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Alex Carter

heater pipes the truth!

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so after a lot of chin waging i bit the bullet and decided to have a look at the condition of my pipes front to back in the back bone .

as most have said you do not need to remove all the gear selector to remove the cable ties the pipes for the oil cooler and other fluids are no where near the two main feeds despite many people saying there all together .

so heres some pics and tips.

dash top off i did this to gain access to the stereo facia panel easier

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now remove the arm rest by un- doing the two screws inside the pocket.

this is the frame of the stereo after the surround is off

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dont forget the screw at the top of the pocket inside holding it to the back of the heater controls.

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after all this is off remove the gater around the gear stick will be a metal ring and six phillips screws .

then youll get to this plate

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undo the four phillips screws and lift up hard its wedged in.

then youll find a thicker plate with these 13 mm bolts in you may need to drill the body slightly as when these were originally joined the backbone wasnt in the fibreglass.

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this then reveals four 10mm lock nuts holding in the gear selector mine were undone and would explain my sloppy gear change .

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then because my engine is out the gear box is all disconnected obviously if yours isnt disconect the gear cables at the back so there free to move .

then pull up

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then once out of the way you have this hole.

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the oil and other feeds are at the bottom and the main heater pipes we want are at the top with the little flat edges closest to the camera

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then attention is to the rear where the two pipes go in to the back bone make sure all clips are undone.

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now to the front .under the arb look up and these two are the ones we need at the top.

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to get this out remove this passenger side radiator pipe and move a side

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then to this area above the main front chassis bar behind the fan.

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remove this and its pipes 2 x 10 mm bolts easy to reach and associated pipes around it .

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this will make the access easier to the top two we need .

this is a nightmare bit but these out the way help.

use penatrating fliud on the jubilee clips because there will be seized solid.

there are four clips two holding the pipes to the chassis and two on to the rubber radiator hoses.

once all clips are undone head to the back of the car and gentle pull the pipes backwards out they come .

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dont worry if the seals for the cassis come out too deal with them in a bit.

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mine were fine but i removed the rubbers and cleaned the ends with the wire wheel just in case.

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then heres the holes in the chassis .

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once youve cleaned replaced what ever. time to put back in.

first seat these ring seals into the chassis .

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then coat the pipes in washing up liquid and slowly fee into the holes its tight but the fit.

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also finding the holes the other end is easy too . only just remember the flat side of the pipe sits next to the gear selector and must be put back to allow clearence for the mechanism.

ok enjoy crap job took ages .

Edited by Alex Carter

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Alex, good to see that you could follow up my advice to undo the whole shifter ..as your shifter cables are actually undone on the rear (as for having no gearbox)  -as you see this makes it a lot easier to get in there.

 

So now for the misinterpretation:

 

the term 'heater pipes' meand the small -for the heater (inside the cabin !)  ..not for the engine cooling (radiator in front of the car) ..those big ones on top of the chassis internals are for the engine cooling, the small ones next to the hydraulic hoses are as mentioned in previous discussions for the heater system, and as you see the oil-cooler hydraulic hoses there are done with cable ties.

 

*********other point to mention for you:

 

..as you see you have an old car, with the older 'plastic bush & hook' shifter cables (as in the old four pots)  ..this can be an other reason for some rubbish gear selection, watch out for the condition of the bushes ..and if the grease used has caused reaction with the plastic-polymer  (later version use an simple universal joint, like used on the rear ..and with cableas fitted directly to the gearbox ..no translator system there on the end.

 

There also was an Lotus *service-bulletin* around, that the garage should change the way the diverter valve (the small vacuum actuated valve for heater function/ *recirculation on cool down*) is used. A copy of the revised wiring for the relay station and vacum solenoid should be in the archives over here  (I hope, or I have to take a picture from the book)

Edited by Günter

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you mean for the shifter, to keep dust & grease outside from the cabin ?  ..Brian can tell you something about the different sources/ about the modification process of the shifter and where it was sourced from separately.

 

 

Anyway -do you understand what I have said above on the 'heater pipes' vs. 'radiator pipes' ??

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Brian, the Esprit engineer ..do you not know the Hethel-staff around here in the forum ??

 

Brian_gt4

 

http://www.thelotusforums.com/forums/user/412-brian-gt4/

Edited by Günter

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The gaiters are available from Lotus, around £35 iirc.

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Lovely I shall order one also there are blocks of foam between the two metal plates almost look like cut offs wedged in are these to stop panel vibration or heat from the pipes entering the cabin .on hot day just where the pocket and gear selector are I get alot of heat coming up through. Is there a cure

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I cleaned my heater pipes in situ. I got a 3 Meter length of 1/4" steel bar and cut a slot about 25mm on the the end with a hack saw. I inserted a bit of emery cloth and wrapped it around until it was a nice fit in the small tubes. I then used it to clean all the built up deposits by  turning and shoving. When done I used the airline to blow them out. I could see through them and all was nice and shiny inside again.

 

Buddsy

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Scott, you have done the heater pipes (with a 1/4 inch bar like a chimney sweep ?)

-so now the question: what happend to the inside of the radiator pipes and the rest of the water system in your car ? 

 

..that is why I often say it is even more easy just to drain the whole system, and fill it up for a day or two with a nice mixture of citric-acid & water  ..it reacts with those deposits of rust & sludge and lime build up there, in case you have not used the appropriate concentrations of antifreeze over a long time in the cars life   ..and with this way you would not harm the surface of the components so much with harsh mechanical tools (for example the natural surface of the aluminium after fabrication -there in your pipes inside the chassis)

 

ohh, and Alex -the foam around the shifter plate is for sound insulation ..as the chassis with its boxed shape reacts like 'drum' in some case  --you can test it if you drive your car with the shifter & supporting plate in place -but without all the covers/foam ..it is noisy and sounds the same as if a window is not cloesd right way

Edited by Günter

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Scott, you have done the heater pipes (with a 1/4 inch bar like a chimney sweep ?)

-so now the question: what happend to the inside of the radiator pipes and the rest of the water system in your car ? 

 

Hi Gunter. Every pipe just about was replaced during my rebuild. I had my rad re-cored the only bit I wasn't able to clean or replace was the heater matrix. Because of the deposits I saw everywhere in the water system I decided to move away from putting water back into the coolant system and went for the Evans waterless coolant. How it will work out only time will tell.

 

Buddsy

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*Evans waterless* -hmm...does someone over here know what's the base of this 'mysterious' substance ?

Some kind of synthetic-oil with special viscosity in a temperature range from -40 to 180°C , maybe..

Edited by Günter

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i like his point there: http://www.thelotusforums.com/forums/topic/53963-evans-waterless-cooling/#entry432613 ..so for Alex and his repairs on the car it would be a good option to choose

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