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Feijucho

Clutch removing manual for SE.

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   Please, anyone have a complet manual to remove and mount a new clutch in Esprit SE ?

I have seen too much posts with infos (Clutch, gearbox, driveshafts...), but no "all in one" manual, step by step.

I must do the job at home, because here in Spain there are not official dealer.

 

           Thanks for the answers,

 

                          Feijucho

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   Thanks for the answer, Bibs. Do you think that is necessary dismount the transmissions to make the work or is it possible without this job?

 

        Regards,

 

                          Feijucho.

Edited by Feijucho

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The gearbox must be moved back at least several inches to change the clutch, so there's plenty to dismantle.  I've heard it's been done without removing the driveshafts, but I always remove them.  Separate them at the joints instead of removing the rollpins.

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this is how i did the s4. this is from memory and you do at your own risk. take off rear exhaust box disconnect vac lines and headder tank & relays etc unbolt boot floor disconnect vac lines and headder tank etc disconnect the gear cables and actuator take the exhaust cradle off remove cross member remove drive shaft pins disconnect flywheel sensor ( i replaced mine as i could not get it out with it destroying it as its held in with locktight unbolt slave cylinder undo gearbox to engine. undo rear gearbox mounts pull gearbox back (its quite big and fairly heavy, make sure you dont snap one of the rear gearbox mounts) remove bearing. (may be worth replacing the spring as these are crap and you may as well do it now they only a few £'s) i also had the car on axle stands, if you think about changing the oil in the gearbox theres a good chance that the that the square head will shear off. may also be worth doing teh clutch as its apart. then refit it all hope this helps

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Travis, I see you had the head removed there.  Is that possible with the turbo attached?

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Yep, no problem at all to remove the head while leaving the turbo attached...  However you will need to remove the exhaust manifold... which is what supports the turbo.  ;)  But you can remove the head and manifold without moving the turbo from the car...!

 

1010003.JPG

If you leave the exhaust connected, then that will rest on the chassis, thereby holding up the turbo;)

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Whoops - sorry, didn't explain myself at all there! I meant is it possible to move the gearbox back, without detaching the driveshafts, with the turbo in place?

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Didn't we try that, I'm sure the bellhousing doesn't get past?

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It works if driveshafts are disconnected, but never tried it with them - suspect they might not allow the necessary bellhousing rotation to clear the turbo?

Might try it next time I do one.

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I have removed the trans with engine and turbo in place, axles removed though. I've removed the engine and trans together. I've installed them again separately. And I've removed the engine and reinstalled it without removing the trans, axles, and cross brace...

It might be possible.

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...but unlikely with drive-shafts in place as you have to spin the box slightly to allow the bell housing to pass the turbo...as Gary said just split the drive-shafts keeping the yoke attached to the box but DO cover the spider's so they don't get covered in crap

Edited by internets

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Next time I'm gonna try one with the driveshafts attached.  I think it'll snag the turbo but it'll be an interesting exercise if nothing else...

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Doing mine taking out tomorrow putting back next weekend, will let you know how I get on, was looking up as I am hoping to leave the drive shafts in

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Clutch 2.2 na

Remove boot floor passing wiring and relays through the small hole at the back, note pos and neg on coil

Remove exhaust,

1hour

Remove exhaust bracket and cross member, jack the car up a little to remove theses bolts

Return car to floor

Remove the gear selecting cables disconnect the gear link age

Remove both brackets that mount gearbox to chassis

Remove starter, just undo the 2 nut and bolts and push back

Remove bell housing bolts

Place a jack under the engine ( use a piece of wood to spread the Wieght )

2 hours on the drive to get the box out, having not donevany work on a lotus before,with basic sockets spanners and a 6 mm Allen key and clutch alignment tool

It is probably possible to do even less but I would not recommend it, removing the gear links protects them from damage and removing the cross member allows more room, I did not disconnect the battery, but that's your choice.

Might be a little tricky to line up the clutch, but if you have done any clutch before then its really not hard, and by modern standards its easy

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If you remove the drive-shafts in the "Approved" method then you need to drain the oil.

If you use the "Sparky" method you don't, but what we need is a step by step how to on disconnecting the drive shafts from the man himself.

If you do elect to use the traditional method, and remove the roll-pins get a decent set of PIN PUNCHES, or you will get in trouble, also order a new set with the clutch.

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Not rocket science.

 

1. Disconnect suspension (top AND bottom easier).

 

2. Release inboard clip, slide gaiter off joint.

 

3. Mark spider/yoke for reassembly.

 

4. Pull hub outwards to release shaft (catch it on the way down and be prepared for some grease).

 

5. Have a brew.

 

In true Haynes style, refitting is a reverse of the removal, however brew is optional. 

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You're 'avin a giraffe!  It's all over and done with so fast, few sports photographers would catch it.

 

Which bit would you want to see?  Me taking the boot clip off, me pulling the boot back, or me pulling the driveshaft out?  They ain't gonna be Pulitzer winners...

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Pictures of 2,3 and 4 as per your prior post would be good. 5 is OK, but no tea bags, the work of satin and the Americans.

Seriously my unwillingness to disconnect your way was based on lack of knowledge, and I would have done it wrong + the clips on mine look ex factory so are crimped, and I would like to avoid the use of jubilee clips, so what to use to replace them with ?

Edited by Roger the Dodger

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Jubilee clips, but the right ones.  Never had one fail or leak.

 

Next time I do one, I'll do photies!


Whoops - although I have used jubilee clips on occasion, what I meant to say was cable ties.  Big man-sized ones.

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Thanks for the input, I've actually got some long industrial strength cable ties !

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