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jammy-pop

Red Paint

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Hi guys,

 

Does anyone know where I can get the orangy red paint that the cam covers and plenum are coated with please? Will be nice to give it a freah coat before I put the engine back.

 

Cheers,

 

Steve.

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Upgrade today to remove Google ads and support TLF.

If you want a good match then I think you're stuck with the firm near Lotus at Potash lane.

If you can handle it being a bit more red then red crinkle paint will do it.

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Thanks Andy. Any idea of the name of this place near Lotus? I want to keep it looking original.

 

Steve.

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Did my cam covers with VHT wrinkle finish red and was a good match and easy to do . Bought from frosts www.frost.co.uk

£9.70 a can

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Agree. VHT Red

 

Process:
1. Wash clean raw aluminum SC
2. Apply degreasing dewaxing Prep Spray (VHT SP44), srub and reapply
3. Apply Self Etching Primer (Rust-oleum 249322), 2 coats let dry 30 min.
4. Apply HT Wrinkle Paint (VHT SP204 Red Wrinkle), 3 coats 5 min between
5. Dry 2 hrs, run car to heat up (prep says bake at 200F for 2 hrs)
6. Let sit 48 hrs

post-13533-0-52481100-1361065628.jpg

post-13533-0-08396600-1361065655.jpg

Edited by Julian73

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Looks very nice Julian!

 

Mine is not a crinkly finish, its more smooth.

 

 

post-12673-0-05819400-1361084223.jpg

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jammy, it once was relatively 'crinkly' even the factory one

..but over time (and under constant heat of the engine) ..especially if someone gets in contact on and on with his hands/ a towel or anything else to clean or wipe something of from the surface   ..it smoothens out.

 

Had the same effect with my original coating (slightly orange/light red by the way)

 

-and even the applied 'wrinkle paint' (one cheapish from a spray can, that wasn't really a color match to the original paint-code and looked more like Mitsubishi-EVO under daylight)   ..it now is mostly flat again.  Around 3 years after engine work project

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Red VHT wrinkle paint and primer arrived. Parts being stripped tomorrow and will then paint. Says to do it between 16 and 35 degC which may be a problem this time of year. Looks like the house will be smelling of paint again then!

Pictures to follow,

Steve.

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All painted and polished. Looking forward to getting it back on the car along with the cam covers!

 

post-12673-0-38216500-1364057674.jpg

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Looking really good Jammy boi! Looking forward to seeing that all fixed up in the summer!

 

Buddsy

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Hopefully it's the light that did that and it's not pink.

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Mikeal, reminds me on my picture in here ..as Mike Sekinger and you guys also thought it is 'pink' :D  

 

..this aftermarket-red turns out more dark red (just as the engine pictures of the Mitsubishi-EVO range in magazines) under real light and after some heat cycles. Think it is the same product line that I have got once there

 

 

#######

What I want to know Jammy, have you really reshaped/polished the whole cast of the plenum surface, prior to this application ?

 

..I've found some odd maching differences and grinding marks on the blank plenum after the original paint was removed with the soda, but was not worried about as the fresh applied aftermarket 'crinkle paint' was equal looking all the way   

 

..now after some years you can see the fabrication marks and differences in the ground even more :(

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Cheers guys and no, it's not pink! Maybe looks it a bit pink on the pictures but was taken with my phone. I'll get some better pictures when it's fitted again.

 

Gunter, I didn't take it back to bare metal, as it didn't say to do so on the instructions on the can. The original paint was still good so just gave it a good 'key' before applying. Lets hope it lasts!

 

Thanks,

 

Steve.

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mine was flaky all around, so it was clear that I need to undo the original remains 

 

..bud as only soda was possible for the blast material it was clear that there was no chance to give the alloy surface an overal identical new structure (like you would have after traditional sandblast or if glass/steel balls are used)

 

good luck, and from what I cvan say at least two years or so it will look good :D

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with all the the cam-caps down to 8Nm ?

 

..wasn't it just today were you asked on the specification   :D

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Finger tight just now! Will tighten tomorrow but torque wrench won't go that low! I'll use my calibrated arm instead :)

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as long as you are cautious on the head covers as well, all will be ok

 

..as said, use some thread-locker glue (loctite) there on the cam caps, so that you not need to clamp them down to much

 

...and on the thread inside those caps, those who hold the head-covers there is not much what holds them on, as the original screws with the rubber cap are very short (to prevent contact with  the cam, of course).

You can insert helicoil or any other thread inserts if one fails there.

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