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Today I wanted to use the Evora for the first time after several winter weeks. I had lent my battery charger to someone else so it was flat. So flat that I couldn't even open the trunk anymore with the remote.

 

So I opened the trunk with the emergency cable in the back. Started the car with starter cables and when driving away immediately noticed there was a problem. Engine warning lights lid on dashboard, IPS stuck in 3rd gear, and couldn't even rev it above 1500 rpm... Called the dealer and he told me this could be because the battery had gone fully flat and it may need some more charging...

 

Put the Evora back on the driveway, closed the trunk because I had to leave.

 

Couple of hours later I wanted to give it a second try, but now the trunk no longer opens using the cable in the back. Pulled it very hard, no use...

 

So now I have a car with a completely dead battery and no way to open the trunk.

 

Bought another charger and connected it to the cigarette lighter in the front, but that doesn't seem to be connected to the battery circuit as it's not charging...

 

Obviously this is not an easy car to tow away, as it is an automatic stuck in gear. And then again, how would the dealer be able to open the trunk?

 

How reliable is the cable to open the trunk? Anybody been in a similar situation before?

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Starter cables you used were the ones with surge protection built into them?

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The interior 12V socket is only live when the ignition is on. Try leaving the ignition on while you get enough charge into it to open the trunk with the fob, assuming you can keep the car secure with the ignition on.

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By turning the ignition on, you are simply opening the circuit between the 12v socket and the battery circuit. That should allow the charger to get some charge into the battery.

 

Surge protection jumper leads are recognisable generally by a box that may be in one or both cables. (below)

 

PROJ1612V.jpg

 

Reason I asked about the jumper cables is some computers in cars these days do not like any sort of surge when jump starting.

 

Don't know why your emergency cable would not work anymore though?

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Hi Ramjet - no surge protection on my starter cables.

 

I've been trying to charge for more then an hour now with the ignition on, but my charger stays in "error" mode and does not start charging. The manual of the charger I have says the error mode means either bad polarity or not connected.

 

The ignition key has two steps. I have it in the second step. Don't know whether that makes any difference?

 

Would connecting a battery booster to the cigarette lighter help better?

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Are you able to reverse the cables that attach to your accessory that you plug into the 12v accessory socket? Or test the socket with a multimeter. While the battery will not do anything for the car, there may be enough residual voltage to let you know which way the socket is wired. It may be possible that the wires on the 12v accessory are reversed. It's a long shot, but you never know.

 

The first time I tried using an in-car charger for my Tom Tom, it blew up the charger as the wires were reversed on my cigarette lighter.

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If I were you I'd be concentrating on getting into the boot and fitting a new battery. Batteries often can't recover from a total drain without a complex charger and a new battery is more than likely needed anyway.

Have you tried using another person to 'encourage' the boot to open while the other works the cable release?

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Or you could just try what Bibs said Tom. :getmecoat:

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I've been trying working the trunk lid while pulling the cable as well with the brother in law...

Read somewhere you have to pull the cable fairly hard and trust me I think I've been pulling it even too hard.

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Can you access the starter on the engine at all?

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I know nothing much about the Evora, but does it have a deadlock facility?  Could it be that the driver's door is open, but the central locking hasn't turned over fully to release passenger door/trunk?  Clutching at straws...

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Squadra,

Have you tried pushing down on the boot lid while your brother in law pulls the cable, then pull up to release. I know it sounds counter intuitive but the boot seal could be putting pressure on the latch.

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Following a try-to-recharge approach, there is always power at the interior light. Not tried it but almost certainly it will just fiddle out of its recess to expose the terminals.  That will allow you to check polarity of power with a meter (unless there is absolutely none) and get at a live circuit to connect the charger. (Then ignition switch irrelevant.)

 

Getting the polarity right is important. If totally dead and cannot measure, surely someone here can say, or will check it. The interior light fuse will be low current so a trickle charge will be best unless you want to locate and put in a higher rated one.

 

Edited by mdavies

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Can you access the starter on the engine at all?

Hi Ramjet. What do you mean? I have no access to the engine at all.

Thanks for all the tips guys. I will continue troubleshooting tomorrow based on your input!

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The last time I saw a positive-earth car, I was about 4 years old.  I think it's safe to assume it's negative-earth.

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Is putting the kind of current required to charge a flat battery down the wires which supply an internal light safe?

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I wouldn't consider doing it.

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From underneath Tom?

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Is putting the kind of current required to charge a flat battery down the wires which supply an internal light safe?

 

No - re a normal charge, that's why I said trickle. E.g easily 24 hours to get anywhere. And the light protection fuse would ensure current not excessive. (Needs right sort (controllable) of charger.)

 

My thought to increase the fuse rating was not meant to imply "hugely", I should have made clear, and yes, fuse best left standard. But depending on the wiring system and whether the wiring/fuse feeds other things I would expect there to be at least a 2:1 safety margin on the wiring current capacity over the fuse rating. If charging actually commenced I would be keeping a very close watch (feel!) on things for several hours.  Yes, tricky making suggestions without knowing background and experience of recipient - no offence Squadra!

 

Not trying to get full recharge, just a little life to work the boot release.

Edited by mdavies

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I found out the hard way that most modern chargers (those with reverse polarity protection) won't charge a totally flat battery. The only solution in that situation is to put some jump leads on the battery and leave it a while (20 mins) to get some charge in the battery and then try the charger. Not much help in your situation!

I fiddled for some time with my emergency boot release to get it to work. I could feel the latch opening via the cable but nothing was happening. Eventually with some pushing and wiggling of the boot lid (with suitable swearing) the release worked.

Good luck.

Peter

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Thank you so much guys for all your suggestions and tips.

 

Status update after an afternoon of trying to get some life in the Evora:

- Multimeter test on cigarette lighters and interior light: nothing

- Had someone come over with a booster and connected that on the cigarette lighter: nothing

- If you plugged in my battery charger in the cigarette lighter at the front and the booster in the cig lighter at the back the vent of the heater started working! No other electronics working though, and battery not charging....

- Fiddled around with the emergency boot release and the boot lid to no avail...

 

So in the end, this is what happened:

photo.JPG

 

Luckily we found a company that could properly tow away a stuck automatic gearbox car.

 

Let's now hope the dealer can sort this out...

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:(

 

Let's hope it gets sorted

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When it's back it would be useful if you could investigate and throw any light on why your emergency pull cord failed. I've had a flat battery too and was very glad my cord worked ok. It might be friction somewhere, e.g from things stuffed into the sides of the boot. (Well I have!)

 

If I can see a simpler more direct routing for the pull cord on mine, a small mod could be worth it. E.g another cord fixed through a small hole in the undertray or even through the panel behind the number plate.

 

When I had to use my cord (left a couple of days in the garage with the boot open, saw and stupidly closed the lid before thinking) I was surprised how very hard I had to pull the cord. It can't be a nice easy route for the cord.

Edited by mdavies

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