off so I don't know what to order.  

 

Keep up the good work.

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Hi to All, Got the chassis ready over the weekend and started putting the engine back together. Have put sound absorbing sheeting ( black ) over the back bone of the chassis and a layer of camping ( blue ) mat over the sides. Have had a look under the floor and it would appear that at sometime or other there was some Jute carpet type insulation on the underside of the transmission tunnel, just in front of the gear lever, not to sure what to put in it's place at the moment, might lower body back and see how much room there is.  Any one got a suggestion  Photo's below.

 

 

post-10113-0-40711700-1358199661.jpgpost-10113-0-26032100-1358199681.jpg

 

Regards to all John

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Are you suing hammerite paint? Don't want to worry you, but I have read you should not use it on car parts (was going to do my land rover with it) as it is brittle and on a car it does not flex enough. it cracks and the water gets under it and rusts away.

 

Belive it or not the metal paint from Aldi is highly rated as it flexs.

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Hi to all,

Rear drums, shafts and belt pulleys Hammerite, springs and trailing arms powder coat, same as my Eclat, none has peeled of in the last 4 years, but point noted.

 

John

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I just put the body back on my elite. It was pretty straight forward. It took a whole because it was just me and I had to move back and forth between the jacks to lower them and readjust the jack stands.

Some replacement chassis don't have the mounting holes drilled. It sure would have been a lot easier if some of the holes could have been drilled later.

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Ross,

My chassis has no holes drilled, checked with Loutsbits and new chassis come undrilled, so looks as if I was lucky and got a new chassis when I brought the doner car. 

Spent this morning stripping the old chassis down, little things like the prop shaft, fual isolating valve etc. Also decided to renew the front brake lines as I've done every thing on the brakes bar them.

 

Some one on the forum asked me for the diff when I finished, can't remember who though, so if any forum member wants a diff let me know, will need to be picked up from Reigate in Surrey.

 

Regards to all

John

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Hi to all, Engine back in Thursday night, Friday morning spent mopping up all the gearbox oil that came out when engine at 45 degrees. Clutch operating arm has slipped of the thrust bearing while putting the engine back in just another small job to do. now to start the rebuild.

 

Regards to all John

 

 

post-10113-0-36399100-1361607968.jpg

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Hi to all,

Up date on Lenny ( 76 Elite), replacement engine now in, first engine ( above ) had no oil pressure,  second one has good oil pressure, but not running very well, lumpy, things wrong, points capacitor s/cct, back plate welded to points plate, I assume the car it came from had electronic ignition. All sorted, replaced petrol pump and now find that the fuel cut off valve has packed up.

Have started on putting the inside back in, rubbed down the roof for the new head lining, pain in the back literally. Have been given the ultimatum from the wife, Caroline, Lotty ( 80 Eclat) not allowed home till the other Eclats off the drive, currently being broken for spares for both cars, i was made an offer I could not refuse ( and didn't ). Caroline not happy.

Hope to be able to speed progress up now the good weathers here, its been below and close to freezing in the warehouse, we must be mad or sad as my son would say.

 

Regards to all,

John

Edited by The Nut

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Do you mean the inertial fuel shut off switch or the fuel shut off valve. 

 

If you need either you could have it for shipping from Plymouth MA USA, let me know.

 

I replaced the old inertial switch with a modern one and I am running a Facet fuel pump which doesn't siphon like the old solenoid / valve style did so I removed the fuel shut off valve as it weighed something.

 

Best,

 

Ross

 

 

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Hi to all,

Started to make progress, both bumpers off, repainted and back on the car. Started on the electrical issues over the weekend, half the back end lights not working, found a through joint in the main harness going back to the rear of the car, which has been sitting in the damp and has started to fail, has failed, have decided to change the harness as I have a spare and it will be a lot quicker than putting in ' mate n loc' connectors. Have tested all wires for continuity and every things working at the back of the car except the rear wiper, thats the next job.

Got the Sprint stripped down with Duncan's help, thanks for that, more useful parts!!!, got a good working fuel cut off valve off the sprite, thanks for the offer Ross.

 

Regards to all

John

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